My Friday tasting group had a fantastic tasting today. I hope @Warren_Taranow will accept this offering as recompense for my scant attention to Champagne in prior installments. I’m not great at tasting notes for sparkling wines, but can at least offer some cursory thoughts.
I’ll start with a couple of general impressions. We had enough wine left that I was able to revisit all of them at the end of the tasting and every wine changed a good bit in the glass and with air in the bottle, mostly for the better. Also, each of the wines was at least very good and I’d happily enjoy any of them again.
We started with the 1992 Moet Grand Vintage Collection and 1995 Dom Perignon Oenotheque. The 1992 was roaring out of the gate, light gold color with hazelnuts, showing the age wrapped around Meyer, lemon and brioche. It had plenty of fresh acidity and a long finish with air, an earthy truffle note came out that I enjoyed, but got a mixed reception. The 1995, on the other hand, was less exuberant at the start, but was better integrated. It showed wonderful complexity with waves of flavors that washed across the palate. When I return to it after a couple of hours, the flavors had become more pronounced and distinctive, and a pleasant chervil note had joined the finish. I think 1995 is an underrated vintage, lost a little in the shadow of 1996, and this wine supported my contention that 1995 is a great vintage.
The next flight paired the 2008 Grande Dame with the 2008 Dom Perignon. The Grande Dame showed light notes of fresh strawberry and white flowers, with good weight and a pleasantly sweet-tart finish. It took on savory umami with air. The Dom Perignon hasn’t changed too much since release, tight at first but really coming into its own with air and finishing on a savory note. I’m in no hurry to drink my remaining bottles but there is no shame in drinking it now.
Next came the 2004 Hiedsieck and 2008 St. Chamant. The Hiedsieck was nutty and rich but balanced by acidity and minerality. The St. Chamant was perhaps the most distinctive wine of the night, yeasty but with interesting herbs and spices in play. I’ve had it several times and continue to enjoy it.
Finally, we got to the Egly-Ouriet (2015 base) and the Delamotte. My note taking was breaking down by this point, but I enjoyed the leesy, oxidative funk on the Egly-Ouriet that reminded me of a Jura ouillé Chardonnay and a fresh vegetal edge that came out with air. The Delamotte was rock solid, prototypical BdB, with plenty of lemon and brioche and a slightly tart finish.
Everyone in the group stepped up today and it was a fantastic afternoon and evening. I can also report that the wines all worked well with a tray of Chick-fil-A nuggets, though the St. Chamant paired particularly well.
