I’ve had only spotty access to my cellar over the past 5-6 years and kind of forgot about a few things kicking around in there. After prowling around I decided it’s probably time to check in on some. Prepping this one for this evening. It’s not often I drink wines born before I was.
Poured clear almost like a Provençal rosé. Smells very clean out of the gate and filled the immediate area with a gorgeous perfume alleviating any prior concerns that it may be too far gone.
That is a craaaaaazy color. Awesome!
Nothing funky that needs to blow off. There’s a slight hint of rusty iron which I find in most Barolo with sufficient age but it doesn’t detract. Very clean and surprisingly peppy. Dominant nose after a swirl kicks off almost a mild dell’Erborista Amaro (been a long time since I’ve had one but I was reminded of it) smell that is less herbal and more cinnamon-y. Sometimes after maybe 35-40 years some Barolo can get a little tiring on the palate if they are dirty or otherwise have too much of a ferrous aroma and flavor but not here, this is eminently drinkable.
The 2004 Monprivato was good, but I had another bottle not that long ago that was much more lifted and one of the best Nebbiolo’s I’ve had. So disappointed through expectations, but it was still good!
Brovia’s 2012 Rocche was ready as pop’n’pour, but with air it started showing better and better. The day after the tasting it was even better! Pure classic Barolo with good lift and a good amount of red fruit which I love.
How much air do you feel the Brovia needed?
I have this and a Garblet Sue on deck to open soon.
It is delicious right out of the gate. But pouring a small glass to give it some air and then just let it rest in the bottle for 4-5 hours will certainly make it better.
We did not decant it, so not sure how it will react to that, but probably fine.
I don’t think the 2015 is nearly the equal of the 2010 and time will not get it there. I think it, the 2015, has reached its peak, which is in line with the $30 or so that I paid for it, and the 2010 will continue to exceed expectations for the next several years. Your 2015 may have been stored better than mine, closer to the source, etc. Hard to say. Glad it showed so well.
Sounds good. If I’ve had the 2010, I can’t remember it, so not really part of my calculations. At the moment, I have bottles of 2015, 2016 and 2017, so those are the ones I’m following and comparing. But will make a note to pounce on 2010 if it ever shows up for sale!
Some ponderings while and after drinking this: The initial one was will the current trend in the area towards a more gentle, earlier drinking style produce wines that not only live, but drink so well after 50 years, let alone more than 70? I don’ think it will but no one will know until then. The new style brings its own attributes so I am not saying one is better than another, just that I think they are different enough and will make for different experiences. I’ve had a few Barolo from the 50s (Conterno and more Marchesi) and the texture is probably my favorite thing about them. Since these are from a time before single crus were commercially bottled, I haven’t found them to be as complex as some cru bottlings from the 60s onward and I believe that’s more to do with the fruit source than ‘simply’ turning into generic aged wine. Even though crus were not separated, obviously that means the good crus got mixed in too and, like Rioja, the mixing can provide very good results. This was still distinctly Barolo and not just anonymous aged wine. The texture was so seamless. Structured but so graceful. I guess if I was guessing blind, I would go to Burgundy along with Barolo or maybe Rioja and that’s partly because of the texture. I could be wrong, but I don’t think the earlier drinking, smoother tannin, style coming out now will hold the texture for so long. There is something lost in that, but also something gained when one doesn’t need to wait decades to avoid a mouthful of nails.
Another thing that occurred to me is that all of the bottles I have had from the 50s have been pretty nice upon opening and didn’t evolve that much with air. This is in contrast to many that I have had from the 60s that either start out pretty stinky and clean up with air and/or initially seem decrepit and colorless only to find more life and color with air. I dunno. Maybe just my particular bottles, but I am wondering if maybe Barolo goes through another evolutionary stage after some 45-50 years that cleans up that funky stage.
In any event, I love these things.
2019 Donnas Classico, Valle d’Aosta
A charming Alpine Nebbiolo from the small village of Donnas, just north of Carema. They actually call the grape variety a different name, Picotendro, but it’s the same grape as far as I’m aware. There’s also a little bit of Freisa and Neyret (a grape I had never heard of before) blended in. This winery is a local co-op and seems to be the main producer in the village of Donnas, though I think there are a few others.
It’s an elegant and pretty Nebbiolo, definitely can feel its alpine origin with its verve and chalkiness (if that’s a word?). I love how aromatic these higher altitude expressions of Nebbiolo can be. Tannins are tame compared to some Bramaterra I’ve had recently, but it’s still quite grippy and is super drinkable. It’s not a wine that’s going to blow anyone’s socks off but it’s a joy to drink. Good value for under $40.
I’ve only had this once - a 2015 - but quite enjoyed it!
So the 51 was good?
Looking for a 51 birth year wine
Yes, really good. Sometimes older wines are more intellectual than downright drinkable but this was sliding down the gullet with ease.
I see some strong notes on the Marchesi 51 on Cellartracker, including two from this group, Panos and Jeremy. I really don’t know the Marchesi history so I don’t know if this OPB bottling is different than what they had. As far as I know, the Gia Opera Prima Barolo is kind of like a Hospice de Beaune charitable organization and maybe this was a bottling made for that??
If you happen to find an Aldo Conterno 51 from a reliable source, I would jump on it. There’s a nice story by Mannie Berk on those old Conterno and why they are capable of going the extra distance due to storage in brenta (brente? 
)
Thanks. I do have some Giacomo Conterno 1967 I need to try sometime.
I also had a 1949 Marchesi for a friend’s 75th last year that was quite fine, so your notes are ressuring that I can explore more for Baroli.
Thanks!
I had this almost a year ago and it easily registered in my pantheon of wine experiences. (It was made by Giacomo) Given that 67 was an exceptionally fine year, you should be in store for a good time.
I no longer have the bottle, but I had a 1961 that was labeled Giacomo Conterno. It too was a wine of the gods.
Do you recall which one of these it was?
These were the two Barolos they made that year.
The top one.
