Wife and I went to a champagne tasting yesterday afternoon, then has a little champagne at dinner to celebrate NYE. Couldn’t catch disgorgements at the tasting, which was casual but led by a vey competent Somm at Blackberry Farms.
Delamotte - Les Mesnil Sur Oger - Brut NV - Lovely start to the tasting with pear, apple, white flower notes, light toast. This has lovely balance and is, for me, a very nice release for Delamotte. Satisfying style, nice and bright. This was 91ish for me.
Arlaux - Brut Nature Premier Cru NV - Apple, apricot, spice, with a hint of brioche and salinity. A crisp, dry finish, but hollow in the mid-palate for me, falling short of a satisfying champagne. 88-89 range, and just not really my style.
Diebolt-Vallois - Blanc de Blancs Brut 2002 - This is a lovely bottle of champagne, showing what is right about peak maturity for my palate, which riched baked apple tart, a hint of butterscotch, baking spices, ginger, and hazelnut, with nice lemon citrus cut keeping things from getting heavy. A deep and rich wine, but with nice acidity and balance. 93+. Drink it.
Stephane Coquillette - 2015 - Les Cles - Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru - Bright pear driven fruit with lemon, chalk, and zingy acidity. A faint hit of white cherry/light berry notes on the back end, with a touch of sweet tarts. It’s a bit light and racy, but not particularly dense or complex. This is 90ish for me. Learned later it’s a Brut Zero, and I don’t think that’s to its benefit.
Lelarge-Pugeot - Rose Extra Brut Premier Cru NV - I have never heard of this producer before, so this was a fun introduction. This shows strawberry basil, blood orange, hint of white flowers, bright acidity leading to a crisp finish. This is mouthwatering and has a lovely nose, but it’s also not that deep and complex. Faint strawberry notes are the star of the show. It’s just a light bright little wine. Still, an enjoyable enough rose. 90.
2014 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut - Lovely bright citrusy aromatics lead into big lemon, kumquat, tangy orange, chalky minerality. Dense and loaded with citrus and orchard fruit, ginger, and a hint of shortbread cookie. This is easily the most complex of the wines, even if not a great Cristal in my book, showing more of a racy citrus-driven profile than other recent vintages. It is excellent, but needs time. I would keep paws off this for a while if possible. 94-95.
Then, after dinner:
2008 Billecart Salmon Louis Salmon BdB - Note really notes, just some impressions after a big meal and a lovely bottle of burgundy. This is bright and fun with jazz apple, citrus, white toast, chalky minerality, and great verve. As it warms, the nose expands offering slightly richer fruit notes, with a hint of dried pineapple bolstering the snappy citrus and apple. Some spicy notes on the finish. Lovely and exuberant. A banger. 95.
