What Spanish whites have rocked you?

WINE TALK
21

Definitely try one. I tried the wine, then read the man’s story. He sounds like and looks to be madman. [cheers.gif]

http://www.jancisrobinson.com/files/images/AssortedOct11/.resized_300x451_EmilioRojoLR.jpg

22

Ossian is very good and the very limited cuvée Captal is even better - Neal Martin compares it to Coche Dury.

23

Given all the Tondonia suggestions I thought I should point out that while I love them I definitely find them to be made in a somewhat oxidative style. Not as pronounced as some but it’s there.

24

You won’t be disappointed with Emilio Rojo. I was about to list the 2006 Ribeiro blanco. It is actually still quite nice.

25

I would add that (a) there is a fair deal of bottle variation and (b) the oxidative aroma often blows off. If you’re highly averse to oxidative scents, there is a risk you wouldn’t like these. But if you’re willing to gamble – and give the wine some decanting or time in the glass – they are wonderful wines. (I generally don’t like oxidized smells and tastes, but these wines don’t go past my threshold and I love them.)

26

Morgadio Albarino - consistently great year after year and a great value to boot.

Agree with the rec for the Ametzoi rubentis; one of my go-to roses each summer and killer with salty tapas.

27

LdH Gravonia
it’s less oxidative than the Tondonia, and sometimes doesn’t present as oxidative at all.

if Sherry is game (and it should be!), then numerous options abound.

28

I recently had the 81, 87 and 91 of the Tondonia Gran Reserva at a tasting, and they were truly exceptional. They stood out as many people’s favorites in a tasting dinner that included a dozen other heavy hitters like 90 Leroy Clos de Vougeot. We also revisited them after hours in the glass after the reds, and they continued to transform in fascinating ways.

I’ve had other LdH whites, and I’ve consistently thought they were fantastic.

29

The only Spanish white that’s ever rocked me in the manner of a complex, aged Burgundy is the Tondonia Reserva or Gran Reserva. I acknowledge a slight oxidative note - and I do love oxidative wines - but it’s the freshness of these wines that I love most. That said, I wouldn’t drink 'em with tapas.

It’s not simply the complexity that the oxidative quality adds, but the overall complexity and forcefulness of the wine. Great with simply grilled, meaty-textured fish, or cod al pil pil, even some traditionally prepared kokotxas. But with the large variety of vying flavors and textures that is modern tapas? No. I just don’t think a wine like that works. And, fwiw, it’s totally non traditional to pair such a wine with tapas.

For me, it’s very much like the way a village Chablis often pairs more nicely with oysters than its Grand Cru sibling. The intensity and depth of flavor in the GC - especially an aged one - doesn’t play as nicely with the subtleties of the oyster, intensifying a sense of unwanted “fishyness” in the brinier examples, or obscuring the mild nuances in the subtler, Japanese type ones. Or the way a lighter red bourgogne can handle a series of courses that might go red or white, whereas a more distinctive Chambolle might chafe a bit against the flavors of one or the other course.

So, for Barcelona style seafood tapas, I’d go with a cava of no grand distinction, one that’s fresh and refreshing and otherwise doesn’t get in the way of the food.

For pintxos of the Basque style, I’d stick with tradition and get a similarly refreshing, non obtrusive Txakoli. Ameztoi is widely available, and you can practice your overhead-to-back-pocket pour (or give it the mollydooker shake). Even with the many pintxos that read more as red wine food - the ubiquitous foie creations, the veal cheeks, or the grand variety of suckling pig parts - the Basque typically favor a basic Crianza.