Happy Thanksgiving everyone!! Sitting here in La Morra, getting ready to kick off a 8 day extravaganza of Barolo tasting and truffle eating, but had a quiet morning to catch up on my backlog. Hope everyone has a wonderful day with family, friends good food & wine!
Morning stroll in Trastevere. Rainy evening so we ended up cancelling our dinner plans and went to the grocery store to make dinner at home. Our friend is a great chef so he whipped up some Cacio e Pepe and balsamic asparagus alongside a salumi and burrata platter to share at home. Nice quiet day and evening before our friends morning departure. No pics today!
Italy, Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi
(10/11/2022)
At home with dinner. Color was practically orange which was surprising. Nose of freshly unbundled straw. This was very waxy, with strong bitter notes, oxidative flavors, minimal fruit - very strange. I couldn’t get past the first few sips. Not sure if the wine was flawed or this was the style - but a definite pass.
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Italy, Lombardia, Valtellina, Rosso di Valtellina
(10/11/2022)
At home with dinner, switched to this after the unpalatable Gentlie Derthona. Super light, delicate almost - cherries- pretty aromatics. Our friends found this one way too light - we rather like it.
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Italy, Sicily, Etna DOC
(10/11/2022)
At home with dinner, fresh red fruited, earth, medium bodied, light tannins. Straight forward and easy to drink.
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Italy, Latium, Vino da Tavola
(10/11/2022)
At home with dinner. Last bottle of the night, consistent with prior note. Tannins more noticeable after the previous reds, but I still think this is drinking really well now.
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Our friends left this morning and we spent the rest of the day just doing nothing. Totally exhausted! Take out dinner at home with Fiorano
Italy, Latium, Vino da Tavola
(10/12/2022)
With dinner at home. Feet up, guests have departed time to chill. A repeat note here as we bought a few for home consumption on our visit to the estate. I always enjoy this wine, rich, delicious, balanced and complex.
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Rainy day today, so we took a taxi over to Ostiense to explore the Museo Centrale Montemartini. Housed in an old historic power plant that is no longer in use. The museum houses a selection of sculptures and archaeological artifacts that are set among the large industrial engines. Makes for a very visually striking display. Less crowded than other museums and definitely worth a visit.
By the time we finished at the museum the rain had tapered off to a light drizzle so we opted to walk over to the Testaccio Mercato for lunch and some grocery shopping. On the way, we happened by the Museo diffuse del rione Testaccio, a cemetery for British soldiers that were killed during WWII. It was very peaceful and quiet, and quite moving. If you happen to be in that area stop and take a moment to reflect.
In contrast to the Trionfale Mercato, there were lots of stalls with prepared foods and tables to eat at in the Testaccio Mercato. I grabbed a delicious Vitella e Carciofi sandwich from Box #15 Mordi & Via. Lots of choices here and a long line - so clearly very popular! My husband made a healthier choice and opted for a Farro Salad from a different stall.
After lunch - we stopped at a few stalls to buy fruit & vegetables. Then wanting some chicken to make at home we stopped at a butcher stall - earlier we had passed by and they had a tray of beautiful thin breaded cutlets - but now they were all gone. We asked if they had more and with in 2 minutes - he filleted a whole chicken, sliced, breaded and packaged the cutlets for us - amazing! Something like 6 euro for 3 cutlets hand prepared!
From here we headed over to a cafe in Testaccio for a caffeine bump before taking the 2 mile walk back to our apartment. Also a quick stop in the handy home goods store we found here to buy some ice cube trays for the apartment - Ice is a rare commodity in Rome. We are finding we really love this neighborhood and would probably seek to stay here if in Rome again.
Chilled on the terrace for the afternoon and made dinner at home. 6 miles of walking - back in the saddle again!
Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Friuli Colli Orientali
(10/13/2022)
On the terrace with dinner. This was golden yellow, fragrant with tropical fruit. A fuller bodied wine, with great texture, fruit ,minerals and a nice spine of acidity. Nice finish- really enjoyable. Will seek this out again.
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Italy, Piedmont, Colli Tortonesi
(10/13/2022)
With dinner on the terrace. This was nice, but not as concentrated or riveting as the Costa del Vento we had recently and not much better than the basic Massa derthona.
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Today we did a half day trip out to visit Ostia Antica. Walked to the Circo Massimo Metro Station (about 1.5 miles), at the Basilica San Paolo stop we transferred to the Lido line and took it to Ostia Antica (about a 30 minute journey). Train delivers you very close to the entrance of the park.
The park is quite large - so wear comfortable shoes and be prepared for walking the old stone paths. It stretches out about one mile from end to end - centered around a main boulevard, then with cross streets as you get the center of the village that go in either direction. Very well preserved with the walls of most of the buildings largely intact, many mosaic floors still visible and it is easy to envision the layout of the community. Founded in 620 BC, it was a port city that thrived due to the nearby salt flats used to preserve meat and later became a Roman naval base and then a commercial port during the Roman Empire. After the fall of Rome the port was abandoned and the harbor silted up, covering the ruins. When it was excavated much of the ruins were still largely intact. I really enjoyed this visit and found it more relatable than a visit to Pompei a number of years ago. After a couple hours of wandering the site, we took the train back to Rome.
Having worked up a thirst, we stopped at our favorite Il Goccetto on the way home for lunch and a bottle of Fiano and an extra glass.
Dinner at home on the terrace. 9 Miles today!!
Italy, Campania, Fiano di Avellino DOCG
(10/14/2022)
From the wine list at Il Goccetto, Rome. A very nice bottle, lemon lime acidity, wet stones, rich stone fruit - elegant and composed. With prosciutto, mozzarella and tomato bruschetta.
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Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
(10/14/2022)
From the glass list at Il Goccetto, Rome. This was a lovely glass of wine, with distinct pineapple notes on the nose and palate. Bright acids and luscious pineapple- delicious! Had this with cheesecake and berries.
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Italy, Campania, Falanghina del Sannio
(10/14/2022)
Inexpensive pick up at the grocery store. Very fresh, good fruit and a streak of salinity. At home with dinner of Cacio e Pepe and sautéed chicory. Wish I could find daily drinkers at this price in the US. Consumed over two nights - held up well.
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Today we decided to explore a new neighborhood for us Pigneto. We took the metro from Piazza Spagna to to San Giovanni and walked to Pigneto from there. A fun, funky, young neighborhood with lots of wall mural street art - has a Brooklyn vibe. Via Pigneto a pedestrian only street runs down the middle and is packed with a local street market, cafes and restaurants. The street runs down to the train tracks, which are crossed by a pedestrian bridge to reach the metro station and other side of the neighborhood. We tried to grab a table at Necca dal 1938 for lunch, but they were fully committed with no shady tables available. So we walked back over the bridge and tried Bosco - a small restaurant that specializes the cuisine of Abruzzo with a focus on truffles and natural wine. Great lunch here and the owner was a really nice guy. We got to see the daily haul of truffles arrive from Abruzzo - smelled delicious!
From Pigneto we walked home, stopping to visit San Giovanni in Laterno Church. One of four papal churches in Rome (St. Peter’s at the Vatican, St. Maria Maggiore and St. Paul outside the walls are the other three). It is a huge cathedral with large striking statues of the apostles lining the walls. Very impressive!
Closer to home we stopped for a glass of wine/beer at a tiny little bar - Pane e Pane. Got into a funny conversation with the older gentleman who owned the bar and upon learning we were from NYC, he told us stories of how in the 80’s he used to go to NYC a lot to sell Italian Strip Bonds to JP Morgan!!
Dinner at home tonight with an evening walk down to the Pantheon! 10 miles today!
Italy, Abruzzi, Abruzzo
(10/15/2022)
From the wine list at Bosco, Rome. A restaurant that specializes in the mountain food of Abruzzo, particularly truffles. We paired this with pumpkin soup with black truffle, bruschetta and taglioni with white truffle. Slightly hazy, the taste was clear and clean, minerals and salinity with apple and citrus. Went well with the food.
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Started the day with a brisk power walk along the lower banks of the Tiber. We started on the Rome side closest to our apartment but after a few bridge sections we discovered lots of homeless encampments and a generally untended path - but we saw tons of people exercising on the Trastevere side - so climbed up and crossed over to the other side at the Sisto Bridge. Lots of bikers, runners and walkers getting exercise on this beautiful morning. We did six miles (3 out/3back) and were surprised how quiet and green the scenery became once we passed through the Trastevere neighborhood.
Sunday lunch reservations today at Pierluigi - probably the fanciest place we ate during our stay in Rome. All seating is done outside in the piazza under large umbrellas for shade. Pricing here for food is more akin to NYC and the wine list prices are much higher than elsewhere in Rome. The seafood and service were quite good though! Seems like quite the place to see and be seen in Rome.
Big lunch - no need for dinner tonight. 8 miles!
Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico
(10/16/2022)
From the wine list at Pierluigi, Rome. This was delicious and paired brilliantly with the seafood lunch. Mineral, crisp, rich fruit, elegant finish- delightful!
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France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
(10/16/2022)
From the glass list at Pierluigi, Rome. Very crisp and racy, fine bubbles, lemony citrus and minerals. Didn’t really get any biscuit or richness- was all lean and more austere. Had as a starter before food was served.
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Started the morning with a visit to the Ara Pacis Museum, having walked past this almost daily decided it was time for a visit. Really quite spectacular the size of the monument, but beware for a 10 euro admission price it is pretty much the only thing on display. We had previously seen panels that were removed from the Ara Pacis on the facade of the Villa Medici so it was nice to be able to link the two.
From here we crossed the bridge and decided to explore the Prati neighborhood. Stopped for a caffeine break at a friendly cafe on a tree lined street. Wandered around to get a feel for the neighborhood, seems very leafy and high end residential, with a few chic shopping streets, before interesting with the Vatican neighborhood. We decided to face the potential line and hit Panificio Bonci for lunch. Bonci was not open on Mondays, but they also sell the pizza at Panificio with a smaller selection. I had just watched the Chef’s Table Pizza Bonci episode on Netflix so was quite keen to try. Upon arriving you take a ticket and stand on the street until your number is called. Probably took about 20 minutes the day we were there. We tried the potato pizza, mortadella and focaccia and pizza Rossa with ricotta. Once you get the food you basically stand around on the street and eat it! Delicious!!! Walked home and chilled for a few hours.
After 5, we walked over to Enoteca Costantini to resupply wine as we have guests arriving in two days. Dinner at home with some Netflix. 8 miles today!
Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
(10/17/2022)
At home with dinner, this was fine if not a particular stand out for me. I think I prefer the Ribolla Gialla when it is blended with other grapes.
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So after being away from home for 6 weeks, guess what you got to get your hair taken care of. We got the name of a hair salon from a Roman who seemed to have great hair and made appointments for today. So the morning was spent taking care of the hair!!
Afterwards we headed for lunch at a restaurant I had been trying to get a reservation at for a while, Matriacella. This was recommended to us last month by Carolina from Tenuta Fiorano and I really wanted to try it before we left. Glad we did we had a great meal outside for lunch with a lovely bottle of 2017 Capo Martino.
Relaxed this afternoon as tomorrow guests arrive for four nights followed by a second set of guests for four more nights. A light walking day 4.5 miles.
Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Venezia Giulia IGT
(10/18/2022)
From the wine list at Matricianella, Rome. A blend of Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia and Picolit. First time with this wine and we really liked it. Rich golden color, concentrated nose of flowers and tropical fruit. On the palate this was waxy with balance between the fruit, nuts and acids. Persistent finish.
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Italy, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Collio
(10/18/2022)
Picked this up at Enoteca Costantini, lower price point than the other Friulanos we’ve been drinking which was evident in the glass. Nose was aromatic but there was a pronounced bitter pithy note on this that I did not enjoy.
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