2004 Dom. Leroy, Bourgogne:
A strange showing – almost orange at the rim, stemmy, although not overwhelmingly so, and brittle in the mouth – not at all what I expected based on past bottles. Not enjoyable.
2007 Edmunds St. John, Heart of Gold:
One of the nice things about screw-caps is that you can have a glass and put the bottle in the fridge knowing that you have more time to get back to it. This was three days out and I think it was the better for it; more fullness, slightly softer (although this has plenty of cut), smoother texture and (tell me how this happens?) better length. Refreshing, of course, but after a few days, more delicious then when popped and poured. Stellar with tomato and mozzarella salad.
2004 Harlan Estate, Cabernet Sauvignon:
While I always appreciate the generosity of those who open such bottles for public consumption, I can’t wrap my head around why one would pay such exorbitant purchase prices in the first place. This was a horror show of candied fruit, VA, huge quantities of wood and a monolithic flavor profile that left me flat. The balance is off, the wine is overdone, the alcohol is high and the finish is grapey without appearing to be vinous. I realize my palate is narrower than many folks so I will leave this for others to drink.
(Aside: The 1992 Harlan was a delight when I had it about eight years ago from magnum; fresh, expressive, satin textured and long – it even had some complexity. No other vintage has impressed me and some (eg. 1997) have been some of the least enjoyable cabernets I have tasted from CA. Perhaps, I am blessed; one less expensive label to consider.)
2002 François Cazin, Cour-Cheverny Cuvée Renaissance:
Almost dry; reticent nose with some fruit and mineral tones; medium bodied, somewhat non-descript flavors in the white fruit and mineral range, good acidity and a medium length finish. Better the warmer it got but not as impressive at this stage as it was closer to release. Nothing to write home about with arugula, figs and manchego salad.
2001 Sella, Lessona:
Like reacquainting with an old friend; nebbiolo smells and tastes without any attempt to mimic Barolo, et al; feminine delivery, nice complexity, lovely balance and good sustain. And who’d have thought; charming accompaniment to Phad Thai with peanut sauce.
Best, Jim