Extracted from a thread just posted re a recent fabulous dinner in Amsterdam: A fabulous dinner in Amsterdam with 2 local wine guys with champagne and wines from 1934, 1966, a white and red Burgundy and a Barolo
When I was first seated at the table, I was poured a glass of champagne:
NV GOSSET EXTRA BRUT- i immediately thought of one of my blind tasting group members in Santa Barbara who loves acidity in wines as this was very acidic while sporting a yellow gold color and a fruit profile of primarily pear and bruised green apple from the nose on through; it had a quite noticeable amount of weight and body and was very yeasty; when I looked this release up, I discovered it was made especially for the restaurant trade and is a blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay and 23% Pinot Meunier, sees no ML, spends 36 months on the lees and is dosed at 5 gpl.
Three of us opted for a champagne off the restaurant wine list that was highly recommended by the Somm, Eelke Leeuwerink, who knew and coordinated this in advance with our 3rd member, frequented out table, was very knowledgeable and performed superb wine service.
He informed us, the producer is one of those under the radar, up and coming houses that has been crafting some consistently fabulous champagnes of late, is now becoming much more recognized and like most others, the prices will be going up. Here is some info from the Domaine’s website:
“Founded by Aurélien Suenen, representing the 4th generation of a line of winemakers, Domaine is renowned for its Champagnes of exceptional quality, reflecting the unique terroir of Côte des blancs.
The family history dates back to Edmond, who began cultivating vines at Cramant in the early 20th century. His son, Georges, consolidated the family wine business, and it was under the guidance of his grandson, Aurélien, that Domaine underwent a significant transformation.
Aurélien, a passionate and visionary winemaker, took the reins of Domaine at the beginning of the 21st century. Driven by the desire to produce Champagnes of exceptional elegance, he has combined the traditional know-how inherited from his family with modern, environmentally-friendly viticultural practices.
The Domaine covers around 8 hectares, mainly located in the prestigious Côte des blancs, renowned for its chalky soils and climate conducive to white grape varieties. The vines, mainly planted with Chardonnay, benefit from ideal exposure, favoring optimal ripening of the grapes.
The philosophy is rooted in the principle of terroir purity. Yields are kept low to ensure optimum concentration of aromas, and vinification is carried out by plot to capture the subtle nuances of each lieu-dit.
Aurélien Suenen favors non-interventionist winemaking methods, allowing the terroir to express itself fully in the wines. Fermentations are often carried out with indigenous yeasts, adding an extra dimension to the aromatic complexity.”
Our bottle was indeed superlative:
NV SUENEN CHAMPAGNE BLANC de BLANC GRAND CRU ORY- this was aged on the lees from 24-36 months and dosed at 4 gpl; following its light yellow color came aromas of fresh citrus fruit with a hint of honey which continued on once tasted to be more specifically lemon and grapefruit; it was clean, crisp and wonderful and seemed to gain richness while rounding out; I loved the bright acidity and the palate cleansing effect it had as well; we kept returning to it over the course of the evening and it just got better and better and I left with this being the last taste to enjoy on the walk back.
Proost,
Blake