Many here will have fond memories of this lunch-only spot tucked away on the outskirts of Laddoix-Serrigny en route to Beaune. For us it has been a habitual and highly anticipated first stop at the start of our Burgundy adventures over the years. It is always a bit cool and gloomy inside (I can’t recall ever seeing a fire going in the large fireplace) but that is more than made up for by the fine simple fare and the availability of very well-priced Coche and Meo Camuzet on the chalk board winelist.
On our most recent visit in mid-October the sense of displacement from jet lag just served to emphasise how quirky this old relais de chasse is - it is madly atmospheric, like something out of time and transposed from a different age. Mme Maratray came out for a chat as we were devouring the simply prepared St Jacques, her marvellous cuisse de canard confites with duck fat chips and the boeuf bourguignon and announced that she will close up shop and retire at the end of October. My French is not the best but between expressions of dismay from all at our table I gathered that she and her husband will renovate the Auberge as their abode but that she is hanging up her poele a frire and that the restaurant will be no more. A 2012 Coche Meursault village and 2002 Meo Vosne Romanee Chaumes were drinking very well but were elevated further by the poignancy of a last meal.
2012 Coche-Dury Meursault
Lemon oil and some tell-tale struck match. There is real density to the lemon and yellow stone fruit palate which is packed to the gunnels in a medium bodied frame. Long finish with good cut. Bags of life left.
2002 Meo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Chaumes
This took a while to open up. Ripe cherry and savoury spice on the nose. The palate has ripe black cherry character, is sweet and soft and the tannins seem resolved. Charming and complete but for my palate lacking the lift and energy that might suggest a lot of development and upside.