The 97 is stellar…I think the 90 and 88 have more development ahead but are tasty. The 89 I had was also ready. I agree about the 2003s being under-rated. I think that they will be hefty, delicious wines in the dessert style with time.
As to the change in style, I read that Yquem was cutting back on the barrel aging from 32 months to 24 months (something like that) because they wanted to capture more of the “freshness”. I hope to live to see the outcome of their “experiment”. But it seems that in order to get to market sooner, they are bottling sooner, which would make this an economic decision rather than one made in the best interests of quality. I would need to know the bottling history of Yquem going back a long time to make that statement stick. Did they only keep the 1921 in oak for 24 months? The 1937? I don’t know. If anyone has more information I would greatly appreciate it.
By the way, if the lur Saluces family is no longer involved, can they still use the coronet on their label? Or is it just meaningless?
Try to separate these three is very tough, I doubt if any wine in the world had a string like d’Yquem did on those three vintages. Personally, I would hold the 90 and 88 and pop the 89 now, it is in a very good place right now. Any of these would give a lot of pleasure now.
Think 1995 d’Yquem is drinking well if looking within the last 20 years. Outside of that, tasted a 1990 d’Yquem in 5L this past week, incredibly young, would not open, at least in this format anytime soon! Of the more modern vintages, do not think I have had a better d’Yquem than the 1988.