You should get the prize for the best WB travel thread! What a delight.
Interesting that Termini is as much a mess as it was last time I went by–many many years ago. Some things never change.
And reading about carciofi alla guidia is perfect on Yom Kippur 
(in case you don’t know, that’s the day of atonement, when religious Jews fast. The dish is Jewish-style artichokes, a favorite of Roman Jewish cuisine).
Today we have 10am reservations for the Galleria Borghese - it’s important to book on-line in advance as they limit the number of visitors and usually sell out. Immediately upon admission we are sent up the ancient circular staircase to the to top floor gallery. A grand collection of old masters with a special exhibit focused on Tiziano or Titian as we know him. Despite the limited admission and timed entry this is the most crowded of the sites we have visited thus far. The museum was pretty amazing though and it is definitely worth a visit. I particularly enjoyed all the Bernini sculptures.
After our museum visit we exited the park and walked up Via zoo to the charming neighborhood of Quariere Coppedè. Conceived and designed by the architect Gino Coppedè in 1919 it is a fantastical mix of many architectural styles. Very pretty to stroll through and featuring the lovely Fountain of Frogs. We stopped for a mid morning coffee break to rest the legs. Then began our trek up and over the hills of Monti to approach the backside of the Colosseum. All of us have been before and had no interest in wading into the crowds - just wanted the view and some pictures.
Next we tried to head to Urbana 47 for lunch but the outdoor tables were full and the a/c wasn’t working so we moved along Via Urbana and sat down at Non c’e Trippa pe’gatti. It was shaded and open, but rather a mediocre lunch of salads and a bottle of Offida Pecorino.
Walked back home and rested up before 7:30 dinner tonight at Roscioli Salumeria. Our table is downstairs in the Wine Cellar and the place is packed with a queue outside the restaurant to get in for the 7:30 slot. Pretty much entirely American tourists. Food and wine are great but the warm service we usually experience here is not on display. They just seem slammed and busy. I have always enjoyed the dialogue and recommendations of the servers in the past and this most of all was what was missing. I suspect Rome like everywhere else is suffering from staffing shortages due to the pandemic combined with a massive wave of tourism. We started with the classic Burrata with sun dried cherry tomatoes and Italian Prosciutto selection, then I staying true to form had the amatriciana. Desert was a delicious strawberry confection of some sort. Shared two bottles of wine a Il Coroncino Verdicchio and the Emidio Pepe.
Lovely walk home through Piazza Navona, Pantheon and Trevi Fountain. Great day - 13 miles!
(9/17/2022)
From the wine list at Roscioli Salumeria, Rome. Another new producer in a region I really enjoy. This one seemed to lack some of the tension and vibrancy I prefer in my favorite producer but was still easy to drink and went well with the burrata with sun dried cherry tomatoes and assortment of Italian prosciutto.
(9/17/2022)
From the wine list at Roscioli Salumeria, Rome. We first discovered Emilio Pepe at a meal here so we always order it when we dine here. Nose of dark berries and earth. Lots of youthful fruit, tannins and energy but open juicy open and enjoyable to drink.
(9/17/2022)
From the wine list at Non c’è trippa pe’gatti, Rome. Quick stop for lunch on Via Urbana. This was a quaffer, cold and refreshing with salads on a sunny day. Wouldn’t seek it out but it was fine for what it was.
Sundays are for relaxing and that is just what we did. Spent the morning catching up on tasting notes and reading. Our friend ventured out to tackle the Vatican and we took the morning off. We have booked a proper 1 pm Saturday lunch at Grano Ristorante another of our favorites. We chose to sit indoors today due to good air conditioning! Started by sharing the tuna tartare and the fave bean purée, then onto Rack of Lamb, Sea Bass and Tuna for mains. With an excellent 2020 Oltre Torrente Timorasso. Opted for the millefoglie with a glass of Moscato d’Asti for desert.
On the walk home we popped into San Ignacio of Loyola to admire the frescoes.
Simple dinner of salumi, cheese, grapes and bread with a bottle of Fiano on the terrace - early bedtime. Only 3.5 miles today but sometimes you need a chill day!
(9/18/2022)
From the wine list at Grano, Roma. Served with starters of tuna tartare and fave bean purée and a main of roast lamb. I really enjoyed this wine starting with the fragrant nose of citrus and straw. On the palate it has some nice body with citrus, minerals and a touch of waxiness, persistent finish.
(9/18/2022)
Enjoyed on our terrace over two nights. Great producer of Fiano - lively acidity and stone fruit with minerals coming through on the finish. Young and bright would be interested to try these with about 5 years of age.
Started the day with a good power walk and visit to the gym as this afternoon we are headed out for a winery visit at Tenuta di Fiorano. We had a 2pm appointment and arranged to have a driver pick us up at 1pm. Located 13kms outside of Rome, roughly along the Appian Way. , getting out of Central Rome with traffic takes about 45 minutes. We discovered the Fiorano Bianco on a trip to Rome five years ago and really enjoyed it and were really looking forward to the visit. The winery was started by Prince Alberico Boncampagni Ludovisi in the 1940’s when he decided to grow international varieties, at that time unheard of in Italy. He made fine and age worthy wines until 1998 when he decided to tear out all the vines. His nephew Alessandrojacopo under Alberico’s direction replanted the vines and followed his methods and has revived the brand, ultimately inheriting the estate. They make only four wines the two Fioranellos Rosso and Bianco and the two Fioranos Rosso and Bianco. We were met at the estate by Alessandrojacopo’s wife Carolina who gave us a tour of the estate and its history before driving to the function room for our tasting. The estate dates back centuries in the Boncompanie Ludovisi family which boasts two popes in their lineage. On a clear day from the center of the property you can see St Peter’s dome and CastelGandolfo the pope’s summer residence each are 13kms away. The soil is volcanic and rich with minerals. During our visit everything was quite dry given the hot summer. We also viewed Alberico’s prized garden which is a collection of exotic plants he has brought back from travel’s around the world.
At the tasting, we had a lovely table set for us and tasted the two whites and then the reds accompanied by honey from estate’s bee hives, olive oil from their trees and cheese from the sheep that graze their land.
Carolina was charming company, and we loved the wines particularly the Fiorano Bianco and Rosso.
(9/19/2022)
Tasted at the estate. 50/50 blend of Grechetto and Viognier from their younger vines. Straw yellow in color, fragrant nose. Tropical fruit and minerals particularly on the finish. Easy drinking and enjoyable, not as complex as the Fiorano but very pleasant.
(9/19/2022)
Tasted at the estate, side by side with the Fioranello Bianco. The color is a bit deeper golden and the nose is floral and tropical fruit. A 50/50 blend of Grechetto and Viognier - the 17 is still the current release. The wines spend time in old oak and chestnut barrels on the lees and then age in bottle for a number of years before release. Stone fruit, florals and minerality all in great balance. Very satisfying and delicious.
(9/19/2022)
Tasted at the estate alongside the 2013 Fiorano Rosso. 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in oak for one year. The nose has a lot of earth and dark berries. This is quite soft and plush with red fruits and an earthy backdrop. Very easy and accessible, early drinking.
(9/19/2022)
Tasted at the estate alongside the 2020 Fioranello Rosso. The Fiorano is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged in large Slovenian oak barrels. The wines are then aged in bottle and held back for a number of years, the 2013 is the current release. This was more concentrated than the Fioranello with finely grained tannins, red fruits and a distinctive minerality on the finish that brought added complexity. Very enjoyable!
I think the Bernini are the most amazing sculptures I have seen anywhere in the world!
Are most of the churches you’ve posted just open to walk in?
Hi Alan - yes we walk by see a church with the doors open and just pop in. There are literally thousands of amazingly elaborate churches here with amazing artwork - quite mind boggling actually!
The Berninis at the the Galleria Borghese are beyond belief. And yes, churches are almost always open and very often worth the effort.
Our destination this morning was Palatine Hill. Our first of two failed attempts. Working off memory from our last visit 20 years ago, faulty GPS and conflicting info from Google searches. We expected to enter the park from the back entrance and found ourselves wandering up and down streets to no avail. Finally realizing we would need to walk around the other side of Piazza Venezia, we shifted course and headed for Aventino - a good decision!
Passing Circus Maximus, which is currently fitted up as a concert venue with a temporary stage and bleachers, we climbed up the Aventine hill. At the top you are rewarded with the peaceful orange grove and the stunning views of Rome from the Belvedere Luigi Magni. Just down the street is the charming keyhole view of St Peter’s basilica from the Priory of the Knights of Malta. You queue to peek through an old fashioned skeleton key hole that looks through a tunnel style hedgerow out to a perfectly framed view of the basilica. Very difficult to capture in a picture - at least beyond my skills, but we got lucky that one of the doors was temporarily open to let someone out and got a quick off center picture. Very relaxing vibe up here - few tourists and outstanding views.
Looking for a cafe for a mid morning coffee break - we made our way down the backside of the hill and ended up in Testaccio - a new neighborhood for us. Totally charming we sat down in the crowded (with locals) Gran Caffè on the Piazza Testaccio for cappuccino then walked around noting places to return for a meal. Cool butcher shop on the corner where they were carrying in half carcasses of beef from a truck. And a small home goods store where we were finally able to buy some cheap unscented candles for the terrace.
We then made our way over to the Termi di Caracalla, old Roman bath complex dating to 212 AD. This was quite spectacular, with some of the old mosaics still visible. The facilities were quite expansive with baths on many different levels and apparently could accommodate between 5-6,000 bathers per day. Ultimately they were abandoned around 537 AD, when the King of the Visigoths destroyed the aqueducts and cut off the water supply to Rome. Very interesting and educational, highly recommended.
Dinner tonight is our second try at Al Moro. This was our favorite restaurant in Rome and we wanted to share the experience with our friend on her last night. Unfortunately the surly service was in evidence again. At least we were seated in the more pleasant left front room and the food was delicious as always. We started by sharing the roasted porcini mushrooms and then true to form, I had the veal scallopine with artichokes. For desert we split the profiteroles.
Another good walking day 10.6 miles
(9/20/2022)
Picked this up at our local wine shop and had with a light lunch of tomato salad and prosciutto on the terrace. Rich mouthfeel with balancing acidity, pairs very nicely with food.
(9/20/2022)
Final night of our friend’s visit to Rome so we splurged a bit, from the wine list at Al Moro, Rome. A rich mouth coating Chardonnay, but not at all buttery. This is good and enjoyable, but I think there is just as much drinking pleasure at far lower price levels among Italian white wines.
Our friend left for the airport at 6am, so we had an early breakfast and hung out catching up on tasting notes, journaling and reading. Eventually we got around to doing our 5 mile Borghese power walk followed by a trip to the gym. Grocery shopping and lunch at home, followed by laundry and a nap. Just like home! Caught up with family and friends on WhatsApp calls and made a light dinner followed by an evening stroll. 10.1 miles today not bad for a chill day!
Pictures of the delightful turtles sunning themselves in the pond at the Borghese gardens. I love the outstretched foot!
(9/21/2022)
First time with this producer, and this seems a bit chunky and unbalanced to me. Perhaps it needs more time in bottle to come together but based on this experience I will not seek this out again. Drank over two nights and it was similar on both outings.
Early start with a walk to Villa Doria Pamphili Park via Trastevere, with a quick detour to the Pantheon as it was open and there wasn’t a line. I just love this place!!! Back on course we head over the Sisto bridge and stop in for a quick coffee break at Bar Cinque - seriously cute little place. Then down a few steets and up some steep stairs you arrive at the Il Fontanone, the Giancola Hill Fountain, continuing uphill we arrive at the entrance to the park. Villa Doria Pamphili is the largest public park in Rome and home to the Casino del Bel Respiro, in my opinion one of the prettiest buildings I’ve ever seen. The house is surrounded by a lovely formal landscaped garden. The house and garden are owned by the government and used to host visiting dignitaries. Once a month they are open to the public for guided tours, which can be requested by sending an email and providing the necessary information. I have requested for the October date, but have not heard whether we will be admitted. The park itself is a great place for exercise, strolling and picnicking. The lack of rain and heat have made things quite dry at the moment, but there is always shade to be found.
No line at the Pantheon!
Bar Cinque Trastevere
Il Fontanone
Villa Doria Pamphili
After getting our miles in we decided to wind our way down through Trastevere and cross back into Testaccio for lunch. I had read about Salumeria Volpetti and wanted to try it, but while it was closed for lunch, Taverna Volpetti next door was open. We sat outside and had an excellent lunch. Wonderful food, wine and service- such a great experience! Highly recommended. We shared the zucchini flowers, ricotta and bottarga. Then I had the Testaroli (ancient Roman pasta) with basil pesto, green beans an potatoes and my husband had the seared Ombrina fish with almonds, eggplant and basil oil. We were so relaxed we opted for the pan a cotta with basil, almond and raspberries for desert. With one of our favorites Fattoria Dan Lorenzo Le Oche.
Back on the road to home we stopped into the Chiesa di Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli, dedicated to the Virgin Mary after the plague and finished in 1667. Smaller in scale and very pretty.
Light dinner on the terrace - great day! 11.5 miles
(9/22/2022)
From the wine list at Taverna Volpetti, Rome. This was amazing, punching way above its price point. Drank this with a meal of zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and bottarga and Testaroli pasta with basil pesto, green beans and potatoes. This wine is really complex, bright fruit and minerals long finish just awesome!
Thanks again for a really good post, full of info, great pics, and enthusiasm.
Seeing your TN for the San Lorenzo Verdicchio makes me wonder how it might compare with the Collestefano Verdicchio di Matelica that I mentioned above. If you run into that one, I’d heartily recommend you try it. Not expensive either, I got them for $14 over here.
Wow!!! Just wow!!! This has quickly become a must thread on this forum. Thank you so much @Maire_ONeill for all of this
Good morning- been a while since I have caught up here. More guests and super busy. Want to thank you all for your various suggestions and feedback.
@Daniele_Bevs we did make it to Tivoli for Villa d’este and Villa Adriana, a wonderful day trip! Yesterday we took the train out to Ostia Antica, also a great half day visit. Another day we did the Apia Antica walk - so we are getting out a bit. We will be trying Trecca for dinner next week.
@Peter_Kleban - we did try the Collestafano VdM when I saw it on a list the other night. It was super lean and mineral compared withe the VdCs which I prefer. I have only tried the Matelica wines a few times but they have consistently been leaner. Our server said the VdM is at higher altitude so they are more mineral and stony. Thanks for the recommendation good to compare and contrast.
@Keith_A_k_e_r_s thanks for the kind words
@JohnCummings thanks for your restaurant suggestion we will have to try and get over there this week
@JackW_e_i_s_s_b_e_r_g thanks for your kind words
@Andrew_Kotowski we do have a lot of guests- four sets in eight weeks. All close friends we are really happy to see but a bit hard to balance staying true to our personal goals and journey and having to be a host. This week we are guest free but then our last eight days here have two sets back to back. Already decided we are meeting for dinner, but no repeat tourism for us.
I will try and get back to the story soon, but thanks for following along!
Thanks for the update, Maire! Glad to hear things are going well, if a bit hectic. Always hard to be the host while on vacation.
Sorry the Collestefano isn’t your type. What you say fits with my tastes, I definitely tend to prefer leaner wines. Still, you never know what will come along that “breaks the rule”. I’ll have to try some of your faves, like the 2020 Fattoria San Lorenzo Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Elevato 12 Mesi Sui Propro Lieviti Le Oche if I can find it.
@Maire_ONeill - thanks for the updates, here is wishing you some private time!! 
Morning power walk and gym. Grocery provisions at our favorite little shop on Via Lombardi for salumi, cheese and prepared foods and the Carrefour Express on Via Vittoria for staples. This evening our friend’s son and his girlfriend, who happen to be visiting Rome are stopping over for Apertivo on the terrace. We had a lovely visit with them, hearing about their two week trip all over Europe and sharing some wine.
A beautiful night, the weather has turned cooler so we stay on the balcony for a simple dinner.
Relaxing day less walking though only 6 miles.
(9/23/2022)
With dinner on the terrace - very pale in color. On the palate this is light, delicate, red fruited and earthy very approachable and easy. Drinking well now and enjoyable at 17 euro this is a great deal.
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(9/23/2022)
With dinner on the terrace. This producer just delivers really interesting and delicious wines. I would have preferred to hold this back and try in a few more years but when in Rome…. A step up in concentration and power from the Le Oche - this is very complex with a lot of things happening- the yin and yang oh rich flavors with soaring acidity and the long mineral finish. Really good!
This morning we have an 11 appointment for a guided tour at Villa Medici - the building we have been looking at from our terrace for the last few weeks. It is only possible to visit with a guided tour as it is a private building housing the French Academy of art and an active studio and learning space for the artists in residence. A truly beautiful building with a beautiful facade only visible from the courtyard. The gardens are quite impressive laid out with the Renaissance ideals of symmetry and the balance of natural and architectural elements. Very much worth a visit if you are in Rome for a few days.
After our visit we strolled around and ended up stopping for lunch at the shady and inviting D’Orso 80 on Via Orso. Decent and relaxing lunch of Saltimboco with a bottle of Vermentino.
Continued our neighborhood wander after lunch and found a great tea shop on Via dei Banchi Nuovi. So to get some good Earl Grey loose leaf and a proper tea pot. Oh the things you miss when you are away from home. Ultimately we ended up at the cocktail bar Salotto 42 overlooking Hadrian’s temple. I had been jonesing for a dirty martini so thought we’d give it a try. Great view from our front row seat but weak effort on the martini.
Dinner at home on the terrace with chicken and peppers and sautéed zucchini. Another light walk day 5.5 miles.
(9/24/2022)
With dinner at home - easy quaffer with balanced fruit and acidity but more simple without layers or lingering finish .
(9/24/2022)
From the wine list at D’Orso 80. Solid Italian white, bright and fruity with good balance.
Today we decided to explore Villa Ada Park in Northern Rome. Up through the Borghese Gardens and out the backside we wound our way North to Villa Ada, the second largest park in Rome. Very different in feel and layout, much of the park is heavily wooded so feels more akin to a wider hiking trail. More natural and with less architectural elements this was still a nice shady respite from the busy streets of Rome. Was interested to see the floating cinema which sits in the serpentine lake.
After a full circuit of the park we made our way over to Coppedè to have lunch at a little cafe we like, Alam Bicco. Nice to have Sunday lunch off the beaten path and watch a large Roman family gathering for a private lunch in the back of the restaurant. We had a lovely meal of chicken and pasta with a glass of Insolia.
Walked back home and relaxed until dinner. Tonight we got takeout from PizzaRe - pretty tasty! Great walking day -12 miles!
(9/25/2022)
By the glass at Alam Bicco in the Coppede neighborhood of Rome. 100% Insolia from Sicily. Another first time with this grape variety and producer. Straw colored with a fragrant floral nose. More of a rich mouthfeel, but was not particularly distinctive relative to acidity and minerality. Pleasant with lunch but not a stand out.
(9/25/2022)
A random pickup from the organic grocery store near our place in Rome. This is kind of spritzy tasting like there was extra fermentation in the bottle. Blows off a bit with air. This is tart and fruity, quite aromatic with honeysuckle aromas. Kind of different but quite refreshing. Not sure I’d want a lot but went well with the pizza. On day 2 this was simply awful - complete disintegration.
Thank you @Maire_ONeill this is a must read every day, having spent a wonderful week in Rome with the family a few years ago, where we dined at a few of the restaurants that you have visited.
Your ‘blog’ will be an invaluable source when we visit next, and am loving your impressions of the whites in particular. I am on a bit of a Falanghina tear at the moment, so hoping you might bust a couple before you leave 
Thanks Maire.
Had three wonderful days in Rome a couple of week’s back. A brilliant seafood meal at Pierluigi, killer list there too. La Taverna Dei Fori Imperiali is also terrific and after consultation with a couple of the local Carabinieri, we had one of the best pizzas I have eaten at Sophia.
Thanks @Kent_Comley we have had a handful of Falanghinas, so far my favorite remains theLa Sibella Cruna de Lago. I have been on a Friulano tear though!
Thanks @Jeremy_Holmes, we also had a great meal at Pierluigi this past weekend - more like NY pricing than anywhere else we’ve been but great food and a lovely experience. Will keep my eye out for Sophia, our pizza loving friends arrive tomorrow.
Rainy today for the first time, so headed to the gym. Then after a quick lunch at home we decided to visit the Villa Doria Pamphili gallery on Via Corso. A bit of a wet slog there in the pouring rain, but definitely worth the effort, this place was incredible. Ornate hallways with art hung from the floor to ceiling on both sides. Also a hall of mirrors similar to Versailles. Just an amazing treasure trove of old masters.
By the time we finished up the sun was thinking about peeking out so we took advantage and climbed of the Vittoria Emmanuel monument in Piazza Venezia. Was beautiful with the dramatic skies.
On the walk back we decided to stop for an early dinner at Enoteca Antica on Via Della Croce. We shared the sautéed mussels and clams with salads and a bottle of Pecorino. This place was super touristy and we wouldn’t return.
Back home for a glass on the terrace and turn in early. 7 miles not bad for a rainy day!
(9/26/2022)
From the wine list at Enoteca Antica, Rome. Another new producer to try. Served quite chilled this had a tropical nose and was quite delicious with white peaches and very tangy - good finish. Went great with a bowl of sautéed mussels and clams.
Today we decided to try and tackle Palatine hill for the second time. We packed a picnic lunch in the backpack and headed out. A quick stop into the church of the Apostles on on walk - love the statues on the facade.
Then down to the tourist clusterbomb that is via Imperial Fore. My husband was convinced that we didn’t need tickets to go to Palatine hill and that it had a separate entrance to the Forum. To be fair- this is information he found on a google search. I was seeing signs that indicated a combined ticket office. We waded into the crowd, past the hawkers and tour groups, noting the line of hundreds waiting to get into the forum. Winding past that we began to climb the hill, up and up with a fence blocking the view for most of the way. Finally reaching the top and a small old church. Alas, we could peer through the fence but not get in. Indeed you can only enter the Palatine Hill complex by buying a combined ticket to the forum and crowd surfing with the masses- not for us!
Dejected we made our way across the Hadrian’s market catwalk into the Monti neighborhood searching for a park to enjoy our picnic. We ended up stopping in the Quirinale park where dive bombing pigeons unsuccessfully tried to get us to drop our food. A fitting end to our misguided morning. After a short amble through the neighborhood we decided to lick our wounds at a little cafe GioGio with a glass of wine. That fortified us enough to take us over to Il Goccetto where we shared a lovely bottle of Beyond the Clouds.
Hadrian’s market catwalk - a shortcut to Monti
Lunch in the park watch out for pigeons
Il Goccetto
Simple dinner of zuppa and salad on the terrace. 8.2 miles today
(9/27/2022)
From the wine list at Il Goccetto, Rome. Beautiful sunny day 73 degrees outdoor table with shade - smoking wine - a perfect afternoon! Nose is quite aromatic particularly on swirling. Great balance and concentration here lots to linger over- really enjoyed.
(9/27/2022)
From the small glass list at GioGio, Rome. We split two glasses here and I did not care for this very lean and mineral - like drinking a mouthful of gravel.
(9/27/2022)
From the glass list at GioGio, Rome. Liked this much better than the Frascati more floral and fruity with lift from the acidity. Decent glass of wine.
(9/27/2022)
Another inexpensive Roman grocery store purchase, had at home with simple dinner of zucchini soup and pizza Bianca. Fresh and tangy, had good vibrancy and brightness.
Started the day with another power walk in the Borghese gardens and visit to the gym. Today’s excursion is an afternoon visit to the Palazzo Barberini museum. Very different in style to the Villa Doria Pamphili and the Villa Farnesina, this is more paired back aesthetic with fewer works of art in each room. The lower rooms focus on earlier works with religious themes. Upstairs more renaissance period old masters. Once again the Caravaggios are stunning and the Holbein painting of Henry VIII is captivating. The enormous ballroom with the fresco the Triumph of Divina Providentia - Apotheosis of the House of Barberini and the Papacy of Urban VIII by Pietro da Cortona. It is hard to capture on film but it was really something to behold given the sheer size. Finally the famous oval staircase by Bartolommeo was also fascinating. The museum was fairly empty, we were often the only visitors in each room. Also loved the happy cats sunning themselves in the entryway courtyard. Definitely recommended if you have multiple days in Rome.
Afterwards we wandered over to the nearby Cappuchin Crypt which has alters made from human bones. Decidedly creepy but also quite delicate and beautiful - no photos are allowed to be taken here.
Next stop was over towards the termini to visit the well reviewed Enoteca Tramini Wine store and bar for a drink. Unfortunately we didn’t cross check the hours for the wine bar which was closed, but enjoyed browsing their selection. I still think Enoteca Costantini has a broader selection and a better location for us. Getting kind of thirsty we decided to drop by the lobby bar at the St. Regis Hotel. We had stayed here a handful of times in the early 00’s so feeling a bit nostalgic. I decided to go with a Bloody Mary - but it continued on the theme of cocktails not being great - guess I will be sticking with wine.
Passing by Rinascente, we stopped in to check out the food hall and apparently the rooftop bar for a sunset cocktail. As a NYer I usually avoid rooftop bars like the plague and this certainly had that element, but the views were nice so we stayed for a drink and enjoyed the sunset.
At this point ready for dinner without a reservation we popped over to see our friends at life Ristorante on Via Della Vite and had a lovely meal. A long walking day 13 miles!
(9/28/2022)
From the wine list at life Ristorante, Rome. With Filetto of beef and black truffle. This was light in body, very earthy, red fruited with a core of acidity and a silky texture. Went very nicely with the food.
@Maire_ONeill sorry to ask, have you already attempted Vatican?
EDIT Also, premise: I don’t want to sound like the average Italian pointing fingers against tourists (I’m not, much better things to do in life). I just wanted to genuinely know: How deep do you think you’ve digged in Roman cuisine?
@Daniele_Bevs no we have avoided the Vatican on this trip as we have visited in the past and have a general aversion to crowds. Regarding the cuisine, we just have been trying different restaurants and ordering dishes that appeal to our tastes. No attempt or claims to be doing a deep dive on the cuisine - for us the whole purpose of our trip is to try and enjoy the pleasures of life at our own reasonable pace. Also neither of us are home cooks, so where some might choose to immerse themselves in a cooking course to learn more about the local cuisine, this isn’t one of our interests. We love food, and wine though, however I am more apt to dip into the unknown with wine choices rather than food.
There used to be an entrance to the Palantine Hill near the top. I seem to remember getting a combined ticket. Entering at the top and leaving through the forum
@Barry_L_i_p_t_o_n yes that is exactly what we remembered but alas no longer seems to exist