I’ll be staying in Myeongdong 
If you’re staying in Myeongdong, the only thing that you must absolutely eat is the kalguksu (knife cut noodles) at Myeongdong Kyoja. There are several imitators so make sure you go to this one: https://maps.app.goo.gl/mA3VumkeeJMdQULg6
For naengmyun, normally I would recommend Bongpiyang for first timers and then work your way up to meatier broths but since you’re on the north side of the river, you might as well go straight to Woolaeoak. Although most Korean BBQ places will have naengmyun on their menu, it’ll invariably be gummy, sickly sweet stuff made from packets, so you need to find a place that has a reputation for making Pyongyang-style naengmyun from scratch to really understand what this dish is about.
It’s impossible to have bad fried chicken in Korea. Just order from any one of the big name franchises and you’ll be okay. It’s what all the locals do anyway.
Can’t speak much to the fine dining stuff as so much has evolved in that area since I last lived in Seoul. I do know Seoul has a claim to the liveliest sushi omakase scene outside of Japan, and people have recommended Sushi Mer near Myeongdong as a hidden gem that you can actually get a reservation.
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Sam and others, any advice on restaurants or food-oriented destinations on Jeju, or Busan area? Looking at being in each for one day. Thanks!
Unfortunately I’ve never lived full-time in Busan or Jeju and it’s been more than ten years since I visited either so I’m not as familiar. But assuming it’s your first time in Busan, definitely hit up Jagalchi market and get hwe (sashimi served Korean style) or grilled kkomjangeo (hagfish).
Anyway, if you don’t mind me asking, why only one day in each? Both are big places and I tend to think you would get more out of your time by picking one and staying there for two days, instead of trying to do just one day in each, especially since Jeju will involve either a ferry or a flight.
Thanks, Sam, it’s a cruise so the itinerary is set. (2 days in Hong Kong - Jeju - 2 days in Incheon/Seoul - Busan - Fukuoka - Nagasaki - Kagoshima - 2 days in Osaka/Kyoto - Tokyo)
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Hi Brad and Sarah
I’m living in Jeju and I’m often in Busan and Seoul. I concur with the list in the previous thread, except that I believe Mingles is the best fine dining of Seoul. Korean food was never fully supposed to be fine dining as in western culture and so a ‘fine meal’ can feel leveled with what you might see at other restaurants, especially the ones catering to Buddhist “temple food” — the ideology itself is not far of from the new nordic philosophy of seasonal ingredients and preserved versions of these.
Busan and Jeju are both known for very specific cuisines and cultures. Busan is by the sea, and the harbor is gigantic, so as previously recommended, the Jagalchi market is the best solution and the nearby Gamcheon village. The local eats are Dwaechi-Gukbap, a pork broth of spring onions and sliced pieces of steamed pork, and the other is grilled clams (naturally there are other dishes, but these are my favorites).
Jeju people are fishers and farmers. The island is known for its Haenyeo who catches snails and sea-urchins amongst other things. For a one or two days here with the cruise, I’d recommend either a hike up Hallasan, a visit to Seongsan Ilchul Bong, or head south to Seogwipo. If you need specific tips for restaurants just send me a DM and I’ll help. Got heaps.
For wine… The import tax makes wine here twice as expensive as in the states, so I really can’t recommend focusing on that stuff here. I myself bring back a dozen bottles every half year from my cellar in Denmark and then I cherish them when I’m back in Korea.
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Much appreciated, thanks.
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Are there any Korean exclusive soju’s I should bring back from Seoul? I think I’m going to bring my wine suitcase.
Andong is the town that is the best known for traditional soju, and there are two distillers in Andong who bear the title of “Korean Food Master”, which is a recognition bestowed by the Korean government for noteworthy artisans in traditional culinary fields. One is Park Jae-Seo, and the other is Jo Ok-Hwa, whose son has been running the distillery after her passing. They’re a little funkier than the modern craft sojus that are more widely available (Hwayo, Won, Toki, etc.). I don’t believe either of them is imported in the US, but I’m pretty certain at least one of the two is sold at the duty free stores in Incheon airport. Look for these white porcelain flasks. First one is Park Jae-Seo, the second is Jo Ok-Hwa.
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Amazing! Thank you, I will definitely try to get to the airport early at least to look for them.
I’m eager to hear all about your trip to Seoul. It’s a city filled with a rich blend of history, culture, and modernity.
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@B_Davies, if you discover the location of traditional soju at the duty-free stores in Incheon airport, please share your findings.
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We flight out in a week!
I want to add this Soju by Park Jae-So that SamKwak wrote about. You may notice the bottle as it’s very distinctive. Mingles has it added to their traditional alcohol pairing. Some of the Andong Sojus are, as Sam writes, very different in the way that they may be oxidized in claypots like Hwayo and therefore have a rounder taste than regular Soju, or have been subject to extended aging in oak barrels that gives a ‘whiskey’ feel. So the extremes are far apart. There are liquor shops here and there that stocks them.
If you’re adventurous, a simple nighttime trip to a convenience store can be interesting, as most regions of the country has their own distinctive Soju. I’m biased however, as a Jeju person that i think Hallasan is best;
This is interesting, I never stopped to see what brand of the soju I am drinking. I mostly see Jinro when I visit convenience stores in Seoul.
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Didn’t have time to checkout duty free in the airport and our flight is a bit too early for stores to be open.
Honestly, I have no idea what I’m looking for. Dinner at Jungshik had Dom. P P2 by the glass for $195 krw a glass… pretty reasonable.
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Ah,
I was thinking out 10 am flight was too early for stores to be open, but some stores open at 6-7am as well as one that is 24h
Will be there soon, just made a lunch reservation at A Flower Blossom on the Rice. Looks intriguing, and is in the right general area for where we’ll be at lunch time.
It’s a great place with more temple food inspired cooking. Last time i was there, they sold wine from Koreas only ‘natural’ winery, Lesdom, which is worth trying, but it’s lightyears away from the wines of Japan.
They have an extensive traditional liquour list, that however is worth getting lost in.
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