I had the good fortune to host John and Peg Grange last night. Scallops and crab cakes, followed by lobsters, ending with some cheese. Eileen made a salad from the farmer’s market for in-between. A Champagne, two whites and a red. John and Peg are among the finest people I have ever met, plus so nice to have wine lovers in the house. I opened the really, really good stuff.
The Champagne was my import, so no note, but will say that it was not embarrassed, which is saying a lot.
2009 Chandon de Briailles Corton Blanc - My last and best bottle. This still looks no more than a couple of years old. The aromas are gorgeous, floral and citric, only the intensity gives away the age, still more primary than secondary. The palate shows incredible balance with racy acidity, minerals and great power; muscular, zero fat in this. Taut and totally harmonious to the extremely long finish. You are standing in a hot, dry, beautiful, primitive place, all senses alert, looking at very dark red roses growing right out of granite. Rated 99.
2003 Mount Eden Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains - Medium deep gold color. John Grange said it looked like twenty years but smelled like five. The aromas are a nice blend of bosc Pear and Gala apple, with a real hint of conifer and both some mineral and some earthiness. The palate is lovely, the texture is pleasingly plump, a complete contrast to the previous, but a beauty in its own right. There is a tiny, welcome citric note. For those who use butter with lobster, the richness makes sense. Another very great wine. Rated 96.
2010 Comte Lafon Monthelie-Les Duresses 1er Cru - Medium dark garnet color to the rim, healthy color, looks young. The aromas are a nice mix of red and black fruit, mostly raspberry with some cherry. There’s minerality and youth, a hint of spice. The palate is young and vigorous, the fruit now more black, showing some nice twisty intricacy towards the finish. This an excellent young wine, a singleton, opened too young. Rated 91, up to two points of improvement likely over 5+ years.
Dan Kravitz