I’ll tag @Sarah_Kirschbaum because she knows Marche Moderne. My wife and I decided to head there last night, to celebrate our 25th anniversary.
I am blessed with many things, I endeavor to be grateful for what I have in my life, and for certain it is my wife. For almost 30 years she has helped me become a better person, and I owe her a debt for that I will always work to honor.
I’ve been feeling the taste for a some Chardonnay bubbles for a week now, so I decided to do another one of the 18 Eloquence. I dig this cuvee, as much as I do the Laherte Freres Nature de Craie–I buy both in larger quantity for my cellar. Both wines feed my joy for drinking clean and crisp Chard, without sacrificing texture.
So, a few photos from dinner last night, as I know there are food people on this thread. As Sarah can tell you, March Moderne is dynamite, and for my own thinking in the top 3 places in our area. The service, food quality and environment is top shelf. I hope the picture do it justice.
Thanks for reading.
2018 Marie-Courtin Champagne Éloquence Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut - France, Champagne (5/19/2025)
Another bottle of the November 2022 disgorgement. Last night I grabbed a bottle for dinner, when we polished off about 3/4ths of it. My wife, who never has much of a strong reaction to the stuff I serve her, she says this is one of the best Champagnes I ever poured for her. Huh, ok. Then our server at the restaurant, who works in a place where she gets a crack at some pretty big names, she has this 'Wow' reaction, too. Well, ok then. As for me, when we first poured this, it reminded me of the bottle earlier this year--more rich and dense. But as dinner continued, the bottle began to tighten up, or more accurately, the energy started to ping through the wine better. I sealed the bottle and took the leftovers home. Having more today, plenty of good CO2 retained and the right serving temp (just cool enough to have a light chill). So what's here today? For sure, that savory, gamy orange note from this year's previous bottle, which I really enjoy. And the same lemon oil and peel thing, too. What though seems additive in this bottle, meaning what I sense that I didn't last time, is the crisp green apple. That really comes through, and I'd expect that given the no dose approach and the clean-as-a-whistle farming Dominique Moreau applies to this wine. Where I land on this wine is a mixed sense. In some ways kinda like 2014/2016 with the great clarity and energy, and also some interesting features that are more warm, more like what we'd think of as 2018. By the way if you let this get pretty close to still, and then warm up just enough, the Chard character is really evident and transparent, along with that cool gamy citrus and a nice cut of refreshing minerality.
Love the note frank. Had a 17 efflorescence recently that was really good. Night as rich as 15, but so fresh. Could have blinded me it as a blanc de blanc. Glad the 18 eloquence showed well. Only have 2 of those.
Glad you had a wonderful night
It’s true I know the place, but you might want to read what I said about the restaurant over in the LA dining thread before you attribute any positive opinions to me.
2013 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier d’Or
Opened by BillHike. 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir. Disgorged 12/2017. 2nd time I have had this wine. Creamier than when I had it 2 years ago. Light straw color. Moderate bead. Notes of pear, chalk and vanilla bean. I liked this slightly better than the 2016 Goulard Special Club which we drank before it. 94 points.
Bummer. I can’t say I’ve ever had a bad experience at Marche Moderne. If anything consistently great experiences. Was there something or more than one thing that was in that meal that you just didn’t care for? I’m just curious.
They were lovely. But there is nothing that kitchen did that I can respect. Overcooked sole, not once but twice. Stale bread. Butter with a refrigerator taste. Everything over sauced and gloppy. Disgusting bone marrow dish. Way too much fat/salt/sauce. It was like the chef from TGI Fridays got thrust into the kitchen and told to produce sophisticated French food. My clients liked it, but confessed to having stomachache the next day, as did both Jonathan and I. One of the worst expensive meals I have had.
Also meuniere sauce that was just melted butter with capers. And broken sauce on the under cooked potatoes.
NV André Clouet Un Jour de 1911.
Another beauty. I think this was from an older disgorgement (although there’s no way to know for sure). It walks the line nicely between freshness and maturity. Generous notes of biscuit and ripe pear up front, with crisp apple, lemon zest, a little ginger, and a hint of coffee bean. This is our go-to high-end house Champagne for a reason.
100% Pinot Noir, aged at least six years on the lees in stainless and neutral oak. Dosage is probably in the 6–10 range. No markings on the cork or bottle to confirm which release.
I know others have had mixed experiences with this cuvée, but we’re happy to cellar quite a bit of it.
My first time with this cuvée when the Memoire we ordered was sold out. Right up my alley in the savory pinot-y category. Loved it and will be seeking it out for the cellar.
Fantastic bottle of 04 krug last night shared with my wife. Burnished good colour. Palate initially quite precise and minerally. With air, notes of bruised apples and caramel began to appear. Can’t remember the last time the 2 of us finished a bottle so quickly!
Bf surprised me with a 1996 P2 last Sunday. My mind is still fuzzy from attending a 3 days music festival so notes are not detailed. Brioche, roasted macadamia, bruised orchard fruits on the note. Yellow apple, peach, nuts, croissant and caramel on palate. Nice minerality with hella long finish. Had it with gochujang Korean fried chicken. Perfect recovery meal when you stayed up from 11pm Friday till 6pm Sunday with only one spotty sleep on Saturday morning.
Charles Dufour Champagne Bulles de Comptoir #11 Terrine et Jardin (2020 base)
Delicious, fresh with slight oxidative notes. Pale salmon in color, very little to no brioche/bread notes, more on the vinous white wine with bubbles type of Champagne.
