Vinous re-visits the 'nightmare' 2008 vintage in Burgundy

Did you see Yule Kim’s over in Recent Burg Experiences last week? From one of Yule’s wine mentors on how vintages (in their totality) often move & shift in their relativity to each other rather than hold firm over decades?

You will know far more about barrel tasting & younger wines showcasing (or not showcasing) various qualities. For obvious reasons :wink: . And the tasting guidance given to Maureen 15 years ago sounds like it had some thoughtful thinking/merit behind it.

In 2026, this notion is much more amorphous. More acid? Okay, sure, on the whole 2008s will usually show more acid & structure. But reflecting ‘site’ and where the wine is from? I wouldn’t be so definitive at all :thinking: .

Of the wines from the three days tasting together this past weekend, the 2008 Rousseau Ruchottes might be the one wine that walks your proposed line of generalization. Wonderful aromatics. Acid & structure (not releasing the wine to maximum openness). High quality and opinions would vary based on personal palate preferences. Marcus Goodfellow could go ‘Ah, I feel this one. The aromatics are phenomenal and the acidity keeps this potentially opulent Grand Cru in such restraint.’ (hypothetical paraphrasing).

But the point I’d make is the 2009 Mugneret-Gibourg Ruchottes (which was utterly glorious) certainly shows ‘site’ just as well if not better. Because it was exceptionally light & elegant in the glass & mouth, regardless of how wondrous the fruit was. And a very pure finish.

I’d also say the 2009 Chevillon NSG Les St Georges on Thursday evening showed tremendous site purity. Yes, it was a luxurious showing (and definitely the marquee showing an NSG producer would want when advocating for the vineyard to get bumped up to Grand Cru status). But that’s not exclusive to showing the vineyard & the wine’s totality.

In 2026, I think ‘site showing’ in regards to 2008 or 2009 versions of the same wine will be all over the map.

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