Over 4 years post disgorgement (which is a good spot for VP), July 2021 disgorgement, 7 years on the lees, 3 gr/l.
This bottle was one of the best VP I can remember. Balanced, great length, precise, complex, etc. Plenty of spicy fruit, brioche, good acidity, everything I could want. Good stuff!,
Two very solid bottles yesterday, the Paillard at a sushi restaurant in Sapporo and the Huré Freres picked up at a local shop and drunk in the room with a few snacks in place of dinner.
Larmandier-Bernier Latitude BdB: This is the most recent disgorgement with the foil-less white wire cage. Back label lacked pertinent information other than that it’s extra brut. It’s bottled at 2g/l, and consists of 40% reserve wines going back to 2004. Not going to lie, I found this to be rather boring and generic, and poor value. I’ve had prior releases of this that I found quite nice, but this was not it. A fairly non-descript crisp BdB profile with lemon citrus, stony minerality, maybe a slight hint of thyme, and a touch of toast. But there is little real character in this bottling, and it is not quite whole and pleasing. This is in that 90-91ish range where you can tell it’s not miles from excellent, but is unquestionably not excellent. Rather, it seems obviously well made, it’s just not that engaging or enjoyable.
Brought with us from home and drunk at a ryokan with amazing views. Recently flown champagne almost never shows well for us, but even a lesser bottle of 06 Comtes is a pleasure.
Wow, I haven’t posted on here since June…a lot to catch up on.
Thankfully, I have still had quite a bit of champagne in the past few
Standouts: Laherte Freres ultratradition 1.5L I believe this was spring of 2024 disgorgement
2006 Henriot Cuvée Humera: still showing pretty young, but this is balanced and a really pleasant bottle to drink.
Krug 171 375ml I unfortunately don’t drink Krug frequently, so it’s always special when I do. I’ve yet had a bottle disappoint. I love the floral/jasmine notes and then the balance between acid and nuttiness on the palate.
Suenen C+C 6/27/23 disgorgement so 2020 base. I love these bottles. Unfortunately their prices aren’t as attractive anymore.
Misses:
Cedric Bouchard VV R19: I don’t know if it’s because this was opened with the Krug, but it’s just didn’t do it for me and I couldn’t put my finger on what it was.
Eric Rodez cuvee des crayeres
Again good, not great. I’ll have to seek out other bottles, but this made me feel like I’m not in a rush to spend and try others.
Dhondt-Grellet Les Terres Fines October 2022 disgorgement : I much preferred the Agrapart Terroirs I had before this.
I think I’m leaning more towards the bready/yeasty bottles rather than the linear styles. But then Suenen contradicts that. Who knows, I love champagne and that’s not to say I didn’t enjoy all these bottles.
Afternoon depachika hit = in-room picnic with a Nov 2014 disgorgement Egly-Ouriet rosé brought from home. No travel issues here, after sitting for a little over a week. We landed with a 6 pack shipper box which we sent from the airport to Osaka hotel, while we went to Hokkaido for a week-ish with some bottles in suitcase. This Egly Showed beautifully today.
I have a horizontal rack in the back for mags of Chardonnay/whites and this got stuck with them and kinda overlooked, anyway this had such a pronounced ‘red wine streak’ that truly blind I’d have no doubt guessed this was a rose-not in a bad way. I suppose I’m better at guessing the age of still wine but there is NO way I’d have called this a 2013 it was fresh & lively. Nice bottle but what a pita to store.
I can not remember where I got this from-probably on super sale or a package deal maybe; finally decided to open it with a very average meal…and it was a perfect pairing, a very average wine. It was kinda ok but definitely not a rebuy imo
Brief tasting impressions from a local Champagne-only event. Pours were generous and lines long, so I missed more producers than I’d like to admit. I was still able to get to most of the ones that I was interested in.
Chartogne-Taillet
2019 Les Barres (B)
Good but not great, has potential, fruit came across as a bit unrripe
2019 Hors-Série (aged with cork caps) (B)
A bit closed down. Quite a bit of acid so unbalanced at this stage, kinda like the young Sainte Anne bdb they made for 2021.
2019 Hors-Série (aged with metal caps) (A-)
crazy how different this is from the one aged with cork caps. so much more approchable. Vibrant yellow fruit and brioche. Interesting experiment. Much respect to Taillet for producing cuvees with slight differences that really show how so little can make so much change in the complex scheme of winemaking.
Clandestin
NV Les Passagers Fiole Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature (C)
Is this a new line intended to replace the bdbs? Producer wasn’t present at the booth, so I couldn’t confirm. Interesting label choice (black for bdb, white for bdn) Clean, like the Les Revers. Still way too young to assess.
NV Les Passagers Haut de Val Barmont Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature (B±A-)
Now this is what Im talking about. more oxidative, herbal, much more in the spirit of other Clandestin cuvees. Delicious.
NV Boreal Pinot Noir Brut Nature (A-)
Very good as always. I think Clandestin makes better pinot than chardonnay but that might just be me.
Dhondt-Grellet
NV Cramant Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (C)
Always hear good things about this but never had a good time with a pour. Pure and crystaline in a way.
NV Les Terres Fines Extra Brut (B)
2022 base? Much better than cramant, generous, giving. ample fruit with moderate acidity.
2019 Le Bateau Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (A)
Le Bateau is the flagship cuvee as far as I know and it shows from the intense fruit concentration. Green apples, citrus, bit of cheese. Kinda like apple cheesecake. Smells amazing after a while. Too bad this is so expensive.
2019 Les Nogers Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (B+)
Needs time, bateau is better for now.
Special note- I think Roc Solare is the best among Adrien’s creations, having drunk a bottle before this event.
Egly-Ouriet
NV 1er Cru Les Vignes de Bisseuil (B)
Better than vrigny with a general bright feel to it, but doesn’t have that oomph I expect from Egly.
NV 1er Cru Les Vignes de Vrigny (C)
It was ok; felt rather generic to the tired tongue. Like Nowack but with less complexity and depth.
NV Grand Cru (A-)
Was not a fan of this cuvee based on recent experiences but this was surprisingly open and pleasant for a recently disgorged GC. Biscuits, yellow fruit, moderate acid. Delicious and a change of pace from all the acid monsters.
2016 Grand Cru Millésime (B+)
Again way too young to access in a meanful way now, but has a great long lingering finish. Will probably get some stupid score and a matching price so I was just glad I had an opportunity to try. Acidity suggests this is built for the long haul. Still like the BdN better all things considered.
Franck Bonville
NV Unisson Blanc de Blancs Brut (B+)
Very generous and pleasant if a bit generic. Creamy, brioche, smaller crisp fruits. Good QPR.
2018 Pur Avize Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (C+)
Bit more acidic on the tongue than unisson and quite chiseled. Generally not a fan of their 2018s.
2017 Les Belles Voyes Blanc de Blancs Brut (B-)
Weakness of the vintage shows here but acid is not lacking; perhaps needs time post -disgorgement. Loved the 2012, 2014, and 2015 for the record.
Frédéric Savart
NV Ecueil Trepail Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (A-)
Very good, I did not expect savart to make such a great bdb but this is very much in line with the other BdN. Has that intense concentrated yellow fruit extract feel to it like Haute Couture.
2021 Les Noues Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut (B-)
not my favorite, could be the vintage, could be the vineyard. Always a bit bitter/concentrated in a not good way for me.
NV Bulle de Rosé Extra Brut (C)
Oxidative and nice smelling, but falls short of achieving much else. A bit watery on the midpalate.
Henri Giraud
MV20 Fût de Chêne Brut (C)
Looks like HG is taking a purer approach to creating their upper line while doing more oak experimentation with their entry level cuvee. Not much oak, nor fruit. Bit of a letdown, honestly .
NV Esprit G Nature Brut (B+)
I like the revamped Esprit, especially at the pricepoint. Got a bit more verve and a natural edge to it compared to the old one. Good acidity too. A bit Bollinger-like?
2016 Argonne Brut (F***)
Sadly drained by the time I got to the line.
Huré Frères
2019 Inattendue Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (B)
Just need more time to bloom. This has good underlying substance and this is my second favorite from the whole lineup next to the Memoires. White flowers, subtle fruit with ample acid that goes on and on.
2018 Instantanée Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut (C-)
My second time having this and this is always just meh.
NV Insouciante Rosé Extra Brut (D)
Bit like Savart but with shrill acidity. Pretty color tho.
Jacques Selosse
NV Substance Blanc de Blancs Brut (A+)
Selosse will always be a Selosse. It’s like having a bit of everything and then more.
NV Rosé Brut (A-)
A bit of exotic spice from Egly’s red is what sets this rose apart from the others. Great wine at greater prices.
La Rogerie
NV Bourg Sud Grand Cru Réserve Perpétuelle 18–22 Extra Brut (A)
22 Base with a good bit of reserve wines mixed in dating back to 2018. Good starter with ripe citrus and apple matching the sizzling acidity levels. Bit of greenness, herbal complexity as well. I need to find a bottle.
2020 Chemin de Chalons Avize & Cramant Grand Cru Extra Brut (B)
Way too young, all potential and little show. Very structured and ungiving feel to it. Remaining wine in the glass started smelling nice 10 minutes in. Want to taste this again in 5 years but sadly its impossible to get a bottle.
2020 Champ Bouton Avize Grand Cru Extra Brut (A-)
Bit better than Chalons for now, pineapple, ripe apple seeping out of otherwise dense, acidic body.
Laurent Perrier
NV heritage brut (B+)
takes the cake for being the strangest-smelling champagne of the day. Smoked cheese feel to it. Cream covered fruit bowl on the palate but smokiness dominates. Its weird but I like it. Producer told me its like a baby Grand Siecle and I concurred.
MV grand siecle 26 (B+)
Similar reduction presents itself but in a more balanced, structured way. Less cream and more vibrant compared to the heritage. still young and needs time and food. Intense.
NV rose (C)
I forgot to write down notes; not really memorable tbh. A bit of that yeasty autolysis stood out.
2012 Cuvee Alexandria rose (A-)
Special pour from the host. Wow, this is still so young for a 2012 but then I realize this is LP we are talking about. Savory edge to it and I can almost chew on the tannin. Like a clearer, more focused dom rose without gunpowder. I wanted to get food sit down and contemplate this wine. Too bad they weren’t serving food.
Larmandier-Bernier
2016 Vieilles Vignes du Levant Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (A+)
This was on FIRE. Like 2008 Comtes level fire. Immediately approachable with yellow, exotic fruits and baked goods. Tastes like a really good flagship cuvee on a great vintage that’s been aged for 10+ years. Wish it wasn’t so expensive.
2018 Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs Brut Nature (C)
I think Larmandier suffered from too much heat in 2018 and this was no different. 2018s will generally need to shed their baby fat to show their true potential, as was the case here. Tasted “shy”. Very vinous.
NV Rosé de Saignée Extra Brut (D)
Wow, this is one of the funkiest rose I’ve ever tasted. A lot of autolytic notes thats leaning into soy and miso paste territory. Complexity is definitely there and it’s very pretty to look at, but its just not my cup of tea.
Marguet
NV Shaman 22 Grand Cru
Did not taste. In retrospect, I should have.
2020 La Grande Ruelle Ambonnay Grand Cru Lieu-dit (B)
This was just ok. A little too extracted with orange-ish tinge to it. I want to see how this develops over a few years.
2020 Le Parc Ambonnay Grand Cru Lieu-dit (S+)
WOTN for me. This was an embodiment of everything Marguet stands for. Wild, natural, but meticulously crafted with razor-like precision. Savory but sweet. Overwhelming in a good way. Don’t hesitate to drink now.
NV Shaman 22 Rosé Grand Cru (A)
I’ve tasted every Shaman rose from 2015 so was about to wave this off. Glad I didn’t. This has to be one of the best bottle I’ve ever tasted. Strawberries, cherries, that savory herbal component I’m looking for in every Marguet. Ample acidity. Just a wee bit of cough syrup that’s detracting from the overall experience. Benoit is back with vengeance!
Nathalie Falmet
ZH303 Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut (B+)
This was very interesting on the nose. Like a veil of cream was covering the crystaline structure of the underlying wine. It was generous and flavourful and at the same time it was sharp and focused. Its hard to put it into words but get what I mean? BTW who the hell names a vineyard ZH? Very good regardless.
NV Le Val Cornet Blanc de Noirs Brut (B)
Recommended pour by the producer. Similar in vein to the ZH303 but less paradoxical. Being a bdn it was a bit more generous, but didn’t have that extra edge that I was expecting from the pinot.
Nowack
2021 Les Terres Bleues (B+)
Heard that this has a cult following so I was like why not? and it certainly didn’t disappoint. Very natural, dry and “light” Meunier made in a style similar to that of Jerome Prevost’s Les beguines. Not quite the same level of savory component to it but it would be nice to let this sit for a few years to see how it transforms. Definitely worth trying.
2021 La Fontinette (B+)
Old vine Meunier from 1966, I think. Simillar to terres bleues. Missing that stern jagged edge feel of most 100% meniuer champagnes. Just a clean delivery of crisp, salt-dipped citrus turning apples, plum, just a tiny bit of natural component, autolysis. Nice.
Pierre Peters
NV Cuvée de Réserve Brut (B+)
Always enjoyable in a moderately approachable style. The crispness of the mesnil fruits resonates.
Millésime L’Esprit de 2019 (B)
Similar to the CdR but not as approachable. More acid. Will need time.
2017 Les Chétillons (C)
Sad to say that the recent trio of Chetillons just isn’t for me. Lemon acidity dominates the otherwise empty palate.
2017 Les Montjolys(A-)
Now we are talking. Lemon crossing into grilled territory. Some fine brioche going into the oven. Good stuff. Wish I had more time with this bottle.
Vilmart & Cie
2019 Grand Cellier d’Or (A)
What a vintage, what a wine. Was expecting that vitamin C feel to it but this is already quite enjoyable. Why was I so late to the Vilmart table?
2016 Cœur de Cuvée (A+)
Thought GCdR was great but this just blew it out of the water with wider frames and just better overall impression. Many of the best wines on this event were screaming for food; this was tasty by itself.