When will we see First Growth "spoofilation?"

WINE TALK
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I think it was partly in jest, but in truth, some of the wineries that make these so-called “higher-end cuvees” do in fact spoof them with more than just megapurple. For example, some change their regular oak regime, use more or all new oak, oak longer. Etc. Granted, I suspect that the First Growths likely all use predominantly new oak. At least that’s the way I use the term, “spoof,” an exaggerated or overly-manipulated bottling.

One of my favorite wineries, Sociando Mallet, made a special cuvee that is actually damn nice:

Chateau Sociando Mallet, Cuvee Jean Gautreau

in 1995, Sociando Mallet produced a special wine that was at the time, intended to only be produced in that one vintage, Sociando-Mallet Cuvee Jean Gautreau. The wine was made from a barrel selection and was aged in 100% new, French oak barrels. To produce the wine, Jean Gautreau pulled the eighty best barrels from over 1,500 barrels.

Those barrels were aged separately. Then, out of those 80 barrels, Gautreau pulled what he considered the top 15 barrels. Those 300 cases were bottled for his own pleasure and were not originally intended for sale.


Read more at:> Learn about Chateau Sociando Mallet Haut Medoc, Complete Guide

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Robert – I recently had the 2003 SM “Jean Gautreau”, as a blind ringer thrown in with some real hitters, and it was out of this world. Stunning to the First Growth crowd. Not many out there, but worth pursuing.

As to the original question – an interesting one – if an increasing % of buyers at the Highest End are motivated primarily by prestige and status, or in Ec speak have inelastic demand, then why not give it to them, at a much higher price? And make that price so much higher, and volume so much lower, that there can be no brand dilution of the “normale”.

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The bottom line is that there will always be folks who want something ‘limited’ or ‘special’. The question is how much more of a premium they will be willing to pay for this. Will this happen with First Growths? Not sure. Can it? You betcha . . .

24

Mouton 2000 and Margaux 2015 show the potential here - a fancy bottle makes a huge difference to the price.

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I was also thinking of responding that, by definition, First Growths are spoofed (e.g. - oodles of new oak, reverse osmosis, etc).

Either way, I still contend that Anton is shooting blanks in this thread. :smiley:

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Already has happened

COS100

27

Well they also promoted the trash-tier Pavie to the same level as Cheval Blanc

28

Thank you for sharing this. I had not heard of the wine before now. Following is a link to the chateau’s website with all the details (except the pricing which is “on request”.)

To quote from just one of the paragraphs discussing the wine, “The rarity of this unprecedented 2015 vintage and the exceptionality of the large format bottles make COS100 a true collector’s item, to be enjoyed by only a handful of the most privileged connoisseurs.”

That is about the most blunt statement of luxury for its own sake that I have ever read. I assume I am not the only one completely turned off by how this wine is being marketed.

29

Thanks for sharing, and it’s a great example. 100% merlot from a left bank wine?

“Composed exclusively of Merlot harvested in 2015 exclusively from the iconic “Parcelle des Femmes,” COS100 is an exceedingly precious and rare wine.”

30

Wow.

I had never heard of that, either!

Guess I should have asked last year.

31

This isn’t “spoofilation,” but I’ve always wondered if some of the prestige brands might create more offerings under their label. Suppose a First Growth made a good chardonnay - I can imagine there would be a market and an aggressive price point for Lafite Rothschild chardonnay.

Thinking it through, if you planted a chardonnay plot in Bordeaux (and I wouldn’t be surprised if you couldn’t make at least a good chardonnay somewhere in Bordeaux if you knew what you were doing), I guess you might just have to call it Bordeaux and not, say, Pauillac or Margaux? Or could you not label it Bordeaux at all since chardonnay is not one of the grapes allowed under the designation? In any event, the first growth label would give it all the prestige it needed, like with premiere Super Tuscans.

32

Yea pretty gross. Color me shocked that they are not selling it with this other obnoxious “100” product:

Odd to package a 100% merlot from a Northern Medoc Chateau whose wines are generally 65% or so Cabernet.

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Presumably in the “aren’t you precious” sense of the word.

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The wine, of which 50 cases are made is sold as a generic Saint Estephe. Also, the money is being donated to a charity. It is a one-off collectible for a good cause.

FWIW, the vines are some of the oldest Merlot vines in all of Bordeaux on deep clay soil. I imagine it is a good wine, but I was not able to taste it. The proceeds from COS100 will go to the charity, Elephant Family, that is devoted to protecting and nurturing Asian elephants in their own, natural habitat.

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It’s a shame, Jeff that Cos did not incorporate its philanthropic aim here in its write-up. Instead, the slick and glossy website, evocative of what has become of the wine itself, is a testament to pomposity. Perhaps something was said about the “cause” in that videoclip, but I could not get myself to watch.

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Never watched the film or looked at their site until today. You are right, they should have included it. In the other hand, you can always read my site for the down and dirty details :slight_smile:

I suspect that the First Growths likely all use predominantly new oak.

Saw this earlier and forget to add that all the 1855 red First Growth wines are aged in 100% new oak.

Because Chardonnay is not an allowable grape, the wine would be sold as a Vin de France. A few producers are making Chardonnay, or including it in their white wine blend, and those wines are sold as a Vin de France.

du Tertre in Margaux uses some Chardonnay in their blend for Tertre Blanc.

Clos Dubreuil in Saint Emilion makes a 100% Chardonnay.

d’Aiguilhe in Cotes de Castillon has a parcel of Chardonnay vines they will soon produce wine from.

Hubert de Bouard of Chateau Angelus makes Le Chardonnay.

A few others might also use Chardonnay.

Chateau Palmer in Margaux produces a small amount of Palmer Historic, which blends Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah in select vintages, the wine is a Vin de France.

In 2019, a leading Pomerol will release about 24 cases, 1 barrels of 100% Merlot made from their oldest vines from the 2009 vintage. The wine was aged in special barrels that were sold to benefit charity. Having tasted this twice, it is a contender for wine of the vintage.

The wine, will be sold in OWC 3 packs to select, long-time friends and customers of the chateau. You might find a few bottles also donated to auctions for charity.

37

I think the ones in Bordeaux that are going to target the mega wealthy will not be traditional chateaux, because of the constraints of the 1855 Classification.

It’ll be producers like Liber Pater, and they’ll go in the direction of SQN, ultra allocated etc etc.

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Liber Pater is already in contention to be the most expensive wine in Bordeaux on release with prices that rival Petrus ! However, very little wine is made, usually closer to a few hundred cases per vintage, if it is produced at all. It is an interesting story… https://www.thewinecellarinsider.com/bordeaux-wine-producer-profiles/bordeaux/graves-pessac/liber-pater/

39

I agree. Even though this is a side point, it still should be corrected for others who may not know.

40

I always enjoy and learn from your posts about Bordeaux, Jeff. Thanks again.

Have you tried any of those standalone chardonnays? I have always figured you could probably make at least good chardonnay in Bordeaux.

Again, if, say, Lafite could make a low 90s quality chardonnay under their label, even if it’s labeled Vin de France, I could easily see it selling for $100-150 or more a bottle, maybe a lot more.