Andre Clouet Un Jour de 1911… October 2022 disgorgement, 12 years on the lees (which I think means it was a 2010 base, but I’m not entirely sure). It might be a bit early, but I was curious to try. I found it more interesting than tasty. Very apple-y, with something I interpreted as fino sherry and almond paste. Quite dense in the mouth, a kind of weightiness that made it more vinous.
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Our monthly-ish group met last night. Our host this time was Paul, who had the gavel to curate the wines and pick the dining site. As is our group’s custom, we serve each flight blind, we then discuss the wines, with a reveal to compare some final thoughts.
The theme last night was not known at the outset but as we moved along, it became apparent we were doing within each flight the same producer, with the contrast being the producer’s QPR against the producer’s upper tier (or like with the Paul Bara and Benoit Marguet, their tete du cuvee).
For me, the best wines on the table with the Leclapart. The way those were built were to my liking, with the L’Apotre being my WOTN.
CHAMPAGNE BOOKCLUB (SERVED BLIND)--PAUL - Bricco Cucina in Laguna Niguel (6/29/2023)
All wines served blind. Pairs by producer, one bottle more QPR of the range and the other higher on the shelf.
David Leclapart
. Of note, the L'Artiste is probably not a good icon for QPR. I believe the wine is around $100US (or more).-
2013 David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru L'Artiste Blanc de Blancs Pas Dosé Trépail - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Served blind. 100% Chardonnay with no dosage, and certified biodynamic. I also think this cuvee is done in stainless. Orange citrus with a zesty tone. Lightly bruised apple. Finishes with lime and some austerity. Reminds me of some recent Larmandier-Bernier Terre de Vertus (the 2015). -
2013 David Leclapart Champagne Premier Cru L'Apôtre Blanc de Blancs Pas Dosé - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Served blind, next to the same vintage of DL L'Artiste. I much preferred this L'Apotre. 100% Chardonnay with no dosage, and certified biodynamic, done in wood. Apple, rye, citrus pith and a savory finish. It shows more body than the L'Artiste. Clean lemon finish. With air, and as the wine warmed up from the chill, retasted at the end of dinner and the slatey profile emerged, along with a gorgeous polish. My WOTN of the 8 we had blind.
Bereche
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NV Bérêche et Fils Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne
Served blind, alongside the Bereche vintage Cramant, and that wine at 3-4X the price doesn't suit me as well as this basic Brut Reserve. Disgorged December 2022, with 6 grams of dosage, a mix of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meuiner. Touch of peachy color, just a tinge to tell me it's there. Spicy, red fruit jam and stone fruit flesh. Spicy core, and enough spine to exhibit a delicious and lively profile. Haven't had this in a while and I really enjoyed it. -
2017 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Cramant - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Served blind, paired with the NV Bereche Brut Reserve. Disgorged July 2022, with 3 grams of dosage. Lemon zest candy, toast and fennel, plus some light caramel. The wine seemed round to me, good but not indicative of something that I think is over $150 US. Didn't have the complexity I was expecting. From this side by side, and for the significant price delta, give me the NV BR again for sure.
Marguet
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NV Marguet Champagne Grand Cru Shaman 18 - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Served blind, paired alongside the 2011 Marguet Sapience. When the Shaman hit the glass, I had kind of a gut feeling that we might be with Shaman. January 2022 disgorgement, no dosage. 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay. Just a touch of color (assume skin contact as I do not believe there is any still vin rouge added). Light herb (has the Marguet barrrique signature), red apple, lime that is zesty yet approachable. Good balance, feels complete and again affirming for me of why I like consistently Shaman. -
2011 Marguet Champagne Premier Cru Brut Nature Sapience - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
Served blind. July 2021 disgorgement, so about 10 years on the lees. 25% each of Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, 50% Chard (the composition coming from wines provided by Laval, Lahaye, and Leclapart). Have tasted the 2009 and 2012, both wines have been excellent. First time with 2011, and I kinda knew this was in the bag. The bottle shape is a give away, and considering the pairing (the theme was same producer, with one bottle QPR and the other top of the house), and knowing we had Shaman in the QPR slot against it, was a pretty easy guess. I called 2011, as this version of Sapience didn't have the power or concentration of the 2009 nor 2012. Instead, polished, with yellow fruit, tangy with some red fruit and the Marguet herb profile.
Paul Bara
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2012 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Comtesse Marie de France - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Served blind. Disgorged April 2022. 100% Pinot Noir with 8 grams of dosage and I think about 9 years on the lees. My buddy loves this wine and he has served it before to us. I like it but I just don't connect with how he experiences it. Lime and citrus, with some density. This was wine #7 on the night and I may have under-served my tasting of the wine, instead finding more connection to the wine it was paired against, which was the Bara Bouzy Brut Reserve. I preferred that wine over the more expensive Comtesse. -
NV Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Brut Réserve - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Served blind. Paired with the more expensive 2012 Bara Comtesse and in this flight, like that of the Bereche flight we did, I preferred the less expensive wine of the blind pairing. 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay with 7 grams of dosage and 6 years on the lees. Some lemon-lime yet it maintains good balance. It shows some nice power, too.
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I started buying this in 2015 at 52 CAD a bottle. It was our house Champagne. Last purchased in 2020 in Quebec, 72CAD. Next bottles coming in will be 78CAD (so I heard). I now realize that I bought all kinds of stuff while in France but no Jacques Lassaigne. This little chat will make me rectify that shortly (44 euros).
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Scott,
While I lamented my lack of fiscal restraint, my June haul was a good one. Lots of rare tête de cuvée magnums, and some Magdelaine. In my defense, I did sell and trade far more wine than I’ve bought recently. I’ve leveraged smart purchases which were overbought years ago into new purchases I’d normally pass up. But there I go again, rationalizing my irrational wine buying. Still, I’m a small fry compared to a bunch of you reading this!
I agree with @Frank_Murray_III; you last paragraph looks like a self-loathing Morrisey lyric.
Cheers
Warren
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It does read like a Morrissey lyric. Hilarious observation!
Your buying strategy reminds me I own same rare whiskey I don’t give a flying f$$k about. I should try to make some trades.
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This is Wine Connoisseurs circular economy! I.e. sell wine to buy more wine!
I picked up a bottle of the 2008 this afternoon, as I keep hearing people say it tastes like Comtes. I lack that frame of reference, of course.
I absolutely hate the entry level NV. I didn’t even like it at the Garagiste mystery wine pricing of $16.
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2020 Amaury Beaufort Champagne De Quoi Te Meles Tu? - France, Champagne (6/29/2023)
disgorged 9Nov22. 100% Pinot noir from grapes farmed by Loic Naudinot. 2700 bottles made. Nose is rich, with almost a sour candy note popping out. Tons of red apple, slight floral notes, nutty finish with a little key lime. There’s something matching the nose on the finish as well, but it plays well with the fruit. First impression I like this wine, will be interesting to see how it evolves.
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2019 Domaine de Bichery Champagne La Source Brut Nature - France, Champagne (6/29/2023)
50/50 Pinot noir and Chardonnay, bottle 3578 of 6399, no dosage. Green apple and floral notes on the nose. A bit muted taste on pop and pour, but the pear, apple and a bit of mango are starting to push through. 15 minutes in and it emerges so well. The fruit turns a little tropical on the finish, it’s fresh, delicious, balanced. Really amazing effort.
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Paul Gosset Winter
Last of the 4 seasons wines enjoyed over 5 days, great to try them together.
80% 2018, from Dizy, all Pinot Noir, 4g/L, 1399 bottles.
Like the other PN wine this was a little more mute, nice depth, seems like a little oak, needs time to unfurl.
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Over two nights. 2014 and 2015 Le Mont Benoit. 95% PN and 5% Chard. 2g/L
Both are very big powerful wines, maybe a little too intense now.
Lightly oxidative, quite regal in a way. Very long fine fruits.
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You’re on a tear, man.
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Holiday time!
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Last night - no detailed notes as we were at a friend’s house, but the perfect balance of freshness and aged complexity. These were (still are?) a steal.
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Opened nicely with a little air, disgorged 2019 bright acidity gotta say I liked this a lot with a shrimp cocktail on a hot day.
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Got me a winner tonight! Had added this bottle on a recent order and thought I would give it a try. It sat for a few months as I forgot about it, and then tonight I wanted to sit in the backyard and have a glass of something. Saw this in my CT inventory and grabbed it. Boom! What a bottle of Champagne this be. The parts on this are all working in unison, and the lift and spice conveyed from the oak works magic. Will finish tomorrow, gonna share with a few friends (because if I don’t plan for that, I’ll drain it and wonder why I did that to myself!)
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2016 Benoît Lahaye Champagne Grand Cru Extra Brut Millésime - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (6/30/2023)
Disgorged November 2021. 80% PN and 20% Chard from a single Bouzy plot called Le Mont de Tauxieres, which is a plot west of the village and almost on the far west boundary of the village's planted area. Certified organic, and I believe Benoit Lahaye is also now certified biodynamic. 3 grams of dosage here, too. Pours a little gold in tone. Ooh la la. Damn, this is good. The immediate sensory note was nutmeg, some dill and buttered almond, with some asian 5-spice. Went back for another pour. This time to lock in some fruit perceptions. Green apple, drizzled with some limoncello, and some cranberry in the background. As I worked through the second glass, I had this persistent thought 'this is a wine I just want to keep pouring and pouring'. It has a sexy core of spice, with the fruit and texture all working together. Been a while since a wine has lit me up like this one....a wow wine, and probably time to start a short list for WOTY, as this wine is going onto it. Bravo!
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Savart? Had the 2013 Mont Benoit and loved it. Sadly, out of my price range now - and seemingly very hard to find. I’m happy I can still find L’Accomplie.
This needed some time to open up. I’ve been wanting to try this for a bit. I really enjoy all of Billecart’s cuvées.
I didn’t think to much about this, at first it was ooo this is good. And then as it opened up it was woah this is just plain ol yummy.
Super balanced, can tell there’s a fair bit of dosage (7g/l) but it gives this wine weight and roundness. Confit oranges and apple pie on the palate. Long finish.
I don’t know the disgorgement of this bottle, but I’m curious to know so I’ll email them and update this.
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2004 Taittinger Comtes Rose.
Big bottle, big disappointment. I see positive TN’s from individuals and critics I respect, but this didn’t do it for us tonight. MB immediately commented “too soft and sweet”. I initially defended it, saying it was fruity, not sweet. I eventually concluded she was correct. It was sweet, flabby and unbalanced. No acidity or energy to balance the dense, sweet fruit. I’m sad to say this was one of my least enjoyable bottles in a long time, dashing high expectations after a nice bottle of the ‘07 three weeks ago. (How could the ‘07 so handily outperform the ‘04?) This was a magnum that would have done better at auction than at the table.
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Emille & Cie Reserve Personnelle:
I drank a half glass of this two nights ago and decided to put a stopper on it and see if it improved with slow aeration rather than dump it down the drain. It did improve, substantially, though it is by no means a fine wine. It put on a little weight, becoming light bodied instead of dilute, and the overwhelming bitterness from day one become a barely noticeable whisper. It had a touch of autolysis, a little apple, and a pleasant note of grapefruit on the finish. There is no universe in which I would purchase this again, but at least I was able to salvage this clunker and didn’t set $26 on fire.
Bouvet Signature:
I bought a couple bottles of this for $13, mostly out of a sense of nostalgia, as this was a wine I drank a lot of in the infancy of my wine loving journey and I haven’t had in nearly 20 years. I opened this the same night as the Emile, thinking anything would be better. It was worse. I put a stopper on this one as well and took a wait and see approach on this one also. It too improved substantially, though I still hated the first few sips tonight, absolutely shocked by the sugar content. I remember this as being a whole lot better. It probably wasn’t. I started my wine journey enamored of overly extracted fruit bombs like the Prisoner and Turley Juvenile. The sugar content was probably very appreciated at the time.
My palate ultimately adjusted to the shock of the sugar and I am finding it quite pleasant to sip. It has a tiny bit of Chenin character and a Prosecco like apple fruitiness. I won’t buy this again, and it’s a good reminder to be wary of nostalgic tendencies, but it’s pleasant enough for a simple evening at home after having worked up a thirst on a six mile brisk walk.
Better wine on the agenda tomorrow.
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