Trimbach CFEmile 1999/ Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle 1999

Somewhat coincidentally, opened both of these in the last few days to serve with seafoods. Have cellared both since release, and both in good condition.

The pinot gris, which is their top of the line pinot gris, made every year from bought grand cru fruit, was very alive and pleaing. Off dry, with some spicy aromas that reminded me of the dry gewurtraminers the region used to produce. The palate had good , definitely spicy fruit that is barely off-dry in effect due to some pretty zippy acidity for pinot gris, with some “metallic” elements as one taster opined. Decently long fruity finish, too.

The CFE , by contrast, is very very lean and bone dry, maybe too much so for its own good. Minerally, lemony nose; some fruit, though I wouldn’t call it “petrolly”, it was not opulent or honeyed. But the overall impression is created by the strong acidity shining through…on both the palate, and, especially, on the finish, which was shortish, and ended with puckering acidity dominating. i suspect that the Trimbachs, in trying to ensure dry wine in an era where most riesling were not dry, picked a little too early and missed some of ripeness of 1999 others (like Boxler and Barmes harnessed beautifully). Aeration and next day evaluation made no real difference. MY previous two experiences with the '99 were similar. Not totally unpleasant wine, especially with MAine halibut and beurre blanc, but…not all that impressive for a CFE, which I usually love.

Curious about others’ views on the '99 rieslings…and the CFE.

Thanks for these fine notes, Stuart—always interesting to see where 15 year-old Alsatians are at this stage of their lives. The Reserve Personelle sounds delicious.

Cheers,

Mike

Haven’t had the 99 Pinot Gris Reserve Personnelle. I drank a few bottles of the 1999 Frederic Emile back in 2011 and absolutely loved them – total acid-driven umami bombs, super austere but with tons of dry richness. Who needs fruit?

All I’ve gotten out of the 1999 CFE is dry boredom. I don’t know if I’m missing something here, but there’s nothing of interest in it, and it tastes extremely mature. I still have 1, probably will drink it this summer, to be done with it more than anything.

I actually really liked the 1999 CFE being very much my style as you described above. Not at all light but with razor sharpness. I remember it improving over a few days so perhaps a little more time will help.
Cheers Mike

Mike…I’ve been paying attention to this wine…and letting it aerate/swirl, etc.since opening it…It hasn’t improved (sadly, as I have 7-8 more bottles). The aromatics are nice, but the sharp acidity dominates the finish…and obliterates the fruit at the end. Too early picking? Overcropping? I have no idea…but this doesn’t make me happy. I hope the CSH is better…as it was the last year I bought any.