Which Champagne are you drinking?

[Frank_Murray_III]

Thank you, Chris.

I have enjoyed all three of the most recent vintages of GCdO. I’ll post the most recent tastes of each if it’s helpful. In sum, all have been to my liking, as well as unique in comparison to each other. I find that Laurent Champs makes wonderful wine, regardless of what hand he is dealt.

As a closing visual, maybe a few photos of him would add to the discussion. Of the two times I have visited him, he exudes a real graciousness and warmth, just like his wines.

• 2018 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier d'Or - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (1/1/2024)
  Annual NYE Dinner and Champagne (My House): Disgorged July 2021. Is it me or is this cuvee seeing shorter sur latte time? I had thought these were typically 4 years after tirage? Doing the math here, this is only about 2 years? Hmm. I'm a devoted drinker of this cuvee and have been for a decade so was eager to see how the warmer year would reflect. Of note, and I wasn't begging the outcome, there is some austerity here. Grapefruit, lime peel and even some cranberry. Cranberry? Yes, I swear it's here. And yes, the expected tangerine and apple is also here. With air, this does add some richness, so the apple has some caramel on it, and some orange emerges, along with pineapple. But still the tension of the earlier tastes remains, the tarter edge, which I do like a lot. Man, the last few vintages of GCdO (notably 2016 and 2017) have all for me shows some cool edges.
• 2017 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier d'Or - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (10/13/2023)
  Disgorged April 2021. A year since I had this wine, and as with that bottle, I dig how this shows, too. Lots of orange-y citrus, both the usual tangerine but also big round orange, too. Golden apple, lime and the minerality of the previous bottle, too. The sensation is akin to tasting wet rock, a slate. Gorgeous. This has a refreshing quality, the generosity of Vilmart that I love so well yet it maintains a rich, freshness that I love so much. Put Vilmart in my glass any day, for any setting, and it's like someone has poured liquid joy in front of me.
• 2016 Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Grand Cellier d'Or - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru (1/19/2023)
  Champagne Bookclub (served blind)--Rob (Water Grill in Costa Mesa): Another bottle of the October 2020 disgorgement. Served blind. My buddy next to me nailed the wine as GCdO, honing in on the Vilmart signature. The aromatics on this had a dried leave/herb note, which then the table started to sense as mint, then spearmint. This bottle showed the consistent composure, good spine, with tangerine, lime/bright citrus. Later, as I sat with the wine again via a small pour, the savory thing finally hit me, which is a quality of the 2016 I have noticed previously. This is a bad ass wine, and I continue to have repeating, top notch experiences with GCdO, as it just keeps delivering quality, acidity, complexity and balance.

Posted from CellarTracker

[ChrisJames]

Thanks Frank. As I have mentioned, I’m hesitant about the 2018 vintage but am a big fan of 2016. I know that you prefer your Champagne on the younger side, while other have spoken about aging Cd’O for well over a decade. What has been your sweet spot with these? Have you had one in which you found it too aged?

[Frank_Murray_III]

Last year we opened several bottles each of 2013 and 2014 GCdO, both drinking great. And even a 2012, which was still very fresh. I have some older ones, 2008-2010, that I’ll use for pairing with Coeur de Cuvee when we do our blind stuff around here.

[Kris_Patten]

That first pic makes me laugh and picture Laurent saying in a thick French accent “but Frank if it were this big, just imagine…”

That should be a caption contest.

[Warren_Taranow]

@J_Rock

I’ve had some Claude Cazals Champagne (the 2008 Clos Cazals)

Jordan,
How’s the '08?
Warren

[J_Rock]

I unfortunately didn’t take notes, but I remember it being really nicely balanced being rich but energetic with good acidity, and possessing good fruit. Definitely not an austere BdB.

[Steve_Nordhoff]

Great to have you back my friend and thanks for your wonderful posts!

[Frank_Murray_III]

• 2019 Vouette et Sorbée Champagne Fidèle - France, Champagne (1/23/2024)
  Another bottle (#217 labeled) of the October 2021 disgorgement. 100% Pinot Noir off the estate in Buxières-sur-Arce. I recall on one of my past visits to see Bertrand Gautherot, and his comment that there's never been a synthetic product put on his estate. I know that in the upper plot, where the other family member has some of the vines, there is chemical used up on that plot, and the soil looked dead, sorry, hopeless. Yet, within the V et S portfolio, there is the assurance of biodynamic practices, clean farming and no BS in the wines and the soils are alive, beautifully alive. The wines are never dosed, and I've yet to have a wine from the estate that tastes dried out or austere. Yeah, there's energy and sometimes it can run on a beam that feels firm but to me that's the spirit of the place and of the process for how these wines are regarded and made. I opened this bottle yesterday to start enjoying it, resuming the same effort today. I let the chill wear off on today's glass, to really gather a solid assessment. Lots to like here, as the wine is wrapped up in a solid palate of fruit. Bergamot orange, cranberry, lime pith, sour apple and some cumin. Yeah, and maybe that sounds pretentious in description but I'm trying to convey what I sense here, and these are the flavor markers that keep resonating for me. The finish has the sour apple and lime driving it, supported by a river rock impression. Man, these wines continue to drink right in my wheel house, they convey something spirited.

Posted from CellarTracker

[Al_Osterheld]

Oops, wrong thread.

-Al

[Sean_S_y_d_n_e_y]

Georges Remy Les Quatre Terroirs no. 20:

Disgorged March 2023, 73% PN, 27% Chardonnay. 2020 base with a small percentage of wines from 2019 & 2018. No dosage.

Was very interested to try this one, as I know the producer has a bit of buzz.

Upon opening a bit reticent and oxidative bruised apple-y, but after about 30 minutes of air it really fanned out into a lovely, much more complete Champagne. Assertive and deep, even sensual. The fruit seems rich and more than ripe enough to handle the lack of dosage. Lightly ginger-y, with the initial yellow fruits turning more red in the glass. Some oak influence. Indeed, a very “autumnal”, sweet-spice bent. Last glass was the best, so the improvement over two-ish hours indicates that it could benefit from more time in bottle. I try not to open Champagne until a year after disgorgement, but was too curious to wait.

Have two more and will keep them a couple years before giving it another go.

[ChrisJames]

@Frank_Murray_III

The wines are never dosed, and I’ve yet to have a wine from the estate that tastes dried out or austere.

Great note Frank. Have you ever had a V&S with age on it? I know that wouldn’t be a goal of yours, but I recall seeing comments (@Brad_Baker ?) on the aging Champagne thread that no dosage Champagne, and this producer in particular, are not aging well. I believe dried out and austere were exactly the terms used.

[Frank_Murray_III]

I have both Fidele and Argile back to 2014. Both my own notes and it would seem others in CT don’t suggest any challenge with aging. In context, both of these are at or just below a decade old so whether that is a verifier of age, I dunno. These wines are terrific (for me) in a fresh style and I may keep a single bottle of each millesime for kicks but otherwise I buy and drink these.

[M.Kaplan]

My first bottle of V&S was Argile at Arpege. At the time, Arpege cellared V&S wines at least a year before adding them to its wine list.

[ChrisJames]

And that is prudent whether for post-disgorgement integration or to settle any travel shock. But a year does not really equate to aging.

[M.Kaplan]

I agree that a year doesn’t count as significant aging. However, it was the only Champagne that Arpege treated this way; all others were added to the winelist on arrival, according to the then sommelier.

[Ryan_S]

@Sean_S_y_d_n_e_y

Georges Remy Les Quatre Terroirs no. 20

Not V&S, but when I picked up a no-dosage Marguet GC recently the shop suggested i cellar it for 2-3 years at least.

[AstridKG]

NV J.M. Labruyère Champagne Grand Cru Prologue
69%PN, 31%Ch from Verzenay and Verzy, disg. Jan 2023, Dosage .8g/L

PnP @ 54*, drank over 3 days. Pretty stable.

Color slight gold (color not well rendered in my photo). Small bead, not v. effervescent. Nose: lemon, pastry cream, sweet bread. Tastes of baked apple, a bit of browned apple, lemon curd, some almond. A bit of "roundness at the beginning, but the finish is bitter. The nose is really nice, and better than the taste.
It’s a decent value at $40, but I won’t repurchase because it was a bit nondescript.

NV José Michel & Fils Champagne Cuvée du Père Houdart
I believe this is 40%PN 40%PM 20%Ch, but the blend varies. Solera w/ at least 50% reserve wines dating back to the 1970’s. 50% from 2012 (or was it 2014?.. can’t find info). disg 8/2022, dosage 4g/L

PnP @ 59*, then drank over 3 days at varying temps.

Light gold. Practically no bead. This is an oxidative style, with a big nose of yeast and brown apple and, dare I say it, something slightly cheesy (only on 1st day). On the palate, lemon breme brûlée, candied fruit, dried berries, toasted nuts. This description sounds heavy, but it comes across as much fresher than the solera suggests. At the end of the long finish, there is something vaguely metallic. As a whole, this gave me fruitcake vibes even though it wasn’t sweet. Pretty consistent over the three days.

If you like an oxidative and bold style, this may be for you. I prefer the Special Club, even with the irritating fat bottle.

[ChrisJames]

What I am really looking for is if V&S Champagnes improve with 10-20+ years of age on them or if they are better drank closer to release.

[Tom_Won]

I’ve only had them back to R14 but there are no signs of the wines tiring. Fidele does seem to be more sensitive to storage as I’ve had some off bottles, but with proper cellaring both Fidele and Blanc d’argile could easily last 10+ years based on my limited experience.

That being said, the age does take some rough edges off Fidele and makes Blanc d’argile a lot more oxidative. So whether they are “better” after years of cellaring would really depend on your preference.

[scottkieser]

I am liking this better than the last go around, but I stand by my assertion the quality is not up to the moniker of Special Club. It is 100% Pinot Noir, spends 6 years on the lees, and is finished with a dosage of 4 grams per liter. I love its smoky and salty character, which together evoke soy/oyster sauce on both the palate and the nose. The fruit is on the subdued side, but asserted its citrus character after I drained about half the bottle. Subtle complexities underneath- pencil lead, anise, yogurt. The mousse is a little coarse, it lacks any real textural interest, and the finish is on the short side, but it carries a modest price tag. This is similar to Marie Courtin Resonance, but lacks the clarity and elegance of that wine. Good but not great.