Voerzio Visit

WINE TALK
#1

The young enthusiastic marketing chap at Voerzio firstly apologised for his lack of English, then proceeded to sing the virtues of Roberto Voerzio for nigh on 2 hours before we started tasting, by this time I had a thirst you could photograph.

I don’t know whether I’ve visited anywhere that puts more work into their vineyards than Voerzio. There’s incredible vine density and the vineyards are tendered by hand by a large and dedicated team of workers. Every effort goes into attaining dense ripe fruit and there is indeed a remarkable consistency of style and quality.

2009 Dolcetto d’Alba : Nice balance between sweet and sour cherry aromas and flavours. Slippery and slinky in the mouth with good volume.

2007 Barbera d’Alba ‘Cerreto’: This is deep, dark and dense and infused with menthol (oak derived I’m guessing but the marketing chap told us that oak aromas and flavours never show up in Voerzio’s wines so I guess it must have been something else). It is well structured and long with fresh acidity.

2007 Langhe Nebbiolo: Sweet cherry, tobacco and tar on the nose. Generous and round in the mouth with modest structure, quite a delicious Nebbiolo.

2007 Barbera ‘Pozzo dell’Annunziata’: Only bottled in magnums this is one hell of a Barbera. Super complex with loads of truffle, blood plum and liquorice character. In the mouth it is dense and sweet, slippery and slurpy and really quite plush. For all its lush goodness there is still good grip and energy and one suspects it will age for a very long time.

2005 Barbera ‘Pozzo dell’Annunziata’: Again a very broad shouldered Barbera with all sorts of dark and brooding things going on but with also a suggestion of violets and tart cherries. It is dense and round in the mouth with chewy tannins.

2004 Merlot: There’s tobacco leaf, cassis and capsicum. It is sweet and brambly with a little cedar, pleasant but not what I want from Piedmont. I bet in 10 years time Voezio won’t be making a Merlot!

2007 Barolo ‘Sarmassa’: Chocolate, prunes, tobacco, sweet berries, earth and tar. Good richness and density with a chain of fine grained tannins elongating the finish. Very good.

2006 Barolo ‘Rocche dell’Annunziata Torriglione’: This is tighter, perhaps more classic with an ethereal perfume of roses, pomegranate, iron filings and fresh cherries. It is fine and balanced yet structured and finishes with a big savoury hit of cedar, earth and mineral.

2005 Barolo ‘Cerequio’: Sweet and juicy with some elegant floral notes and plenty of sweet cedar. It is a wine of good harmony and balance and finishes with sandy tannins.

2004 Barolo ‘Riserva Capalot’ (Magnum): Super complex with aromas and flavours of menthol, Satsuma plum, cedar, cherry, coal smoke and balsamic. It is extremely rich, dense and chewy with lovely sweet, dark fruits and an engaging mineral footprint is left once the abundant tannins have had their way with your mouth.

2004 Barolo ‘Rocche dell’Annunziata Torriglione’: Very ripe with lashings of blackberry liqueur tempered by notes of salty plum and scorched earth. It is sweet, plush and creamy, with the ample structure currently completely enveloped by the slick fruit.

2003 Barolo ‘Cerequio’: Roasted and round with notes of caramel and scorched earth. Looked very simple in this illustrious company.

2001 Barolo ‘Brunate’: Lovely balance and poise. The fruits are sweet and both red and black. There are notes of liquorice and tar and it finishes long with a delightful streak of minerals.

2001 Barolo ‘Rocche dell’Annunziata Torriglione’: Lovely rich fruits that are infused with Indian spices. It has great balance and again shows plenty of minerally character. It will need a lot more cellar time to properly unravel.

1998 Barolo ‘Cerequio’: In a lovely place right now with some meaty notes plus tar and roses. There’s a gorgeous
sweet heart and plenty of earth and flora playing just in the background. There’s quite rigid posture thanks to a high tensile, mineral spine.

Cheers
Jeremy

#2

Wow, they really opened a lot of wine for you. [thumbs-up.gif]

Your only mention of oak is for a Barbera. You didn’t find noticeable oak in any of the other wines?

#3

Thanks for the notes, Jeremy.

Quite remarkable given the number of barriques in their cellar. :slight_smile: This brought a chuckle.

I have fond memories of a visit there 12 years ago, marred only by my girlfriend’s obvious preoccupation with Roberto’s dashing good looks.

I don’t see the wines around NYC nearly as much as I used to. I don’t know why that is.

#4

the marketing chap told us that oak aromas and flavours never show up in Voerzio’s wines so I guess it must have been something else
That’s funny! [wow.gif]

#5

Beautiful write-up! Sounds like an enjoyable visit.
Cheers,

#6

Ken,
I don’t think the oak poked out in any of the wines but it certainly influences the wines style. These are wines that have very ripe, dense fruit and coupled with the wood treatment are indeed polished, creamy of texture and immediately gratifying. The Barolo’s have a history of aging and I think they perform very well in the more difficult vintages (save for 03).
Best Regards
Jeremy

#7

LOVE the stuff…wish I could drink more of it, more often! Still haven’t tried one of my '97 Brunate’s yet…time?

Thanks for the write-up. flirtysmile