”This is to me one of the best wine events in the world. You will never see so many of the world’s luminaries together in one place, everyone with such humility and in a relaxed mood that is surely inspired by the setting”
That’s how Antonio Galloni summarizes the Villa d’Este Wine Symposium, and who I’m to argue with that? After making my debut at the event this fall, I can only agree that this is something truly special!
Apart from being placed in at the very special Villa d’Este, located on the shores of the beautiful Como lake, about a hour’s drive north of Milan, the quality offered - wine and food are second to none. Of course, it comes with an equivalent price tag, but considering what’s included, it’s actually very well priced!
On arrival at Malpensa airport, we were escorted by a private driver in a fancy Maserati car to the wonderfully located Villa d’Este, where - after check-in - a relaxed tasting session took place, covering numerous great wines.
The dinner on Friday night was themed (wine wise), BYO so I brought Penfolds Grange 1993 (93 p) and Comte Georges de Vogue Musigny VV (95 p) to the table. Both were great, but out-scored by a 1999 DRC La Tache (98+ p), kindly brought by a newly found friend from Holland.
On Saturday, following some interesting seminars, we attended an amazing, comparative tasting of Haut-Brion vs La Mission Haut-Brion. For sure, both estates belong to my all-time Bordeaux favorites and this tasting, spanning 50+ years back in time were truly memorable:
1961 Haut-Brion; sensual and surprisingly fresh, this aged version showed wonderful balance. 94 p.
1961 La Mission Haut Brion; volatile and slightly corked. NR
1975 Haut Brion; a positive surprise, showing elegance and finesse, with sweet spice additions. Good for many years to come. 96 p.
1975 La Mission Haut-Brion; perfumed and in many ways positive, though it’s slightly thin mid-palate, let’s the still grippy tannins dominate the finish. Drink now. 93 p. (most tasters prefers this wine over HB, but never in my book!)
1989 Haut-Brion; promising to become perfection, this is still youthful and vivid on the powerful and complex finish. 98+ p.
1989 La Mission Haut-Brion; I have doubts whether the tannins will ever resolve and create greatness or if hollowness will be the answer here. 93+? p.
2000 Haut-Brion; still inky and showing enormous restraint, this utterly promising HB has immense concentration and structure for the long haul. 97 p.
2000 La Mission Haut-Brion; immensely concentrated and truly rich, tasting almost like dry red Port, this infant has all the attributes to claim legendary status, and it will out-live most of us. 99 p.
I also feel obliged to mention the generosity provided by Paul Roberts, COO at Colgin Cellars, as he brought, for all to taste treasures like the Herb Lamb VY 1993 (96 p) and Cariad 1999 (94 p).
You cannot foresee this year’s seminars, without bowing to the fact that they managed to arrange a unique vertical of DRC Romanée Conti and Montrachet, presented by Mr. Aubert de Villaine. himself. Wines were brought directly from the estate’s cold cellars on Burgundy, and despite its EUR 2000 price tag, this tasting was sold out quickly.
I regret not participating, but was granted small samples of the following stunningly unique wines:
1971 DCR Romanée Conti; sweet, spicy and mature, showing sincere depth, with still present tannins, really silky and caressing, adding enormous juiciness on the chalky, mineral-infused finish, where generous red berries lingers effortlessly. 98 p.
1991 DRC Romanée Conti; still strict and structured, with pure red and dark berries, a whiff of chocolate and stony minerals. Elegant finish showing multiple layers. Long and promising to deliver even more enjoyment in another few years. 96 p.
1997 DRC Montrachet; rich and really concentrated, with honeyed tropical fruits and some Botrytis-spice and lemon-oil adding complexity on the texturally perfect finish. 97 p.
1991 DRC Montrachet; Developed and damn good, this personal wine impresses with papaya, unripe pineapple and red grapefruit flavors, where the vineyard’s telltale characteristics are most present. 95 p.
The open tasting were available on all 3 days. Selected, high-quality producers presented their best wines, like a laid-back ”wine fair”, exclusively created for the participants, and of course it’s always a treat to meet and discuss wines first hand. Please find below a selection of my favorites:
2011 Grattamacco; youthful, opulent and loaded with dark, rich fruit, bay leaves and integrated oak, showing great sweet tannins and a long finish. 92 p.
2010 Damilano Barolo Cannubi; floral, classic Nebbiolo aromas and dito flavors, where tar, gentle oak and severe structure promise serious drinking in about 4-15 years. 94 p.
2009 Trimbach Clos St Hune; youthful but thanks to the warmth of the vintage, this is already delicious. Lovely focus and pronounced minerality, there’s great potential here. 93 p.
2006 Bonneau de Martray Corton-Charlemagne; chalky stone, chalky stone, and then some… chalky stones. Gently developed, aristocratic and lively on the complex and impressive palate. 94+ p.
2009 Baron de Pichon-Longueville; charming CS-aromatics and exclusive barrel notes, flows into a rich, silky, raffined and intense palate, which changes by the minute. Impressive. 95 p.
2000 Baron de Pichon-Longueville; tobacco leaves and oriental incense on the complex and compelling nose, while the palate reveals explosive power, complete purity and elegance, true to its origin. 97 p.
…but there were so many other great wines, as well!
Dinners and lunches were of high quality as well, and I was impressed by the service team, managing to present food and wines to all guests, without being ”visible”. Classy, to say the least.
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