Hosted a charity wine tasting benefitting my wife’s United Way fundraising campaign. Started with a welcome champagne, then two BdBs so the guests could taste and compare a US “stud” bdb and a french stud bdb.
2014 Bollinger Grand Annee - 61% pinot/39% chard at 7-8g/l, classic Bollinger style with use of oak and oxidative vinification. This is a solid Bolly GA, but not a world beater. Still, good balance of flavors with spice, apple, ginger, lemon curd, croissant, and leesy notes. Upside is really bright acidity, more so than I recall in most GAs. It’s good, but perhaps lacking just a little sizzle. Still, a very nice wine. 94ish range, and maybe I’m being just a touch stingy as this has room to develop.
2017 Ultramarine Heinz Blanc de Blancs I just don’t really get it, folks. Prior iterations of these Ultramarine wines have been lush and enjoyable, even if needing perhaps a bit more verve. I’ve really not enjoyed these 2017s and wish I’d sold them all. I’m seeing crazy high scores on CT (disregard any note with “brioche,” trust me) and I don’t understand. The nose is dominated by kafir lime leaf, lime oil, green apple jolly rancher, and, if I’m being super generous, maybe a soft floral note and some kiwi. Acids are higher here than past vintages, but to me the wine and flavor profile is a big miss, with an almost green note and dominant kafir lime leaf distracting me from any real enjoyment. This would be a score in the 80s for me, which will move the needle zero, as these Ultramarines are pure gold to the fanboy club. And yes, I bought a full allocation + extended tirage offering for the next year. A glutton for punishment, I guess.
2008 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs This wine is stupendous, but rich and dense. Not the neutron star that is 2008 Cristal or 2002 Dom P2, but just big and rich and loaded with racy acidity. It’s packed with flavor and complexity and a gloriously chardy delivery with unbuttered popcorn, shortbread cookie, lemon, jazz apple, orange blossom, yeasty dinner roll, hint of spice. Long and complex, and the profile is just so spot on. Goodness gracious it’s majestic. My wine of the night. 97ish.
2008 Dom Perignon
2008 Cristal
2008 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne
Those, for me, are the three superstars of a wonderful vintage. Wines that I’ll just stomach the horrifyingly climbing prices to buy.