I just find much more complexity in the two others, and a level of finesse that Charmes doesn’t speak to as much from what I have tasted. That said, I imagine my sample size will be growing as I am aiming to add much more Chambolle in the hopes of correcting this. I do enjoy Charmes, don’t get me wrong. I cited one of them as a truly consistently enjoyable bottling.
Harry - No, I’ve not had recent vintages. Based on bottles I’ve had through the years, both during the Bourgogne regime and when it was still be bottled as Musigny (i.e., before the old vines were ripped out). I am very partial to it and think it is a great wine, but many others whom I respect do not prize it highly. If I recall correctly, neither Jasper Morris nor Clive Coates has much praise in their books.
It is a structured, somewhat austere wine in its youth, to me fitting very much in the style of Côtes de Nuits whites (which I am a fan of), but with more stuffing and depth than the others. A few years ago, there was organized for the press a tasting of monopole clos of Prémeaux, which was a fascinating tasting that taught me a lot about those wines. Olivier Leriche of Domaine de l’Arlot (which was one of the participants in that tasting) has talked of organizing a similar tasting of whites of the Côtes de Nuits, which I think would be fabulous.
I generally prefer to explore among the 1ers that are specific as to the cru.
When I first became interested in Burgundy in the 1980’s, I had a “rule” not to buy blended 1ers. When the 1990 vintage was arriving, my burg merchant suggested I try a particular “1er Cru”. I explained my rule, which was a defense mechanism to narrow the field a bit… as I could not possibly buy every good wine that I wanted to buy. He said, “That’s a good rule, but you are buying this wine” and wrote a ticket for 1990 Hubert Lignier M-S-D 1er Veielles Vignes. So I bought that, and never regretted it. But I still usually follow my rule, with a few exceptions. Bertheau Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru is one such exception, BTW.
I understand why the domaines produce blended 1ers when they have small plots in a number of lieu-dits, especially if they are the less esteemed lieu-dits. But it just seems that a blended 1er can rarely be more interesting than a slightly-better villages bottling. JM2C.
Drouhin CM 1er is usually a pretty nice wine. The last vintage Ive had of it was the 2007 and I was a bit flaberghasted at how much toasted oak there was. Not to sure what to think of that one.
2003 Domaine Fourrier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Gruenchers Vieille Vigne
I wanted to see how 03 and a Gevrey Producer would impact on Chambolle and was pleased that I felt this was still very much what I had hoped. Fineness, silky tannins and underlying elegance…
Unevolved and primary. Fruit here is pure and dominates like it was picked yesterday, 03’s like this will last forever… Shows the 03 ripeness with subtle Barolo tar and cola complexity. A few hours in the glass, the fine pinot expression pulls through and it speaks of its Chambolle terroir. Structurally with the low acids, it sits on its impressive fruit concentration, and fine tannic backbone. I like it. (92 pts.)
Berry…not sure what you’re asking. But, Les Cras is a good vineyard to test this out with. There is both 1er cru (e.g., Roumier) and villages in the Cras (e.g., Patrice Rion).
Incidentally, looking at my own inventory, over the years, other than Roumier’s wonderful examples and some Hubert Lignier “Baudes”, my cellar is full of Patrice Rion’s Chambolles. In my opinion, he makes a wonderful, generous “Les Charmes” and his “Les Cras” is as good as any villages Chambolle I’ve ever experienced (and always impossible to buy; Roumier’s villages until '92 or so when he took out his “Les Cras” holdings, was clearly better, though, IMO). And, when I last visited, Patrice was buying some “Amoureuses” and “Bonnes Mares”.
Sunday night : Barthod Chambolle-Musigny 1er ‘Beaux Bruns’ 1996
Absolutely beautiful wine. Sheer perfection at what it is - above Chambolle, but lacking the gravitas of a Grand Cru. Delicate, lacey on the front with dried cherry framing. Floral elements, pollen, subtle bass line of loamy earth. Light, but very persistent finish. We loved it. Could not ask for anything more.
There is the band of green 1ers. Uphill from these 1ers there are village-level lieux-dits and then then downhill from there there are others. Im wondering if these two groups of village level areas produce wine with a distinct character from one another.
2004 Alain Hudelot-Noellat Chambolle-Musigny AC
A bit of cream to start that fades after few minutes. Flush with mineral character and subtle pine understory elements melded with sour cherries and cherry pits. The nose suggests a bit more fruit than the palate delivers. Not quite austere yet certainly reserved in its lean red fruited demeanor. Good acidity with a gentle yet taught linearity. There’s a smooth mouthfeel with gently tingling tannins. On the lower half of the Pinot ripeness spectrum but not overtly “green” enough to insult an avowed AFWE palate. Not sure where this is going and it’s unlikely I’ll look for another bottle. Still, no hardship pairing it with slow roasted chicken.
Charmes-wise, I own Camille Giroud and Hudelot-Baillet versions. Some of the other producers: Amiot-Servelle, Barthod, Bertheau, Boisset, Chezeaux, Clerget, A Gambal, Guyot, Hudelot-Noellat, Latour, D. Laurent, Le Moine, Domaine Leroy, F. Magnien, M&P Rion, Roumier, Roux, Perrot-Minot, Ponsot, Potel
2007 Olivier Jouan Chambolle-Musigny Les Bussieres Vieilles Vignes - Way, way, way too much oak. I shame really because there seems to be a nice wine trapped inside. Why oak a wine so much? How could this taste good to anyone?
1998 Drouhin C-M Amoureuses–I noted this in another thread recently but thought I’d put it here as well. I wish I had a pile of amoureuses in the cellar, but i don’t. This was our 29th anniversary wine, and the restaurant list price was good enough I considered offering to buy the rest:
Deep bright red. Beautiful, intense, ethereal nose of red fruit with some blackcherries and ripe stawberries thrown in. A little leafy understrory but not much. This plays mostly in the upper tiers. Not much on the baritone or base notes, but gorgeous nonetheless. Ready to drink and enjoy, but I’d guess it has another decade or two of enjoyable life.