Which Champagne are you drinking?

Extracted from a thread just posted: An epic day and dinner with the Orange County contingency with many fabulous wines including 2006/2008 Comtes, 2008 DP P2, 2011 Bouchard CC, a nice Chennin, 3 fine Pinots, a fab Barolo, 2010 Copain Syrah and 2018 SQN Ziehharmonika Syrah

2006 TAITTINGER COMTES de CHAMPAGNE BLANC de BLANC- I’ve had many a bottle of this fabulous champagne and most of the more recent bottles were showing more maturity with more complexity and a fruit profile beyond citrus with honeyed yellow apple most prevalent, but this bottle was reminiscent of the earlier releases being more about elegance, finesse and charm; I loved it; following its lemon yellow color came inviting aromas of toasty brioche laden lemon and lime that continued all the way to the back end where it finished with the consistency of all before it; it had a fine bead, a frothy mousse and was in perfect balance. This was a fitting treat to the end of a fun and enjoyable game of golf with the guys on a bluebird day.


Chris Seiber and Brig Campbell

2008 TAITTINGER COMTES de CHAMPAGNE BLANC de BLANC- served blind to the others; I expected this to showcase more of what the vintage is all about with loads of energy, power and complexity as many of the earlier bottles displayed, but if anything, it was the antithesis; the light yellow color was the first clue and then the somewhat muted nose confirmed it with mild aromas of lemon, green apple and pear devoid of the delicate toastiness previously experienced; the taste profile was more of the same and was also devoid of the autolytic fatness of past bottles thus resulting in a light weight texture; James Suckling has called this “the greatest Comtes ever”, but he didn’t have this bottle.

I put my glass aside and went back 30 minutes later and now some of the more expected attributes were starting to express, but it was too late on an evening with many more wines to go. Some in the group had it as a blend from a small grower and some had it from a big house. Astrid called it Comtes out of the gate.

BTW, I do not think this was an individual bottle variation, but more of a timing issue catching this in a shut down phase before it climbs out of the valley and reaches toward the peak.

2008 DOM PERIGNON P2- served blind by Astrid who graciously brought it; this is comprised of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir and was disgorged in March 2024 with a dosage of 5 gpl; it spent 15 years on the lees and as such, expressed some oxidative notes without being oxidized; after that, I would have expected the color to have a darker hue, but it was light yellow; the nose offered super pleasing aromas of brioche laden citrus fruit which on the palate translated into ripe and focused lemon lime soda with a twist of orange and a sprinkle of hazelnut and a coat of honey; initially it was pointed out that there was some reductive notes with a sulfur residue, but it blew off and left us with pure gold; it featured bright acidity and great mouthfeel which enhanced the finish which deposited a hint of chalk on the back palate.

During there identification process, I actually thought this was more likened to what the 2008 Comtes should have been expressing, but then again, I had another thought or three and included 2008 Dom Ruinart in the mix of choices.

Cheers,
Blake

8 Likes