Golly!
Fascinating - a vintage port bottled in '79, still holding up - I opened an '80 Kopke last night that was delicious (though bottled in 2021) - spurs me to keep finding older bottles
Itâs so good. I also crush these every year
Vintage port is pretty bulletproof. Itâs also up there with Sauternes for best qpr on the secondary market - no one wants stickies these days and so there is no real age premium. Vintage ports from good years that are ready to drink (like 77 and 85) sell for substantially less than current release price.
Unfortunately I have the same issue that the rest of the market does, which is that I find it hard to come up with occasions to open them! Basically only for dinner parties and holidays, and sometimes even for those a big portion of the bottle goes unconsumed bc after a cocktail, dry wine with dinner etc ppl donât want a big pour of fortified wine.
Yes indeed. I would go further and offer that 77 in particular is really just entering its prime drinking window and has decades, or years, ahead of it. I recall a 77 Fonseca that we had 4 years ago that took 3 days in the decanter to really show its stuff. My (limited) experience of 85 is that it is not as backward as 77 and is probably equally ready despite being 8 years younger. FWIW we still have a couple of 1963s that I am not that concerned about: only the most recent 63 Cockburn that we had showed any signs of senioritis.
As you say the problem is finishing them. Luckily with a good 77 you have easily 2 days, maybe 3, in the decanter to slowly work your way through it.
I donât drink port super widely but I think the only 85 I have had that I thought was clearly just barely ready and should best be left alone another span of years was Fonseca. Thats a wine that I think will see the 85 babies through to retirement and onward.
85 Grahamâs and Warreâs both seemed ready to go. Dowâs is awesome as well but of this trio the one I think has the most runway.
2022 Le Vieux Sage hy Catharina Saade
âIncredible freshness and balance. Great energy here, especially for the vintage. It has that signature airy texture but with plenty of depth. Drinking dangerously well right now.
I think port is a much harder sell than Sauternes. There are a lot of half bottles of Sauternes which are perfect for 4-6 ppl, if you donât want to open a full bottle. port also canât be kept after opening like a true spirit too.
Probably true - lucky for me I like Port better ![]()
(Not that Iâd kick Sauternes out of bed!)
On the gentle decline, fruit just holding on, tannins mostly gone, held together at this stage by acidity. Actually a very pleasant light bodied old school claret. Some cigar box on the nose, light bodied with pale red fruits and a whisp of tannins and nice acidity. As a lover of old wines, I am definitely enjoying this. Lovers of big ripe fruited wines will be definitely underwhelmed. A wine of quiet gentle charm for me. Actually pretty good for the chateau and the vintage
Not the most successful evening.
2022 J-M Pillot Chassagne-Montrachet - very mineral driven with only a subtle hint of stone and orchard fruits. Very limited oak. Itâs quite enjoyable now, but a bit simple for what should be a good village wine. I wouldnât rush out to buy more of this, plenty of better wines for this price or below.
Two bottles of the 2017 Y Clerget Volley Santenots were bad, obviously poorly stored and probably explains why they were available. The 1996 Lamarche Les Chaumes was also totally gone, I knew this was a risk purchase.
Fell back on a 2021 M-G VR with a side by side of the 2021 Saint-Sebaste Clos de la Perrière a well rated Pinot from Western Switzerland. Due to the failure with the other wines, both were pop and pour. Iâve had the M-G VR earlier this year after some airtime and it was magnificent but it definitely needs that airtime - this was certainly very enjoyable, but it was much oakier and the fruit wasnât as showy. It was great putting the Saint-Sebaste side by side - its a really good wine, shows up very well on the nose and the refinement in the mouth, but then the M-G really shows its quality with its depth and long finishâŚ
2014 Aston Estate Pinot Noir
In a great spot and drinking beautifully, if you like this richer style. Tannins mostly resolved, rich style with ripe fruit and tobacco.
That sucks. Iâve had some advanced bottles as well
Nice nose of red berries, sweet spices and slight earthiness. The palate is lacking a little concentration with the fruit fading to give way to some tertiary presence. It feels slightly over the hill because the fruit didnât stand up to time and the structure doesnât warrant more cellaring. Okay.
Can you enjoy Bouchères while waiting for Genevrières to be ready? My conclusion is yes. Very focused, yet itâs as if it opens up and gets ready to play. The seductive floral and citrus-driven nose is complemented, like in a symphony, by subtle buttery and nutty notes. Nothing is over the top.
On the palate we again have a beautifully harmonious symphony. Perfectly ripe mirabelle and delicious fresh lemon curd stand out, but no matter which notes I mention here, the common denominator is the acid structure that both carries and weaves everything together. The beginning is actually very focused, but the richness slowly unfolds with impressive confidence.
The acidity, however, is absolutely insane, and at no point does the wine become heavy or bloated in its richness. Towards the end the acidity even gives a final snap, just to tighten things up with a seriousness that hints at whatâs to come. A tremendous experience.
This was IMO wonderful. I think it was around 2800Y and the guy at Takashimayaâs basement market (holy shit, what a market) poured me an offering from the same brewery at 12K Y/750 and while it was definitely more refined and elegant I enjoyed the profile of this one. I donât really do descriptors but this site pretty much nails it.
Christmas decoration fuel ![]()
Lafon - I actually opened this the night before, barely touched it. Phenolic, structured, acidic, and tightly wound - I gave up on this after 3 hours and let it spend the night in the fridge to think about its ornery performance. Bang what a day makes - flint and deft oak on the nose acidity had integrated and made way for a spicy mineral finish ![]()
Berthaut-Gerbet - bang bang this has an epic nose of rose petals, sous bois, Vosne spice and cherrys - this fills the room. High toned pixelated red fruit, chai spice and a long finish. Thereâs a reason AmĂŠlie Berthaut believes this is one of her top wines - what a treat.
Home cooking and nice wines
Anne Boisson Bourgogne Blanc 2020 - so lovely, great balance, mini meursault flavors, less intensity but high salvation score
Cathiard Vosne 2011 - a larger scaled wine than expected from a 2011. Deep underforest, spice and complex fruit in the nose. Nice follow-up in the mouth, deep, complex a great match for the food. Nice now, but will keep the rest of my bottles a bit longer
Cos dâEstournel 2008 (demi) - spice, cedar, tobacco, blackberries, black currants - intense. Concentrated in the mouth, mellowing out, long and satisfying. Still a young Bordeaux but nice with food.












