Tasting notes from the white Burgs I’ve had in the past year. (threw in some winter and spring notes as well)
2022 Sauzet Hautes Cotes de Beaune Blanc Jardin du Calvair: Beautiful nose of floral and citrus. On the palate, there’s white fruit with a subtle hint of oak (15% new), and more importantly, racy, refreshing acidity. This is a really nice wine, especially at this price point.
2022 Bachelet-Monnot Chassagne-Montrachet: Hint of lime zest on the nose with a fresh and lively palate of citrus and minerals. While there’s a bit of density and richness to the palate, there’s mouth-watering acidity, good cut, minerality, and freshness. The oak is well-integrated (25% new), which I often don’t find to be the case with young village-level white Burgundies.
2022 Sauzet Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Sous le Puits: From purchased fruit. A little more textured from the oak with a hint of vanilla on the palate (33% new). However, it has very tart, pointed acidity that prevents the palate from feeling ponderous and heavy.
2022 Latour-Giraud Meursault 1er Cru Genevrieres: Broader, more textured, with a heavier oak presence (25% new) than the Sauzets and Bachelet-Monnot. However, while a bit ripe and lush, veering towards yellow fruit, it is still fresh and lively with good acidity that keeps the wine light on its feet.
2022 Henri Boillot Meursault 1er Cru Richemont: Rich, ripe, yellow fruit on the palate. Very textured and buttery. On the palate, you can feel the oak tannins coating the throat. This needs a lot more time to integrate the oak (35% new oak).
2022 Henri Boillot Corton-Charlemagne: BIg, bold, ripe and yellow-fruited. However, the oak here is less noticeable than with the Richemont (despite being 50% new oak) and the oak tannins don’t feel as grippy or aggressive. An interesting wine that needs many more years to integrate fully.
2020 Armand Heitz Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières: I really enjoyed this. Had great depth and intensity, linear and extremely focused (I’m guessing this is picked on the earlier side). Initially, oak was not overly obtrusive, but the wine still had great texture on the palate. With time in the glass, the oak/vanilla/gloss became more noticeable. However, not over-the-top and I imagine with time in the cellar, this will develop nicely. Also corked with DIAM.
2012 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnières: I was told this is considered a “baby Batard” because the lieu-dit borders Batard-Montrachet. It definitely has more breadth, body, and intensity than I get from a normal village white Burgundy. The oak sticks out a little bit, but is not too offensive, and it does provide some cream and texture to the wine. Quite good and no sign of premox at all.
2021 Vincent Girardin Puligny Montrachet Villages Vielles Vignes: Some lemon zest and wet minerals on the nose. There’s some oak polish on the palate, but it is not overly buttery. A crisp wine that has a tart, acidic finish. The winemaker, Eric Germain, did some nice work here.
2022 Joseph Colin Puligny-Montrachet Le Trezin: Former winemaker at Marc Colin before starting off on his own (also brother of Pierre-Yves Colin). Slightly reductive nose, the palate is quite linear with a subtle hint of creaminess and perhaps oak (aged ⅔ in older 500L barrels and ⅓ in older 228L barrels). Palate is white-fruited, high-toned, and fresh. A really lovely village white Burgundy that is not overripe or overdone.
2022 Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet: The grandson of Henri Boillot and Etienne Sauzet, and a winemaker at Henri Boillot and then Olivier Leflaive before starting on his own (current holdings come from the Henri Boillot and Etienne Sauzet estates). Textural, this feels rounder than Joseph Colin or Vincent Girardin, with a rich palate and yellow fruit. Oak is not over-the-top here, but this is ripe. Emanates strong Henri Boillot vibes.
2022 Jean-Marc Boillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Referts: This has considerable concentration on the mid-palate, and the oak is very present, making the wine a touch buttery. Not as sharp or incisive as the earlier-picking wines from Joseph Colin. A rounder and richer style – again, a strong kinship with the Henri Boillot style.
2022 Alvina Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chalumeaux: Made by the granddaughter of Paul Pernot and vines from his estate. This wine is sharp, fresh, with good acidity and a tangy finish. White fruited with a slight creaminess to it (no new oak barrels are used here). Quite good.
2022 Alvina Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru La Garenne: The acidity here is strong, almost a little too sour, but there’s enough stuffing here to balance it, especially with a full mid-palate of white fruit and mineral, tailing off into a nice, tart, long finish.
2017 Henri Germain et Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot Les Fairendes: Opened up with notes of apple and pear on the nose. The palate is white fruit, lean, mineral-forward, with a hint of well-integrated oak on the palate (a touch of glossiness, a little bit of vanilla). Very polished, precise, and seamless on the palate. Rather generous and open at this moment; drinking quite nicely (and the finish is long and impressive).
2017 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières: Upon opening, this is impressively stuffed, concentrated, and intense with tons of minerality (notes of wet rocks), the oak already well-integrated, adding just a touch of gloss texturally. But, the wine starts shutting down soon after opening, giving nothing on the nose but bruised apple with the palate being very shy and closed up. This probably needs a couple more years in bottle to unclench and open up. It’s impressive though, but drinking this now felt like infanticide. On Day 2, however, the nose opens up quite a bit. I’m getting grapefruit zest, mint, fresh herbs on the nose. The palate is still primarily wet rocks with a noticeable veneer of vanillin, but the oak is still well-integrated and I get much more citrus and herbs on the palate. Like the complexity of an aged Riesling without the raciness of the acidity; instead you get a polished, rounder, very elegant texture (though the acidity is still mouth-watering and ample).
2021 Duc de Magenta (Jadot) Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de Garennes: Crisp and refreshing, with white and green fruit on the palate. Not rich or opulent, no pronounced oakiness, and not particularly creamy. A really nice, linear wine with plenty of depth without any makeup.
2021 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne-Aligoté Les Auvonnes au Pépé: Lean, focused, and linear. Much more mineral-driven than the Charmes aux Pretres, with citrus fruit notes and racy acid, it finishes with this trademark salinity that I find in all of the '21 Patailles whites I’ve had.
2021 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne-Aligoté La Charme aux Prêtres: This felt rather rich and broad compared to the other '21 Patailles aligotes, with a prominent, nearly yellow fruit profile on the palate, but retaining plenty of cut and minerality, finishing with a long saline finish. This salty quality was a common trait with all of the Patailles white wines (chardonnay and aligote).
2021 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Chardonnay Rose Marsannay: Deeply mineral with restrained white fruit, intense acidity, hugely energetic on the palate, with a long, salty finish. Very delicious.
2021 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru: This was stunning. While it has excellent acidity and energy, this is more powerful and a touch riper than PYCM’s St. Aubins, marrying the lean energy and drive of those wines with greater amplitude and weight. Intense, yet delicate on the palate, with terrific tension.
2021 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Champlots Blanc: I have found the '16 vintage of this wine to be too round and oily for my tastes. While this is still relatively broad-shouldered and fat, when compared to the En Remilly, the thrust of the acidity balances the oily texture to give the wine a little more cut and definition. Good (though outclassed by the '21 En Remilly).
2021 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly Blanc: Linear and focused with white orchard fruit, a flinty minerality, and terrific energy on cut on the palate, and a hit of salinity on the palate. Lean, yet intense.
2019 Raveneau Petit Chablis: This tastes like a very well made Bourgogne Blanc from an excellent producer based in Puligny. Good depth and breadth on the palate, perhaps coated with a thin layer of vanilla, but not particularly crisp or saline in any way. Someone commented that you could really taste the producer signature in the wine, and I would agree. If you are looking for Raveneau, you will definitely find it here. If you are looking for Chablis, however…
2011 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis 1er Cru La Forest: This seemed pretty advanced. You could pick up some stoniness and good acidity underneath the blanket of sherried nuttiness, but I have a sense that this was suffering from early-stage premox. Still drinkable.
2022 Paul Pernot Batard-Montrachet: A complete wine – taking all the best components of the ‘22 1er Crus and blending them together: expressive aromatics, wonderful, balanced palate of ripe white fruit tethered together with a firm mineral spine, racy acidity, textured (but not buttery), and a long, long finish. Oak is already well-integrated; this seems shockingly open (I’m guessing this was decanted). Really delicious, but, I’m guessing it will shut down and need considerable time in the cellar to fully meet its potential.
2022 Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatieres: I remember this being pretty spectacular up front on the palate and nose: floral notes, white fruits and minerals, racy, and delicious. But, it finishes surprisingly short and just drops off.
2022 Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champs Canet: This seemed a little ripe and simple at this point. Veering close towards yellow fruit on the palate, though there is sufficient minerality and acidity to make this interesting. Finish is persistent. Perhaps it just needs more time.
2022 Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garennes: This was nice and a clear step up from the village Puligny. Has raciness, greener fruit, herbs, and complexity. Not as dense or ripe as the other 1er Crus; more understated, but the freshness and integrated oak was quite nice. Apparently from the same parcel as the Jadot Duc de Magenta.
2022 Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet: I remember the oak and butteriness sticking out quite a bit. Not blown away.
2022 Paul Pernot Bourgogne Cote d’Or Chardonnay: A simple, straightforward, refreshing white wine that is very drinkable and not very oaky. Very enjoyable.