We had the 2004 G. Conterno Cascina Francia and Bartolo Mascarello Barolo this week, and they were also open for business. Both were light on their feet, and tasty with and without food. The Conterno was particularly beautiful in its early maturity phase. The B. Mascarello was quite good too, but still a bit scratchy.
FYI Both wines were double decanted in the afternoon before dinner, with the Conterno getting a couple more hours of air than the Mascarello.
Predominantly licorice and gravel on the nose.
In addition on the palate cherries, plums, raspberries and floral notes. Still quite burly tannins yet somehow silky. Medium acidity and a long finish that lingers int more grippy tannins. A good show for the vintage.
Yesterday I had my very first âfully matureâ Barolo.
Other âolderâ baroloâs Iâve had so far: â89 Aldo Conterno Bussia Soprana, â97 Ceretto (Bricco Rocche) Brunate, â95 Ceretto Prapo (over the hill).
Provenance: bought 2 bottles from someone (online) that won a case at auction and kept 3 for himself. He already drank 1 when I Inquired, which he reported was âfineâ (together with a photo).
Bottles seemed in very good shape from the photos (ullage and labels). Price paid: âŹ160/bottle, incl. shipping.
Gave the bottle to my friend 1 week before, so he could put it upright at his place.
Opened around 15:00. Cork was very mushy but came out in 1 piece (barely) with the Durand. Decanted for sediment in an aerating funnel into a wide bottom carafe. Sediment was all clumped together, which helped massively. Wine was very clear, with both red and brown tints. On the nose it was still very muted, but a quick sip indicated that there was still plenty of acidity and that the wine was absolutely not dead yet.
Instead of double decanting it back into the bottle, I put some foil over the top of the carafe and put it back in the cellar.
At dinner around 18:00, the aromatics were suddenly very much alive and wine was absolutely amazing. Very light bodied but with lots of complexity.
Wine didnât decline until the carafe was finished around 21:30.
I donât have a very analytic palate (relatively new in my wine journey), so my excuses for lack of detailed tasting notes.
Glad to have another bottle of this and some other old baroli (and Barbaresco) to discover.
2000 Travaglini Gattinara Riserva - Italy, Piedmont, Northern Piedmont, Gattinara (7/7/2025)
My final bottle, and probably the best of the six we've consumed. Just lovely, fully mature, soft tannins, lovely red fruits, still vibrant but with nice leather/earth/savory secondary notes. Really nice. (92 points)
Opened at our Airbnb in Barolo. Cork came out in several pieces (no Durand) a quarter of the cork I had to push into the bottle and strain, no biggie. Decanted for 3 hours and it really didnât change much. I saved some that I had 6+ hours later and no real change.
It was a bit past its prime for me at this age. Reduced down to forest floor, mushroom, desiccated roses on the nose and loads of sour cherry on the palate. But the finish lasted forever. Completely different wine on the nose vs palate. Still medium tannins, but all a bit âone notedâ for me.
Not terribly exciting pnp, but thats to be expected. Gave it a quick double decant and now after about two hours it is showing much better. The elegance of Roagna is bewitching to me, no sharp edges to this even so young. Went great with homemade pasta. Will try to keep a good chunk for tomorrow to see how it evolves.
I hadnât opened either vintage in many years. Took a trip and brought a mixed case with me including the 2008 Riserva. A 2.5 hour flight and then a drive a little over 1,000 miles. All the other wines seemed fine until I opened the Fenocchio which was very compromised on opening. Color faded, smell and taste very advanced. Didnât expect this as the 2006 Fenocchioâs Iâve had in recent years were still in good shape. Lo and behold it did the classic aged Neb thing and snapped somewhat back into shape by the next day. Still not a great bottle, but plenty fine. When I got back home I figured I better open another and see whatâs doing. A much better bottle yet it still seemed considerably more advanced than expected. No flaws, just completely ready to go. Fenocchio has never really been a 30+ year wine so this seemed pretty much within expectations but still a little advanced so I thought I better get to drinking the rest of the stash. Opened two more bottles that were very sound and just delicious. Theyâre not into tertiary territory but I think theyâre in a really nice place for drinking. Open, fresh fruit, tannins are pretty soft and silky for Barolo. Iâve never felt these are super deep Barolo so I think this is a good spot for them. Thatâs not a criticism considering price. They were and continue to be priced well below the heavy hitters. He did have some problems with corks around this time so that likely explains the variation. We discussed the cork problem over the 2009s. I donât know that he changed source but the 2010 cork looked like a different make than the 2008. Super tasty wine right now and I imagine sound bottles will go many years but I see no need to wait.
Noticeably a more complete wine and i chalk that up to the vintage. That said, it was bigger in the mouth than what I remembered, especially in comparison to the 2008. Yes, there is a vineyard difference. If anything, I would normally assume Villero to have the redder fruit and slightly more lithe palate with the relatively sandy soils of Bussia but thatâs not what I got here. Villero was slightly more structured as expected due to vintage and soils but thatâs about it. At this point I think I prefer the Bussia. Bussia is Fenocchioâs back yard so it could be that he just has a little better handle on it. I dunno. 2010 is really nice too and, like I mentioned, it is the more complete and complex wine, just not flowing down the gullet so seamlessly as the 2008 right now.
Both wines are pretty much in the zone after they get some air. Fenocchio is not a modernist by any means with the jumbo botti and pretty long macerations but these are very smooth drinking right now. Makes me curious about how other wines post 2008 are shaping up. Hard to say how long they go but I think theyâre both about at peak now and will drink for another 5-10 years depending on how fresh you like your fruit.
Edit to add apx prices. Canât remember exactly but I think the 2008 Riserva retailed for about $52.
The 2010 Villero we raised prices a little after all the accolades and I think it went for about $45.
2nd edit for some Barolo trivia. As longtime fans will know, Giacosa once made a Villero. Production stopped when Claudio married the owner and thatâs when Fenocchio Villero was born.
The few times I have tasted the Villero and Bussia I thought the former had slighty more stuffing and muscles. The Bussia just a bit more elegant and with herbs, though I tasted them shortly after release.
I posted about opening a 2010 Bussia further up - unfortunately corked⊠hoping my remains two bottles are fine.
Actually, the ownerâs daughter. Fratelli Sordo is still in business under the name Az. Agr. Pugnane F.lli Sordo ssa. I guess it was a wedding present.
Thanks for clearing that up. Is this the same Sordo that makes Sordo Barolo? I imported one order from them but ran into some difficulties with them and that was it. Pretty nice, trad, stern wines at decent prices. I donât recall them making a Villero, although maybe they do- I just donât remember it- or maybe itâs a different Sordo?
2007 Massimo Clerico Lessona fulfills its early promise. Long, bright, and mouthwatering with perfumed cherry pipe tobacco complexity. Primetime drinking for those who like that sweet spot between young and old.
Thatâs Azienda Agricola Sordo Giovanni di Giorgio Sordo which owns small plots in many MGAs including the only piece of Monprivato that G. Mascarello doesnât own.
The former Fratelli Sordo is now:
Azienda Agricola Pugnane Fratellli Sordo https://pugnane.it/
Interesting. I have had a few Sordo wines over the years but was unaware of all the crus. Those are some pretty spectacular sites. How do they stand up to the more well known wineries making wine from these vineyards?