Visiting New Orleans for the first time

Travel, Wine Tourism, and Restaurants Forum
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With thanks to the earlier threads we’ll be staying at the Soniat House in the French Quarter.

I’ve also found enough restaurant recommendations to last us for 3x the length of our visit (August, Herbsaint, Iris, Bourbon House, Mothers, Sylvain. Stella, Old Coffeepot, Dooky chase, Luke…)

What I’m looking for now are any recommendations for tours (Arnold likes guided tours) and things to do/places to go. I was thinking of a tour of the French Quarter, a swamp tour, maybe a plantation tour - any specific tour company recommendations would be great.

Then there’s the French market and at least one night at a jazz club (any recommendations?).

I see there are some Mardi Gras parades on 2/22 and 2/23. I hadn’t known they started that early but I suppose it’s worth watching one for at least a little while?

TIA!

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What are your dates? We will be there 2/6-10

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2/22-2/25

Just a long weekend to get away from the city and the worst of the cold. We were originally thinking Presidents Day weekend but air fares were about 3x for no particular benefit.

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Jay, let’s chat when you get back. We’re going in March. I haven’t been since pre-Katrina.

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Lots to tell. Let’s start here. Unless you flunked history (and even then – maybe especially then) you need to see the WWII museum. Extremely well done. The Hanks film is kitch and manipulative jingoism, but go anyway. Very entertaining.

I’d go mid-morning one day to the Garden District and just walk. Absolutely beautiful old homes, great gardens, one of the oldest cemeteries (above ground and creepy), and end up at Commanders for lunch. Food may not be the very best in NO, but it is excellent nonetheless and a perfect way to cap a morning of sightseeing.

The real attraction of NO to me is the city itself. The architecture, the neighborhoods, the people. I would plan on spending a day just wandering around the quarter. Lots of schlock, no doubt, but there are some terrific galleries and just plain odd stuff to visit. I am a big fan of good organized walking tours, but have never done one in NO. If you find one, let us know.

Poke around on line to see who is playing. The usual haunts always have live music (Tips, Snug Harbor etc) but often the best experiences are in the little clubs around town. There is a going-out-guide on line though I forget the name.

Oh, and you should definitely plan on sitting through a set or two at the Preservation Hall (they are only 20+ minutes long as I recall, but they will (or did) allow you to stay over to see the show a second time). Plan to avoid the lines (go early).

Have a great time. NO is unique, and as every other city in the US is pulled toward some future infested with big-boxes and fast food, NO is resolutely NO.

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Will do. I discovered this morning that we lucked out with regards to what Krewe will be having their parade in the French Quarter while we’re there. It’s Krewe Barkus - made up entirely of dogs and their owners in costume. Arnold will love it.

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Thank you Neal! I’ve wanted to visit New Orleans for over 30 years now, but for one reason or other it was never feasible. I’m really looking forward to this.

The Garden District sounds like a great idea, I’ve just penciled that in for Monday morning.

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If you’re not married to your hotel, check our AirBnB options. We got an entire apartment in the Garden District to ourselves for $80 per night. It seems like NOLA has some of the best options in the country for AirBnB guests. We’ve stayed in/near the FQ several times now and I really don’t like the amount of light/noise throughout the night.

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We did a French Quarter walking tour. I don’t remember the company but it was the one that our concierge at the Roosevelt recommended. Definitely recommend doing a tour of the quarter as you will learn a lot of Nola history. There is a popular free tour company as well that you have to book in advance.

We also did a tour at Laura plantation, which was well worth it. Originally we had planned on also seeing Oak Alley but decided one plantation was enough for a day…

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I agree with most/all of what Neal says: it’s the City and its culture, not the mini-chains of Donald Link, John Besh, Emeril, etc…that make it a great place to visit.

I’ve been several times (4) and…would add to just take the St. Charles streetcar…and just absorb the different neighborhoods as it goes up the Avenue. past Tulane…and the lovely Audobon Park…and turns at the end. The WW II Museum is great…as is the museum of the confederacy, though a couple of years ago, it needed some upgrades. The Honey Island Swamp tour is a great experience…nothing like it in NJ (even Hoboken after Sandy and Christie). Walk, walk, walk. No real need for a tour…And, if you like antiquing (albeit with a Creole flavor), there are endless shops along the length of Magazine Street…and lots of cool things to ponder in them. I also don’t know if it’s still worth it, but…a tour I took of the Superdome in 1980…still resonates…quite a creation.

Good luck. And, report back, please.

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We took a horse-drawn carriage tour of the Garden District which ended at Commander’s. Highly recommended. We went to lunch at Commander’s with a first cousin of the Matre d’ so our experience may not be representative, but it was great.

A good walking tour of the French Quarter should great. I would ask at your hotel for recos.

If you’ll be there on a Monday evening, Charmaine Neville is regular at Snug Harbor and a terrific live performer. I see you’ll be there on the 24th and so will she. Go for both shows.

And I know you’re not looking for restos, but just down the street may be your only opportunity for Cajun Soul food:
http://www.pralineconnection.com/

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Hey Jay, apologies… I realize after I wrote this that it’s a bit sprawling and more than what you asked for. I got excited.


We were there for four nights just after the first of the year for our fourth trip to New Orleans. We stayed at the Soniat House. It was fantastic. You made the right choice. See if you can perhaps get something off the street. A bit noisy in the mornings from the road. Great people and rooms, and generally a very quiet hotel without being hushed.

Despite the fact that New Orleans was (literally) freezing when we were there we really just spent a lot of time walking around. There are a handful of old book shops in the French Quarter that also sell old maps and prints, as well as a few great record shops. The square and cathedral are worth a walk through.

If you’re up for a long walk, we made a trip on foot from Soniat House to the WW2 museum (worth checking out, if a bit lopsided in its presentation… but there’s a lot packed in there). And then we kept walking to Martin Wine Cellar in the Garden District. Along the route there’s an excellent shopping district of a few blocks on Magazine Street. Great way to see a bunch of neighborhoods over several miles, end up at a good destination, and burn off the food and liquor.

Stella was fantastic. We went for our first time this January. One of the best meals I’ve had in years, possibly ever. They have a great wine list too. Several interesting Madeiras by the glass. We had a D’Oliveiras 1977 Terrantez and a 1915 Bual (I think it was Bual). Both in the $30s for a 1-oz pour. (The 1915 was something special… though I can’t seem to find my notes on it right now.)

August was excellent as well and something you don’t want to pass up on. The service was having a bit of a rough night but they more than made up for it. Exceptionally gracious. Great food. The usual. Take a bottle or two of wine with you and take advantage of the free corkage, excellent stemware, and knowledgable service (except when they pour a bit of your Riesling into your water glass).

Had dinner at the bar at Herbsaint after we landed. I managed to get duck confit at almost every meal down there and Herbsaint had some of the best. I like this place less than August and Stella. They also own Cochon, which is a very hip, meat-focused Brooklyn sort of place but great (though loud). And they own Peche, which is a fish-centered place. We didn’t make it this time but they’re supposed to do a great lunch.

I wouldn’t waste a meal on Luke. We went once on a past trip. It wasn’t particularly anything. You’ve got better access to that sort of food up in the NYC area.

You should get lunch at Commander’s. It’s pretty fun. Food is great. $0.25 martinis. Great. There’s a good cemetery across the street as well and it’s a wonderful neighborhood to walk around.

I don’t know if Brennan’s will be open by the time you’re there (they were closed for construction) but they have a great brunch. My girlfriend doesn’t eat gluten and we found a great little outdoor shop down by the water called Meals from the Heart Cafe. Very healthy and delicious–great gumbo and a solid start to the day. Also walking distance from Soniat House.

For jazz, walk up and down a couple blocks on Frenchmen Street. There are a bunch of clubs right in that area (it’s very near Soniat House) and they all post their schedules out front. When I asked the hotel and locals for recommendations they all named the same couple places from there.

French 75 is still making great cocktails. Sylvain is a good destination for drinks too. Bar Tonique is a very hip place up on Rampart Street. They mix some good drinks too. Really liked their Ramos Gin Fizz. But French 75 on Bourbon will give you a classic New Orleans experience and you can get a lot of great old-style drinks in a historical setting. (It’s not all fratty-Mardi Gras-spring break like down the street.) If you’re at French 75 ask to get the tour and see the Mardi Gras museum upstairs. It’s unique.

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That was some walk, Spencer! If you’d prefer not to walk that far, there is a streetcar (which you should ride at least once, as touristy as it is) directly from Canal to the WWII museum. And yes, the museum is premised on the notion that the US won the war, and that the other nations played a bit part. It is jingoistic but nonetheless a must-see

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Brennan’s is no more; the latest chapter in a drama that would rival Lear. Whatever eventually opens there, will not be the Brennan’s of past.

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For nightlife, I much prefer Frenchmen Street to the French Quarter.

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Yeah, we made it about a third of the way back. It was a long walk. Streetcar is definitely worth it to see the houses and all the beads in the trees.

You’re spot on about the museum. They have an impressive collection of stuff and a great room on New Orleans’ role in the war.

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Thank you Spencer!

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There’s also Wine Institute of New Orleans (WINO), which is a retail store that also has a large number of those Enomatic dispensers set up to taste (for a fee) or buy a glass of what they’re selling. I think it’s worth 20 minutes if you’re in the area. You’ve probably had most of what they offer and it’s not particularly geeky, but recent highlights were 1998 Musar red, Scholium Project, and some older LdH whites. Made it worth it for me.

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A word of caution if you are planning on doing any freelance exploration: you can be walking or driving down a street with million dollar homes, and within two blocks have real poverty and/ or lawlessness. All it takes is for a predator to roll up on you riding a bicycle. Proceed with caution

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Jay; We were just there in October. I know you have looked threads and have tons of food ideas. For an interesting swamp tour I would highly recommend http://www.pearlriverecotours.com/‎…We have gone twice post Katrina; Once in 2009 and again in October. The growth and regrowth of the bayou is absolutely spectacular. Let me know, and Paul as well, if you have any other specific questions.

Cheers! [cheers.gif]
Marshall