Views vary on Fevre: some rank their GCs in the top tier, with Dauvissat and Raveneau, some think their wines lack terroir distinction and are therefore insipid. Fevre’s Chablis were relatively affordable from 02 to about 04-05, so, unlike Reveneau and Dauvissat, I’ve enjoyed quite a few myself, and I like their Fourchaume Vaulorent especially. They have had widely-reported trouble with premature oxidation. In 06, they made a number of changes to their production line and handling procedures, which may reduce the rate of p’ox there, but not enough time has elapsed to say whether they have succeeded.
Which vineyard is best depends to a large degree on your own preferences. Stuart votes for Preuse, Cowan might nominate Vaudesir, my own best experience to date has been an off-year Clos. Alan Uchrinscko, who writes as well on Chablis as anyone I’ve read (I wish he’d write a damn book!) has written that Valmur has the best terroir (and C. Moreau the best parcel). Valmur’s quality is not generally understood, he wrote, because few people hold them long enough. He also wrote that les Clos gets its reputation partly because of the large size of the vineyard, which, accordingly - like Vougeot - has a range of sub-sections ranging from Excellent to so-so. The excellent sections are excellent, but overall quality is uneven.
2004 wasn’t thought to be great shakes; the wines may be getting a lot of attention now because they are now coming out of their shell.
As with other white burg these days, if you buy to cellar, you should be willing to accept some percentage loss to p’ox.
Except, John, I think it usually takes a lot more than an hour in an open decanter for most of the Dauvissat wines to really open…rarely have they gotten “there” with as little as 2-3, at least for me. Can’t really speak for other producers much…though the same thing happened with a 1998 Jean Dauvissat Preuses last weekend…though…it improved, it never reached any heights after aerating.
Yes, the amount of time might be variable, but the main thing to realize is that the wine needs air. Not many people decant their whites, but I would do it routinely with chablis.
The decanting question kind of interacts with serving temperature though – shouldn’t you serve Chablis at least somewhat cooler than room temperature? And how do you make that happen if you’re decanting?
Yes, somewhat. Either leave it in your cellar in the decanter (or double decant and leave the bottle inyour cellar) or just take it in and out of you fridge as long as there are no off odors there. Or if you’ve double decanted, you can use one of those bottle sleeves you can put in the freezer that slips over the bottle.
FWIW, I always use a decanter. Leaving wine in a bottle, whether taking it out and putting it back in or never taking it out at all, don’t do much to open a wine, IMO.(Maybe for the ancient stuff Mr. Audouze has). I generally pour off a glass or two and put it in the fridge before serving and then put it back in the decanter before serving it. My decanter can fit in the fridge, but it will get fogged…and doesn’t look too good then. “Room” temperature is, of course, undefined…especially in the US.
I think all one has to do is to try a Chablis (or any chardonnay from Burgundy or the Macon) at different temps to find a good one for oneself. I can’t remember when the last time was that I used an icebucket or a sleeve, etc. on one, though I’ve used them on reds, which I like cooler than “room” temp, too.
Actually, I think pouring (decanting) a wine out of the bottle and back in exposes it to quite a lot of oxygen. I don’t know how doing that and letting the bottle sit for an hour compares with letting it sit in a decanter for an hour interms of oxygenation. Personally, It’s just a lot easier for me to deal with a wine in it’s own bottle, so I tend to double decant a lot. Most all methods work-you just do what you’re most comfortable with.
I stand corrected. Was going from memory. Reviewed the chapter on Chablis last night. What Coates said was that the two I mentioned plus the Fourchaume are considered the best of the Premier Crus because of location on right bank near Grand Crus and having same SW orientation. Sorry about your pre-mox issues.
Don’t sweat it. Fourchaume is often overlooked despite the fact that it is most likely one of the best 1er Crus. Is it because neither Dauvissat nor Raveneau have parcels in this 1er Cru? The Fèvre “Vaulorent” rendition has excellent potential, but whether anyone will ever be able to taste one with sufficient age remains to be seen. I don’t regard Fèvre as anywhere approaching the level of the two aforementioned domaines, but on these shores their wines have actually been more expensive than those of Vincent Dauvissat over the past years! That makes them an easy pass and I’m not even mentioning the premox problems now. At one point, it seemed their 20002’s were dropping faster than the 2000’s!
Billaud-Simon also make an excellent Fourchaume, but is hard to find.
me too, Louis Michel and Brocard as well. Long-Depaquit can make very nice wines. Les Clos, Valmur and Preuses are probably my favourite vineyards.
From Ray’s note, I guess Brocard’s 1er Cru “Les Valourents” must be from one of those 17 designees–Fourchaume looks like? Montee de Tonnere and Mont de Milieu are probably my faves of the 1ers.
"2008 Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Montmains
Lifted sniffs of sea air, slate for sure, bits of sweetness. Nicely fruity, very present on the tastebuds already, not sharp at all, yet makes your mouth water. Backtaste of, funny enough, a little banana. Jurgen finds quince on the nose and also bergamot. With time, the wine does open its petals, and probably ended up being our favourite with dinner."
Billaud-Simon is borderline cult in some quarters, though the only one I’ve tried (AOC) was not a knock-out. I’ve read some having issues with oak in Brocard wines. RE: Fevre Vaulorents, we’ve been throug a six-pack of the 04, and it is very fine, very pretty, rather delicate 1er.
Thanks Ray… Good topic. I headed up to Chablis in mid April and did a tour and tasting of William Fevre. To be honest, my expectations were somewhat low, considering you see the basic Chablis and Petit Chablis strewn throughout French supermarkets and in my experience they have been somewhat forgettable. Not this day. Below is the line up that you are able to taste through.
Of course, this was our only Domaine visit that day, but I can say that I was pleasantly surprised, especially when you get into the 1er and Grand Crus. There is really everything that you would expect from good Chablis – well balanced wines with varying degrees of citrus and slight tropical notes, but really that “gun flint” minerality that I think is better described as “ocean spray.” I can only describe it really as a slight brine you get from exceptional oysters. Tasting through these wines, you really do begin to understand why these wines are and should be Burgundian – they are really defined by their terroir.
If you do get a chance to go, try to bring a car that will allow you to get up into the vineyards. Otherwise, hike up the hill. You really have to see that “Portlandian” limestone to really understand why the wines taste the way they do. That and the views are incredible.
Here’s some shots from the top of the Grand Cru slope, “les Vaudésirs.”
Worth a visit if you have the time. One day is all you need from my experience, but really need to explore the wines a bit more.
2005 Gilbert Picq Vosgros 1er
Loaded with marzipan and ceratinly at the riper end of the spectrum. Rich, round and showing some maturity. A marzipan imprint remains after swallowing. Good, but atypical.
Cheers,
Kent
Love the Cote de Bougerots from Fevre. An '05 we tried recently was pretty spectacular. Far more precise and complex than a very good '06 Fevre Preuses.
2008 Vincent Dauvissat Chablis ‘La Forest’: Reluctant and surly, on first inspection this is just a piece of granite that has a certain vinosity about it. Slowly in the glass it unfurls, throwing out a whiff of chalk, some honeysuckle, orange peel and iodine. It is pulpy and textured in the mouth with piercing line and just a touch of candied pear punching through with air. It has great minerally cut and is quite brilliant Chablis.
Not quite sure what you are saying , Mark Thor…as the grand crus’ character comes from kimmerigdian marl/limestone. The Portlandian limestone is what, ironically, William Fevre, touted as inferior and why he led the battle to keep the 1er crus limited to kimmeridgian fields. Quite a battle it was, too…certainly on the marketing level, too. It’s those little/mini oyster shells in the rock that people think provide the sea taste.
Of course, the Fevre domaine and its wines are very different from those that first built its reputation…and the “battle” did draw some attention to the sleepy little town’s wines.
Also, it can be worth it to visit for a couple of days and really visit some domaines to get a taste of how many different styles of Chablis are made. I did that once. Of course, the “vrai” (true) Chablis is another controversy there…as everyone claims his/her style is the true one…often over the use of wood, new or old in the fermentation or elevage.
My post apparently didn’t transmit so I will try again.
I hope to go to a “French Countryside Wine Dinner” in Chapel Hill next week where a Picq Chablis will be one of the pairings.
2008 Frederic Gueguen Chablis 1er Cru L’Homme Mort (as Neville explained, L’Homme Mort is a corner of Fourchaume and can be labeled as Fourchaume) Imported by Scott Paul Selections, Portland, Oregon. 12.5% alcohol.
Pale and transparent in the glass. Initial impression almost conveys sweetness. Lacks the flinty quality I look for in Chablis (was 2008 a warmer vintage than usual?) Has some lusciousness and opulence but still balanced. The wine invites me to lick my lips after a sip. Drinking quite well now. I lack experience with aging Chablis and don’t know if this will be long-lived or better in seven years from now. I enjoyed this with shrimp scampi over egg noodles and a tossed salad. I have another bottle of this and one each of the 2008 Gueguen Fourchaume and Cote de Lechet.
It was a 2005 Frederic Gueguen Fourchaume (that I purchased on sale for $21.99) and a taste of Dauvissat Les Preuses at a wine bar in Raleigh that piqued my interest in Chablis.
