Would be curious to hear what Selosse says. Anselme and Guillaume have been using mostly the same dosage in their Champagnes, I believe it’s generally in the 0-4 range. I’ve had bottles of vintage Selosse from the 80s, and they certainly age, but I’m not aware of the dosage varying massively. From my limited discussions with Guillaume (I’ve never spoken to Anselme except in passing and the one time we got him to disgorge a bottle of rose for us), he’s never really discussed dosage, and I’ve not asked.
Don’t these use a lot of lees in the production of their wines though?
Slightly lesser known houses of Philipponnat and Mandois definitely do and their nicer champagnes are actual monsters and are not enjoyable anytime soon. The Clos de Goisses is absolutely impossibly acidic if you want to drink current vintage.
I think part of the thing that makes wine age is how pleasant are they to drink today? If a wine feels unbalanced with the levels of acidity, tannin, sweetness, etc. I often think to myself either some decanting or aging would really improve the wine.
This entire time I was thinking about fortified wines and how some of the very oldest wines have been known to been slightly fortified. I do wonder if higher abv effects aging because I’ve heard alcohol is considered volatile and not sure if 1-2% in a bottle of Champagne even matters or not.
I was specifically referring to the Selosse wines (both father and son).
In the case of Cedric Bouchard, I’ve thought that since his wines are riper that might be why I enjoy them quite a bit.
I don’t know but the wines are so oxidative that I’m not sure their experience would translate to other wines.
Not following what you mean by “other wines”?
Frankly, I only like the Anselme wines when they are fresh. To your point, the oxidation gets in the way as they age, and strips away what I think some of the most interesting parts of their wines are.
Champagnes other than Selosse. Very few others that I’ve had are so oxidative.
Ah, yes, agreed.
Even the folks that worked for Selosse (Collin, Prevost, Fallon, etc) make super clean wines.
I guess they aren’t fans of the oxidation either!
We had a bottle of Prevost Esperluette at San Sabino last night that nice and clean. I don’t feel obligated to buy a bottle off the list when I am bringing wine, but it was attractively priced at $275.
Collin did a stage at Selosse, he’s not really much of a Selosse acolyte. Fallon certainly makes wine in a style similar to Selosse, those wines are quite oxidative.
I think Selosse uses a fair amount of lees, but not sure if that effects the aging and the dosage question in particular.
I had the most recent disgorgement of Fallon when we were in LA (two bottles actually), and it’s starting to taste more like Collin…very delineated and mineral.
And the US importer has milked that stage for Collin in the early days for sales
Did you have the Avysia or the Ozanne? They’re made differently. The Ozanne is oxidative.
Oh, associating anyone with Selosse is a way to try to sell wines, I totally get that. I don’t begrudge any importer their sales language. Same way that Boisson-Vadot (now Anne and Pierre) are “Coche acolytes” even though the Boisson wines aren’t reductive anymore…and Coche hasn’t been made in a reductive style for a decade. But, details
Ozanne!
Interesting - the last few I’ve had have been quite oxidative. Maybe I’ll pull one.