Sounds a bit harsh. In the context of inflation/price increases in general, $45 seems pretty standard for this level of white wine in the Loire. These aren’t the luxury micro-cuvees ($100+) but they are also not basic regional wines ($20).
That said, I too buy less Chidaine than 20 years ago. Other producers now catch my eye. And I’ll also admit that I haven’t tasted the Bournais in many years. It used to be one of my favorite Chidaine wines 10-20 years ago, but it was always on the bigger side and I can imagine it’s tough going in the recent warm vintages.
I’ve been focusing on Les Choisilles and Clos du Breuil, especially 2021, which I’ve liked much more than 2022 or 2023. Yesterday I had my last bottle of 2021 Chidaine Clos du Breuil and really enjoyed the ripe flavors and decent body married with a nice bitter bite, evoking the days of old, although still in a fuller modern frame. Might be interesting to keep following the 2021s over time, but not sure I will…
2022 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine Le Repos du Mouton - France, Loire Valley, Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine (16.2.2026)
A very gentle nose with restrained citrus fruit, a whiff of honey and herbs, some whipped cream and a flinty note. On the palate it tells a similar story with a rather kind entry and roundness derived from the extended lees ageing. Midway through the acidity really picks up, bringing plenty of tension and firmness to the mouthfeel, eventually leading to a mouth-watering and somewhat tight finish. Not a showy wine as tends to be the case for Muscadet but there is a degree of seriousness to this without a doubt, especially compared to the Les Gras Moutons which is all funq. Not sure where this might go from here, I think I prefer the little sister at the end of the day - partially for sentimental reasons - but all things considered this is a neat drink. There is an aniseed note on the palate that I simultaneously like and dislike so I guess it’s net neutral.
A new prime (certainly pricewise) address, a project by the (former?) winemaker at Clos Rougeard. One should approach such ventures with a healthy dose of skepticism but this is a beautiful bottle of Chenin.
Sappy yellow fruit, salinity, good acidity, all good things. 12.5% On par with a recent Collier Saumur Blanc, only with more bite.
Notes of apples, pears and lemons on the nose and palate, quite crisp and taut as usual, but weak and diluted midpalate. Quite enjoyable but underwhelming. Very similar to the Ronceray 23 tried last year, it hints at what it could have been, but it’s a sketch as opposed to the finished article. Disappointing - I’m a fan of Plaisance, but not in 2023. I suspect that 2024s will be similar, so best to wait for the 2025s. 85 pts
I needed a wine to pair with Steelhead tonight, so I decided to check on this 2019. It’s maturing very nicely, has lost its youthful austerity, and is starting to show honeyed tones. It, smells of quince and baked apple, but on the palate Pomelo is more prominent. It’s intensely mineral, smoky, salty, spicy, long, and a silken texture is emerging. Incredible Vouvray which will only get better with a few more years sideways.
Fun lineup on the more lithe side of chenin. As expected, all of these needed a healthy amount of air to get going and the '21 Ongles never became as expressive as my last bottle for whatever reason. First time having the Clos de Hutte ('22) - enjoyed the density but needs time.
From this weekend, one dud and one rather disappointing:
Château de Plaisance - Anjou - Ronceray 2022
Hopefully a bad bottle - probably, judging by others’ comments on CT. But a little troubling all the same, since I had a premoxed 2020 last year. This one wasn’t premoxed, it was cidery and sour.
Coming on the back of some mediocre 23s, I’m beginning to think I rather overestimated this estate.
François Chidaine - Montlouis - Les Choisilles 2022
I wasn’t convinced by the bottle I had forgotten I’d opened in January, but this one convinced me even less. Citrus and melon aromas, then an attack of ripe apples and pears, some honey midpalate and a rather hot finish. A couple of glasses later I’d had enough. At 30€, not cheap either.
So, if you had one Vouvray visit on short notice, and Huet is only available for a four-wine tasting with no tour (late May), who else would you reach out to? Or, is it a time of the year when most winemakers aren’t running tours in Loire?
I’d like to go to a few places in Chinon, but I don’t think I’ve convinced my wife to drive an hour each way from Tours with our kiddo for that.
No - I visited their shop last year, wanting to buy some of their daughter’s wine (Clos de la Frelonnerie). I’d stopped buying Chidaine wines many years before because the ones I’d had didn’t age well. But the full range of 23s were open for tasting…so I duly obliged! I was surprised by how much I enjoyed them so bought a few, including Les Bournais, then they opened a Choisilles 22 and insisted I tried it (I had explained that I wanted fresh, crisp wines) - and I enjoyed it so bought a couple. Oh well, it just shows how crappy my taste is! I hadn’t noticed the hot finish at all! Anyway, it’s not flabby, just a bit too high octane for me - I don’t like it when I feel a bit drunk after a single glass of white.
Ironically, perhaps, I would really recommend visiting the Chidaine shop in Montlouis:
They have a great selection of Loire wines, not just their own - it’s hard to resist stocking up!
You could also consider visiting Jacky Blot’s:
I only visited once a long time ago, and I think you now need an appointment by mail, but it’s only about ten minutes drive from La Cave Insolite, so you could combine the two (with a visit of the château in Amboise, for example). I imagine they’ll have both the whites and the reds from La Butte.
NOSE: light and floral; a bit powdery; has an overall “bright” presentation.
BODY: pale green-yellow color; {forgot to note weight, but it certainly wasn’t anything more than medium}
TASTE: juicy – citric – kumquat and mandarin; medium+ acidity, but still a bit soft for Boudignon; 12.5% alc. not noticeable; apparent acidity increases to “high” with air and a warmer serving temp. (low 60s F); a touch salty; light oak and light smokiness; so so good … firmly excellent.
.
2010 François Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos Habert - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Montlouis-sur-Loire (5/9/2026)
This was similar to our last bottle a couple of years ago, honey and apricot lifted up by an acid spine and finishing with gingery spice. But it had a touch less acid than I remember and felt a bit round through the finish. Still in a good spot but may have been at peak in 2024 for my tastes.
Lovely nose of white peach, spring flowers and citrus fruits, with some flintiness and sea spray. On the palate, very fresh and crisp, like a cross between a Muscadet and a Loire Chenin, with notes of apricot, white peach, lemon, and a salty tang midpalate, before a long but refreshing finish. Not for those who like the lusher, honey-dominated chenins, this is full of tension and zest - so right up my street.
It’s a lovely wine, no question - my only slight quibble would be that it’s slightly more expensive than the Grand Beaupréau, without any noticeable increase in quality. 93 pts
Edit - The price difference depends on the vintage: I just bought some 2022 which was actually cheaper than the Grand Beaupréau 2023.
