How recently were you there? Are they still doing the NY theme thing, where you get a whole story with every dish (or something like that)? Sounded pretty hokey to me, but I haven’t experienced it.
Glad you enjoyed it.
I’ve been once after they started the NY theme thing and was turned off by it. Yes, very hokey, but I guess great for pandering to tourists.
I was there exactly one year ago. I don’t particularly recall a NY theme, but there were some entertaining courses. Everything was delicious and beautifully presented.
I agree. A lot of it is for show. I remember them opening a 1996 Barolo with heated tongs that cut through the glass. I asked what they were doing. They said they used that technique for old wines to bypass the fragile corks.
Having said that I like their wine list. I wish I could get Per Se food and ambiance with the EMP wine list. The Per Se wine list is the sucks price wise.
Just checked their website. Only option listed is a 12-15 course tasting menu for $225. Sigh. Not my cup of tea–I just don’t like that many courses! Strangely, they say lunch is 12-1:00, but that’s nowhere near enough time for such a big meal–maybe that’s just when they let people in. Looking a little further, I see that you can also eat (dinner only? wasn’t clear) in the bar area a la carte, which allows much more choice, same kitchen of course, and considerably cheaper options. It’s quite comfortable there, apparently. Downside is it’s first come first served, but according to the article you generally don’t have to wait very long.
Thanks again for the great advice everyone.
Overall, it is really a great dining experience. Service was outstanding, very nice conversations with both our captain, the maitre d and our somm. Nothing too disneyesque, no pushing the NYC element of things too much. Good food, some amazing dishes (duck, foie, mushroom) some misses (scallops/truffles, oyster pie, goat/sheep chocolates). I would strongly recommend the restaurant to people looking for french influenced modern-ish cuisine. Its a long dinner though. We were there from 715-1200 but never felt antsy to leave…
As far as the wine, the Somm, Dev came right over to help out. He steered me away from both of the set wine parings and instead we went with a bottle and some supplemental glasses.
Started with a glass of the bereche and fils bubbly, which was tasty.
Then moved in to a bottle of 1992 Nigl Privat Reserve.
Really amazing bottle. I’ve had limited experience with older riesling in general, and those that I have had have all been alsacian or german (mosel). I had a 2003 Hirsh Kamptal that was meh and expensive (~$60 at retail), so I didn’t know what to expect from this relatively expensive bottle ($185 EMP list). Dev was pretty excited about the bottle so i took a chance. I poured him a nice taste when we opened it up so he could enjoy it too.
Beautiful color on the wine, a clear yellowish white that showed age, but still was pretty light in appearance.
Just enough fruit, just enough sweetness, beautiful minerality and the acidity to hold it all together.
Had a glass of the Domaine La Suffrene Bandol 1998 with the duck and it was very nice. Gamey, open, wild, juicy, still some rough tannins, long delicious finish.
For dessert they poured a boytrisized Hermann J Weimer noble select Josef vineyard (part of the food menu) that was just delicious…a little sweet and could have used a touch more acidity, but I would drink a bottle of this for dessert and never complain…probably not for aging though.
Evening ended with a pour of Kirayudvar tokaji…nothing memorable but good.
Overall wine cost was 284 (not including tax and gratuity). Expensive, and truly a large mark up for many of the wines there, but at least the Nigl was delicious and somewhat rare (I’ve never seen older vintages of it around), so I was happy in the end.
Glad you had fun. Dev is a great somm. If you want to go a bit crazy they will coravin most things on the list and create amazing custom pairings. I’ve been going regularly for a while and am a local. It got a bit too kitschy for a bit but most of that is gone now. Been very impressed my last few trips.
Glad it worked out well, Jesse. We’ll have to try it again sometime.
This.
I will never go back. I know others rave, but to me the emperor has no clothes. Was there about 4 years ago.