I think the better question to ask might be what are the benchmark Chardonnay VINEYARDS rather than who the benchmark Chard is, for Aubert would not be a potential benchmark without his vineyard sources, but the greatest vineyard sources can often be benchmarks without any particular winemaker. My vote goes to either of the following two…
Hudson (Carneros): Aubert, Hobbs, Ramey.
Thieriot (Sonoma Coast): Rivers Marie, Neyers, Littorai
Has to be Mount Eden SCM Estate for their year-to-year consistency and track record for aging.
I had a '92 last week that was nothing short of spectacular.
Aubert has a Hudson? I don’t think so, not recently anyway.
Both Ramey and Aubert make superb Chardonnays from the Ritchie Vineyard.
The Hyde vineyard is Ramey’s best source IMO, and Patz & Hall (if not others) has had a perennial Hyde bottling. Isn’t there a Kistler Hyde as well?
What about Ridge Monte Bello? The 2003 is profound.
I’ve never had a Marcassin or the more expensive PM or Kistler wines, but from the rest, I’m going with Aubert for that big America benchmark trip even as my buying habits have shifted towards more acids and minerals. The Auberts are still magnificent no matter what.