Actually, the second label is Vieux Mas de Pas. The Telegram is really a third label that came about after the horrendous rains in the 2002 vintage and reflected a completely different cuvee (and name). The vines are planted on the Plateau la Crau, but I am not sure about the designation (I think the La Crau onthe label is a more recent thing post 1990 but I could be totally wrong about that).
Maybe someone with a nice vertical of Télégraphe can enlighten us but I think John has hit it, the older bottles lack the designation and the newer ones have it. Thus
I wonder how many people know that the “telegraph” was a pre-electric version from 1792 which involved signal flags and telescopes?
As it was described to me, La Crau is used in great years when the majority VT’s final blend is from the Plateau la Crau. A quick fact check in RMP’s book seemed to back this theory up, but I would love to hear a more on the subject.
“Vieux Telegraphe’s 60.5 ha vineyards are situated in a single block, in the lieu-dit La Crau and for a part crossing the borders of Montpertuis. … The wines (red and white) have printed La Crau on the label since 1994 but this is not a special bottling as is often thought.”
It also says only 4 wines are produce by VT:
Regular Red - 190,000 bottles
Red Telegramme - 50,000 bottles
Regular White - 25,000
White Telegramme - 4,000
Indeed, there is only one VT. Old labels do not say La Crau. New ones do. The vineyard sourcing though is unchanged.
There was actually a switchover from Vieux Mas de Papes to Telegramme as the 2nd label, but it was a bit murky and may have overlapped by a year or two and varied with red and white.
Actually, there was another cuvee made in at least 2 vintages (1994 and 1995) that contained higher levels of Mourvedre. The wine was exceptionally small production (I have heard numbers in the 5 barrel or less range), and the wine was called Hippolyte. I had the 1995 and it was incredible. I don’t know if other vintages were made.
I asked Bruce Neyers about this a few years ago, and he actually was unaware of the cuvee, so not sure if this came through Kermit. Crazy hard to find, only seen it that one time.