I took no notes, so all I can give is general impressions of the best and worst of the wines I drank over the last couple of weeks. Mostly, the wines performed exceptionally well; one exception was the 1996 Leoville Poyferre which was flawed, dense with funk and little else.
Much more successful, though to varying degrees, were 1999 Croix St. Georges, 1999 Monbousquet, 2001 Cos D’Estournel, 2004 Angelus, 2001 Pavie Decesse, and 1999 Pavie. The Croix St Georges was gorgeous, bursting with fruit and easy to drink. Not a “tour de forces in winemaking” but another example of a seriously undervalued producer. The Monbousquet continues to puzzle me, as many deride it as an exemplar of all that is wring with modern bordeaux. What I found no overt oak, only an elegant and well-mannered wine. I am mystified by what I read. The Decesse was absolutely brilliant, measurably behind the 2000 but an exceptional wine in its own right, and much more convincing that the 99 Pavie. The Angelus was also exceptional. The Cos was a pleasure to drink too, but like the Angelus, a few more years (at least) are in order.
We drank a LOT of champagne. Usually a bottle on the beach as the day ended, toes in the surf, with another bottle or two before dinner. Obvisously, the situation did not allow for notes, but we drank and enjoyed bottles of 2002 Jose Dhondt Blanc de Blanc, Guy Charlemagne NV, Jacquesson 730, Jean Lallement BdB NV, and Cremant de Mumm. Bob’s enthusiasm for the latter continues to puzzle me; it is pleasant enough but a bit sweet and nowhere near the world-beater he saw. The Guy Charlemagne was a lot of fun and I made a note to seek out more (this was my first bottle). The 1990 Paul Bara Special Club is a special wine, having traded effervescence for complexity and a mellow depth. Just luscious.
The champers of the trip, however, was the 1996 Bollinger Grande Annee. THAT is a wine to treasure, and this was, sadly, my only bottle. If you own some, you are very lucky. It is multi-dimensional, vivacious, and welcoming now, and will be more so in years to come. A wine to treasure.
We also drank another of the 2004 Domaine William Fevre Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots which was again intoxicating on the nose but somewhat less giving in the mouth. Another year or two will do wonders for this wine.
Three other red wines performed exceptionally well. The 2004 Montevetrano was a delight. Unfortunatley, we had this open when the garagiste email arrived and I was compelled to but some of the 206. If it is half the wine the 2004 is, I will be thrilled to have bought it. Also spectacular was the 1992 Montelena Estate Cabernet. I don’t want to start a shouting match, but the distance, to my palate, and the 2005 Switchback Ridge Cabernet and the 2004 Switchback Ridge Petite Syrah was enormous. The former wine had the fruit and exuberance – at 17 years of age – that one hopes to find in a CA wine but also the composure I look for in bordeaux. It was everything I want in a CA wine. The Switchback Ridge wines were mono-dimensional in comparison. I know the latter wines are much, much younger, and I suspect (hope) they will improve with time, but it is very hard for me to see them gain the maturity and grace the Montelena presents.
Finally, we had another bottle of the 2004 Flor de Pingus, which was brilliant as expected. I really wish I could find another tempranillo that delivers the way this one does at its price range. Just an exceptional wine that could hold its own against much, much more expensive wines.
Our time at the beach is a time to read, relax, drink good wines with friends and family, and recharge before the academic year begins again. I know lots of people look for beaches that offer lots of shopping and activities; this is why we choose to go to Corolla (the picture was taken at high tide, mid-day at high season in front of “our” house):
I would love to say that I am glad to be back, but I promised not to lie to you.