As I said above there are some micro-climates within areas that Grenache can do well. I find there are rarely absolutes in viticulture.
For pure Grenache wines it has to be sandy or rocky soil with the right temp/diurnal shift to keep sugars down while ripeness is acheived late into season.
Not Grenache, but remember listening to a call about some PV on Red Mountain that was going to be picked that day at 32 brix even though it wasn’t phenolically ripe but owner wanted it done and if winery didn’t want it he already had a buyer. Wi ery passed.
I happened to drink a 2019 Block Wines Bouchey Vineyard Grenache last night. It had a bunch of licoricey, bramble iron undertones, that I would have guessed Rocks of MF if the label did not say Yak Valley. I have long enjoyed expressions of Grenache (and Grenache Blanc) from Bouchey, not sure exactly where those blocks are located. My favorite when he was in Prosser was Maison Bleue La Midi. Also recently tried 2020 Weathereye Grenache, bigger wine but obviously well made, and more elegant for sure than the Weathereye Syrah I have tried.
Overall, Grenache seems to be tough to find the right micro-climate. From what I’ve heard it was planted widely on the Yak Valley floor in the 1970-80’s and then they learned it was too hot in summer and got killed by winter freeze. Not sure if anyone has tried on Naches Heights, but I was advised to avoid in 2014-15 due to freeze potential.
It seems like some of the higher elevation sites in YV, some of which ripen a month or so behind Red Mtn, might contend climactically. I’ve had a bunch of syrahs from those showing more cool climate traits than elsewhere. I have no idea of soil types though.
I appreciate your enthusiasm for merlot. As a lover of right bank Bdx I can relate. Maybe I need to try more WA merlots (I always need to try more!) and/or take them more seriously but I think that sell is uphill against some unfair biases though. Cheers
If it wasn’t marketed as Merlot, but Rive Droite, or Right Bank Red, or Red Mountain Red, or HHH Red and $25-50 it would sell. Since it says Merlot it goes for under $15 and outpunches its price.
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There are a plenty of stories in Washington of high brix fruit that does not get phenolically ripe, but that is usually more of a farming problem as opposed to anything inherent to Washington. Many sites can support larger canopies or more than the 2-3 tons per acre that has long been thought necessary for high quality, but in actuality tends to ripen the fruit too quickly in what is a very hot place during the growing season. The diurnal shift here is pretty dramatic and we’ve got plenty of rocky areas here (Rocks, SeVein, North Fork not to mention the many areas outside of Walla Walla) and our silty soils verge on being sand by particle size in many areas as well, so we may actually have your recipe for Grenache in many places here.
I grew up in EWA, and probably date myself when I say I grew up with the kids whose parents owned vineyards like Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval and still had full time jobs. That and working ITB for over 22 years there has given me a pretty good grasp on AVAs, viticulture, and producers. Always happy to hear more and learn more, thanks for the perspectives.
I’m with you on Maison Bleue’s Le Midi. I just pulled a 2010 from the offsite do open and drink next to another 2010 that I pulled, Kerloo Alder Ridge Vyd. Grenache (Horse Heaven Hills).
And to Steve’s question, no, I don’t think Grenache in WA should necessarily be the antithesis to Cab Sauv. For the record, the, “Cab is WA is too ripe / big / etc.” is a pretty tired argument made repeatedly by a few here. I love WA State Cabernet, even more so than Merlot. I love Grenache too and have been wowed by a few and love the diversity it can represent in our state, sort of like you say, Pinot Noir can/does in other regions.
Kris, I like and respect your opinions, but this is one you repeatedly tout that I disagree with. While it is just that, an opinion, I just haven’t found many (any?) Merlot from Washington that have really blown back my nickers. I love wines like Spring Valley Uriah and Baer Ursa, and have enjoyed Merlots from L’Ecole, Woodward Canyon, Tempus, and Seven Hills in the past, but none of them have moved me the way some amazing Cabernet Sauvignon wines (and Syrahs for that matter) have.
If I was to throw down some coin, what one or two really killer WA State Merlots should I buy? I’d really like to try again because, admittedly, my Merlot purchasing from WA State is very limited. TIA, Cheers!
My current go to Merlot is Cultura from Zillah; I’ve been case buying for past ~10 years and it is consistent. They are now on 2016, maybe 2017 release, since Covid really set them back. No real distribution of their wine, tasting room or club sales almost entirely. Recent Cultura purchases were club/discounted @ ~$35. Other favorites over the years, Leonetti, Abeja, Owen Roe DuBrul, Rasa CT DuBrul. Closed favorites were Steppe Cellars, Olsen. I often pick up a mint note in Yak Merlot that I find delicious. Merlot is my Sister-in-law’s favorite and we open a lot when she visits, which is often.
A thought on the what is the state’s best variety question. Perhaps some have a feel for the answer based on the floor. That is, how good is variety x consistently across a range of respectable or even average producers/winemakers. From that point of view I have a very high opinion of WA merlot as there’s quite a few that are very good consistently. A different way to answer the question is based on the highest highs, or what variety has made the most stunning wines or more often achieves the best the state has to offer. From that perspective it’s easily syrah but I appreciate that others’ MMV. Cheers.
Their web site is antiquated with no real way to order either. But they are known on the Yakima/Rattlesnake wine trail, at least by me. Mom and Pop team, Sarah and Tad Fewell. Sarah worked with Sheridan long ago; they both tag team on vineyard and in cellar. They grow Cab Franc and Zinfandel (of all things). The Zin is a very interesting expression of that grape, lighter weight and color, but same spice notes. They buy fruit from Meek, Sunridge, and a few other sites.
Here is the conundrum, I think there are wines out there that show some of the potential of Merlot, but the best Merlot is blended in with Cab to give it more structure and less investment in barrels etc…happens due to financial realities of selling Merlot.
A lot of my Merlot comments come from going around and trying barrels and how good raw material is against Cab vs. what ends up in bottle because a winemaker can only sell Merlot for $XX dollars but can garner a much higher price for Cab or Proprietary Red. There are a few very good Merlot in bottle in WA, Pedestal and Quilceda Creek at the higher end, Clos de Betz or Bookwalter Conflict for dominant blends, and Januik, Substance, and Abeja for Merlot at a lower price point.
Got it, Kris, thanks. Now that you reiterate that, I remember you saying exactly that on multiple occasions. Good call on adding Betz CdB to the list (which goes with Baer Ursa and Spring Valley Uriah on my list of great Merlot-heavy blends). I think L’Ecole’s blends almost usually are heavier on Cab Sauv than Merlot, but I really like them a lot.
Would it be inappropriate for me to start a new thread so we can collect ideas for Washington Merlot-heavy blends? Or do it here? There are just not any clean ways to sort out Bdx blends that are Cab-heavy. A quick scan through Bordeaux blends from WA in CT (2019 vintage) that appear to be Merlot-dominant:
Betz Clos de Betz
Baer Ursa
Spring Valley Uriah
Cadence Coda
Andrew Will Champoux, Two Blondes, and Sorella
Avennia Valery
DeLille D2
Force Majeure Parabellum Alluvio
Matthews Reserve Cuvee (not Claret)
Upchurch Counterpart
But they are known on the Yakima/Rattlesnake wine trail, at least by me. Mom and Pop team, Sarah and Tad Fewell. Sarah worked with Sheridan long ago; they both tag team on vineyard and in cellar. They grow Cab Franc and Zinfandel (of all things). The Zin is a very interesting expression of that grape, lighter weight and color, but same spice notes. They buy fruit from Meek, Sunridge, and a few other sites.