No Dalat Wine tasting notes?
At our hotel in Hanoi, the Essence D’Orient, they left a bottle of Dalat in the room, I don’t remember which one but it was something white. I didn’t bother opening it, figuring discretion was the better part of valor. My parents couldn’t resist, and even they thought it was undrinkable swill. Fortunately, French, Italian and Australian wines were pretty available.
I saw Vang Dalat multiple places, but I was never truly tempted. There is something about 90+ degree temps and 80%+ humidity that blunts my interest in vin rouge. The beer was just too tempting. 
We drank mostly Ha Noi beer or Saigon beer (the generic local pilsner), but in Hanoi we stumbled across a bar serving beers from Pasteur Street Brewing Company in Saigon. Their IPA was one of the best IPAs I think I’ve ever had, right up their with Deschutes’ Hop Henge in terms of floral aromatics.
Just got back from 2 weeks (honeymoon) from Vietnam. Here is a review of the activities/hotels we stayed at. I have no connection to any of them and my wife did most the planning.
We arrived in HCMC at 10PM Saturday evening. We stayed at the Liberty Central Saigon Riverside hotel. I’ll first premise this by saying, hotels really aren’t that important to me. As long as I can get AC and a hot shower, they are generally okay by me. This hotel was really nice, met all the previous criteria, and was centrally located. It was probably the nicest hotel we stayed at during our stay, as far as looks and amenities. They had a nice rooftop pool which we enjoyed a couple of times. The spa was nice. Did a leg massage for ~$25 for too people.
While in HCMC, we did a street food tour on Motorbike (XO tours). It was a really great night. The food was good, but nothing amazing. While in HCMC, we ate some really great meals. We had a soup dish with from a crab based broth in Ton That Dan market. We then had Bun Moc near the central market. I preferred the first, my wife the latter. Walked around, went to the Reunification Palace.
That night we had the XO tour. This was the highlight from HCMC. Well executed, fun, met some fellow travelers.
After HCMC, we flew to Da Nang and then drove to Hoi An. Hoi An is incredibly touristy. It seems that 1/3 of the shops are bars, 1/3 restaurants, 1/3 tailors. We stayed at the Lantana Hotel. It was perfectly fine, but unspectacular. We had clothes made in Hoi An. I bought 6 shirts, two blazers, boat shoes, and 2 belts. My wife did 4 summer dresses, 3 pants, 1 blazer, multiple flats. I think we could have spent less than we did, but I hate bargaining, and she isn’t the best. We talked them down some, but not as much as we could have. FWIW, I averaged $30 for custom shirts. That’s about what I pay to have a shirt altered here, so I was okay with the price. We did 4 days in Hoi An, mostly because we had read we needed 3 fittings. I agree, you need 3 fittings, but I would either remove one day and press the nicer places for faster turnaround, or plan a trip to Hue for a day.
While in Hoi An, we got up really and did a bike ride amongst the rice fields. Renting a bike was super cheap. After that, we went to An Bang beach. Like hotels, I don’t expect a ton from beeches. I’ve been to beaches in Miami, Brazil, So. France. To me, a beach is a beach is a beach. As long as they aren’t rocks, they are the same to me. People told me it was super touristy there. Aren’t all beaches?
We did a cooking course in Hoi An (Green Bamboo I think). It was really nice. You are allowed to pick from some 50 options. Don’t worry about picking popular dishes. No two people cook the same dish. That does mean you might not get your first choice, so the earlier you sign up, the higher the likelihood you get your first choice. I cooked Cao Lao, fwiw.
From Hoi An, we flew to Hanoi. Had a 4+ hour delay on Vietnam airlines, because of a delayed flight. Got onto an earlier flight to Hanoi.
Not sure, what time we arrived in Hanoi (3pm?) Walked around. Went to the Hanoi Hilton. There is literally 1 room devoted to the captured Americans. Most of it focuses on the French treatment of the Vietnamese rebels. It goes on to describe the brutal conditions the Vietnamese had to endure, but then transitions to the amazing living conditions the Americans faced. ![[basic-smile.gif]](/uploads/db3686/original/2X/8/83717c74df9b0ce202453063bc4f11baf0ee6b8a.gif "smile"){kind=small}
Spent the day then took the overnight train to Sapa. Technically you go to Lao Cai, then take an hour bus to Sapa. Train was…old, but wepaid for 4 berths to ensure a private cabin. Arrived in Sapa later that morning. Sapa is a tourist trap, but pretty. Hiked for 3 hours to have lunch with a black Hmong family. Then hiked 2 more hours (not really sure about the time), for a homestay with a black Hmong family. Incredible incredible views. We did this through Ethos tours. We had the fortunate night to spend with a family who just completed their second planting. Was part of a feast.
Hiked the second day out and took the overninght train to Hanoi.
Spent a full day in Hanoi. Drank a lot of coffee, ate good food, then caught a bus to Ha Long Bay. Lost day in Hanoi because of food poisoning in Lao Cai.
Ha Long Bay was amazing. We cruised with Indochina Sails. More expensive group than most, but they get you back to Hanoi a littler earlier. Kayaked around a fishing village, sun bathed on the boat. It was a really great boat, good service. The food skews western and is just okay.
Back to Hanoi, where we just ate and drank around town. Stayed up late and had beers on small stools and ate some food. Probably my favorite part about Hanoi.
I thought the food was best in HCMC. Wasn’t bad anywhere, but HCMC seemed to be a little more seasoned.
People like to ask what restaurants to eat at, what should I try? Honestly, I don’t think you need to do this. I think the worst meal (minus the dogsh*t we were served when we hot food poisoning) was Ban Xeo 46A. It was featured on Bourdain. It wasn’t bad. It was just very mediocre.
If I had to change things, I would spend less time in Hoi An. It is super touristy. Its nice, but the restaurants that get all the high reviews are essentially expensive vietnamese food (Mango Mango, Morning Glory). They aren’t bad, but they aren’t amazing. It is nice that you can try half of the local specialties from one restaurant. But, the food doesn’t stand out.
That’s the majority of my impressions. If you have questions, please let me know.
Thanks for sharing Matt. I think the XO Tours in Saigon was one of the highlights of our trip. The food was fine (great phở gà and a great grilled scallop/chili/fish sauce dish), but it was seeing so much of the city, getting to spend so much time talking one on one with a local, and being on a scooter in the midst of all that traffic were what made it so enjoyable.
I agree completely with your comments about restaurants. We had much better street food than restaurant food. We had great food in Hanoi, but we spent a lot more time there than in Saigon.
For our street food tour in Hanoi, we were very explicit – Bring us to really special places and we’ll eat anything (once). We were taken to a shop that specialized in Durian for example that wasn’t on the typical tourist tour.
I also think the food in Saigon is superior in most ways to that in Hanoi. My foodie friends who live there agree wholeheartedly, though I question their objectivity. 
What is Hmong food like? How modern were their houses?
Sounds like a fun trip!
The Hmong migrated across much of SE Asia mountainous regions that are now parts of Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, and China.
If you’ve eaten at a Northern Thai or Laotian restaurant you’ve likely had Hmong dishes. Speaking of Laos, Luang Prabang belongs on everyone’s SE Asia bucket list along with Siem Reap, Hanoi, HCMC, Chiang Mai & Rai, Bangkok, …
We had 3 meals while in Sapa, so I am by no means an expert, but here is what we had. Our first meal was sauteed greens with garlic, we had a tofu stew with tomatoes and onions, sauteed bamboo shoots, and then pork and chicken for our first meal. All this was eaten over rice. It was relatively basic food.
The family we stayed at finished their rice planting, so they had a feast to celebrate. For that, we had sauteed greens again with garlic, pork, chicken, rice, and lots of Bia Hoi. They made a dipping sauce with ground roasted peppers, salt, water, and MSG. I loved the dipping sauce. They seasoned all of their food with MSG.
Breakfast was eggs, rice, and the dipping sauce again.
All cooking was done over wood fire, in a little hearth in the cooking room. The kitchen prep area was separate from the cooking area in both houses we went in. They had cement floors, and were basic wooden buildings, maybe 15’ x 30’. Ours had a master bedroom, a bed in the kitchen, and a separate bed in the area between the living/dining room and the prep area. On the other side of the living/dining room was the hearth and the “master” bedroom. They had storage on the second level, but not living spaces. They did not have any windows and only had 1 light per room. The walls were wooden planks. No insulation or running water in the houses we were in. Both had outhouses. At the place where we met the guide, the owner mentioned that there is an elevated mortality rate from carbon monoxide poisoning, especially during the winter months when they use the hearth to heat the house. We slept under a mosquito net.
The house we did a homestay in had a tv and DVD player. I saw some houses with satellites.
There is a large Hmong population in the US, mostly situated in California, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. These are mostly blue Hmong, per the tour director, and mostly from Laos and Cambodia.
Here is another piece of Hmong trivia. Most of Clint Eastwood’s tormenters in “Grand Torino” were Hmong from the Twin Cities, Robbinsdale I believe. That’s where they went to recruit them. Also…Matt…I assume you are from Minnesota? That icon has to go; the Twins are the most miserable cast of characters I have ever seen, although they have won a few lately.
Yes, I am originally from Minneapolis. Moved away a few years ago for work, but will be moving back in August.
The Twins are pathetic this year, but, I continue to support them.
I was lucky enough to win the lottery for World Series tickets the 2 years the Twins won out. That said, baseball is so boring. Twins who?
Bump
The ripoff stories are a little concerning. Seems like standard operating procedure.
What ripoff stories?
Todd,
Many have issues with over charging, cheating, and general abusive practices.
Seems common for those traveling on their own vs a group or tour.
Stuff like this
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.nomadicmatt.com/travel-blogs/why-ill-never-return-to-vietnam/amp/
Been twice, no problems whatsoever. Just take basic precautions.
You’ll find stories like that anywhere. Only time I’ve been truly victimized was in Bergen, Norway.
Backpacked south to north in 2001 with no problems other than those encountered in most SE Asian countries - aggressive hawkers.
Ditto. You gotta watch your back everywhere you travel. Do some reading up in advance to prepare for common scams.
Our 2 trips to Vietnam we had no problems traveling on our own.
Steve
Agree it is a very polarizing topic. Appreciate everyone’s feedback as always. The travel forum has been a great resource for our adventures.