Cheese in Champagne is typically due to full malolactic in high malic acid years. It is, sadly, not as strange as it sounds. And Larmandier-Bernier is full malo style IIRC from last time we did a Zoom with Arthur.
Explanation:
Just as an aside, it’s interesting to consider the question of malolactic in Champagne from the perspective of aromas as well as of perceptible acidity. If some of the high-malic musts of yesteryear had actually completed their malolactic fermentation, the resulting wines could easily have ended up rather “cheesy”. There are some 2008 and 2013 white Burgundies that are too overtly lactic in profile for my taste. As malic acid levels in the fruit at harvest trend lower in recent years, this is much less of a potential issue.
Examples:
1996 Henri Giraud Champagne Fût de Chêne - France, Champagne cave aged grueyre note. The rich, round palate certainly has some elevated dosage and a real cheesy finish . A very layered and multi-dimensional wine that clearly shows the oak ageing and oxidative leanings. (93 pts.)
1996 Henri Giraud Champagne Fût de Chêne - France, Champagne cheese cave central! Mature gruyere , earth, mushroom, umami, beef broth, bovril, blood, and wet dog are all wrapped around citrus, honey and nutty flavours. Beguiling nose.gruyere and apple cider.(93 pts.)
What’s interesting is that 2018 is supposed to be a low acid year. Maybe Arthur picked very early to try to keep higher acids and ended up with too much malic for full malo.
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