I came across this thread by chance via a Google search that had nothing to do with what the thread is actually about. But I appreciate Pat’s attempt to put something like this together as a buying guide when there is no opportunity to taste the wines prior to purchase. So I’d like to contribute my two cents.
Before I do that, I should say that for me personally, the critical parameter is the wood regime, more specifically the use of new, small barrels. I have, with time, become increasingly distracted by oaky scents in Nebbiolo wines and nowadays avoid buying bottles that are likely to show them. Fermentation/maceration surely has a decisive impact on the character of the wine as well. But in this regard, I have found that I do not automatically want to rule out producers that do not qualify as perfectly traditional, particularly since there is no simple relationship between the length of fermentation/maceration and the extent/nature of the extraction.
What follows is a list of the producers where I find reason to question or comment on the current classification, where I can help classify those that are not yet classified or where I can add names of wineries not yet on the list. I have grouped them according to where they are placed in the list of the original post at the time of this writing.
Currently Modern but Formerly Traditional
Renato Ratti: This winery uses short fermentation/maceration but ages in botti (large casks). So I am not bothered by oaky scents in this case and buy some from time to time. I would not classify them as modernist without qualification at this stage. They might, however, have been a bit more modernist in the recent past than they are now.
Terre del Barolo: To my knowledge, this producer (the biggest coop in the Barolo district) was never modernist but always traditionalist. The MGA Barolos (Castello Riserva, Cannubi, Monvigliero, Ravera, Roche di Castiglione Riserva) are often quite attractive (to my gusto) and very inexpensive at the cantina (20-25 euro). When I visited this summer I also found a non-MGA Riserva 2010 for euro 17.50 that I found good enough to buy a six-pack. Evolved, but in a nice way, and ready to drink already at this early stage. The MGA wines are as a rule more normal with regard to evolution but have, for the past decade or so, been released rather late, which means that you don’t have to wait so long in order to fully enjoy them. For example, the vintages on offer for Monvigliero when I visited this summer were 2006 and 2007.
Modernist
Ca’ del Baio: I certainly wouldn’t put this producer in the modernist camp. With the exception of the Vallegrande, fermentation/maceration lasts for one to two months. And none of the three Barbarescos that I have tried display any obvious oaky notes although the wood regime varies: botti only for the Vallegrande, a mix of botti and tonneaux for the Asili, and tonneaux of third or fourth passage for the Pora. The Marcorino sees a mix of barrels, like the Asili, and the Asili Riserva is aged in tonneaux of second and third passage. But I can’t remember having tried those two so can’t really say what they are like. This is a favorite producer of mine. The quality is high and consistent and the prices moderate.
Cascina Cucco (now named Tenuta Cucco according to the home page): I wouldn’t classify this producer as modernist without qualification. Both fermentation/maceration and wood regime varies depending on which of their three Barolos we are talking about: non-MGA, Cerrati, and Cerrati “Vigna Cucco”. The wines aged wholly or partly in smaller barrels are on the border-line of my oakiness threshold. But there is no question that they tend to be very good wines in their style and are sold at quite favorable prices. Last I visited (some ten years ago), the most expensive Barolo was 22 euro IIRC.
Montaribaldi: It’s OK to classify this producer as modernist but it is worth mentioning that the least expensive of their B&B-wines (Palazzina) is aged partly in botti and that I didn’t find the only vintage I have experience with (2006) noticeably oaky. A very enjoyable wine for a very modest price (16 euro at the Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco IIRC).
Pietro Rinaldi: Another case that is hard to classify. Fermentation/maceration is short but the wood regime is not clearly modernist. The Barolo Monvigliero is aged in large barrels and the Barbaresco San Cristoforo in tonneaux (about twice the size of a barrique) of which 70 percent new. I didn’t find the latter particularly oaky when I tried the 2013 this summer. I found that particular bottle (the only one I have tried from there) OK but was not sufficiently enthusiastic about it to buy more. Still, this might be a winery worth keeping an eye on.
Josetta Saffirio: It is probably OK to classify this producer as modernist since fermentation/maceration is short and the wine aged in smaller barrels (don’t know the exact size). However, I can’t say that I find the only wine I can remember having tried from here (non-MGA Barolo 2010) particularly oaky. Rather, I found it enjoyable enough to buy a three-pack.
Mauro Sebaste: The fermentation/maceration is relatively short (a couple of weeks) but the Barolos are aged in botti only and show no trace of oakiness. So I would put Sebaste in the “traditionalist” or “lean traditionalist” camp. This is a producer whose Barolos I have found to be very consistent in terms of quality, very likeable, and available at moderate prices. In particular, I am fond of the Monvigliero, which, regrettably, is no longer made.
Luigi Voghera: The fermentation/maceration is relatively short (10-12 days) but the Barbarescos aged in botti only. I don’t have enough experience with this winery to say more than that.
Lean Modern
Ascheri: It is probably not incorrect to classify this producer as “lean modern”. However, it might be worth mentioning that I have never found the Barolos from Ascheri, which I have sampled rather extensively (especially the Pisapola and the Sorano), to be noticeably oaky. I might add that I think they are about the best Barolos you can easily and regularly (with an emphasis on both) source via Internet shops in Europe (particularly in Germany) at a price as low as 20 euro. I have bought and drunk quite a few Ascheri Barolos over the years but have recently felt slightly less enthusiastic about buying again, probably because I am a bit bored with them at the moment. But this might change.
Fracassi: Umberto Fracassi is a humble gentleman (a Marchese although he is unlikely to flaunt his title) with a wonderful sense of humor. To my knowledge, he is the only Barolo maker located in Cherasco as well as the only Barolo maker who makes Barolo from the very small part of Cherasco that is included in the Barolo district (MGA Mantoetto). At age 81, he still manages his winery and makes excellent Barolo (based on my tasting of his 2010 and 2012). To my knowledge, there is no trace of modernism here so this producer should be reclassfied as traditionalist.
Elio Grasso: This producer appears twice in the list (as “lean modern” and “lean traditional”) with the specific wines to which the classification applies mentioned in parentheses. Since there is a separate category for producers that are variable depending on the specific wine, it would make things more consistent to put Grasso there as well (still mentioning which wines are more traditional and which are more modern).
Giovanni Manzone: Fermentation/maceration is long (30-40 days) and the wine aged in a combination of botti and tonneaux (of unspecified age) save for the Gramolere Riserva which is aged in tonneaux only (possibly because the quantity is too limited for a larger vessel). I have never found any disturbing signs of oak in the wines I have tried from here and have positive experiences with the quality. A producer I am following with some interest although I have not yet had suitable opportunity to buy more than a test bottle or two.
Median
Franco Conterno: I would put this producer further towards the traditional end. While the fermentation/maceration is relatively short (a couple of weeks) the Barolos are aged in botti only and I have never been troubled by any distracting oak scents in the many bottles I have tried from this winery. The quality is mostly very good (although I have encountered a few bottles I did not care for) and the prices modest. By and large, this is a producer I have favorable and pretty exensive experience with.
Rocche dei Manzoni: This is a producer I would put in the modernist camp (unless they have scaled back their use of new and small barrels in recent years). The fermentation/maceration is pretty short for the most part and the wines clearly marked by oaky scents. I initially liked what I tried from here (Vigna Cappella di Santo Stefano 1996, Rocche Riserva 2001) and bought some. But the fact that my palate now finds oaky scents increasingly distracting along with the fact that the oak didn’t get less prominent with age in the wines I bought means that I wouldn’t try again unless someone told me that the oak regime has been revised.
Lean Traditional
Fratelli Alessandria: Fermentation/maceration is pretty short but the Barolos (not just the Monvigliero) are aged in botti only and there are no distracting oak tones in the wines. The classification as such is probably OK but the parenthetic mention of Monvigliero as the only “lean traditional” wine is incorrect. I have bought and drunk quite a few wines from here over the years (most recently the Gramolere 2008) and have found the quality to be very good and consistent and the prices reasonable.
Pecchenino: When this producer first started to make Barolo about a decade ago (the Pecchenino brothes are better known for their outstanding Dolcetto), I think they were more modernist than they are know. At the current stage, based on their home page, they would qualify as traditionalist period. I have tried their Barolo Le Coste a couple of times in the past (vintage 2004 and 2006 I think) when the wine-making was (I think) somewhat different than it is now. And while I found it pretty good, I was not convinced that it merited the relatively high price. Perhaps it is time to give it another try now. As to Dolcetto, this is one of my favorite producers: Excellent and consistent wines at modest prices in view of the quality.
Reverdito: I’d say that this is a producer where the classification depends on which wine we are talking about. The Bricco Cogni is/was aged completely in barrique. I initially liked it but by now find it far too oaky. Other wines may be aged completely in botti (their home page is being revised so I can’t check) and I recently enjoyed their Codane (2004 IIRC).
Ugo Lequio: Here I just note that this producer appears twice (as “lean traditional” and “traditional”).
Traditional
Comm. G.B. Burlotto: This is another tricky producer to classify. On the one hand, as John Morris has already pointed out, the Monvigliero is not just a traditionalist but an “ultraditionalist” wine, i.e., it is produced using techniques that are no longer commonly practised among “traditionalist” producers (the grapes crushed by human feet; two months maceration with submerged cap) and which certainly gives this Barolo a character entirely of its own. It was the first really good Barolo I tried (back in 2003, vintage 1997) and it has remained a favorite ever since. On the other hand, the Cannubi is aged (partly or wholly; the website is being revised so I can’t check) in tonneaux, of which I am sure at least some are new. I still like the Cannubi (this is a producer where it is difficult to come up with anything negative to say about any of the wines) but there is no question that it has seen some new and small barrels and stylistically I prefer the Monvigliero as well as the traditional (as opposed to ultratraditional) non-MGA wines (Acclivi and “normale”).
Fontanafredda: Should be moved to the category “variable by individual wine”.
Cantina del Pino: This is a producer I would put in the modernist or “lean modern” camp unless practices have changed recently. The wines I have tried (non-MGA 2000 and Ovello 2001 and 2004) were clearly marked by oaky scents. I used to like these wines a lot and bought quite a few but as my palate has changed, I am less likely to seek them out again. Still, there is no question that these are well-made wines within their style.
Information Not Available
La Ca’ Növa: This is a traditional producer. I have had quite a few bottles from here (all either Montefico Bric Mentina or Montestefano) and when they are on they are a steal (15 euro, formerly slightly less, at the Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco). However, the quality is in my experience not entirely consistent. I loved the 2001, 2006 and 2008. But the bottles from 2004 that I tried were disappointing (reductive notes) as were those from 2013 that I tried this summer (without much of a body, limited aromatics, somewhat bitter tannins).
Prinsi: To my knowledge, this is a traditional producer though the home page is being revised so I can’t check the details. The Barbarescos from here that I have tried (Gallina and Gaia Principe) have mostly been quite charming though I didn’t care for their Fausone Riserva (2000 or 2001). The 2004s, where I bought a six-pack of each cru, have also matured very well. The fact that their Barbarescos are moderately priced doesn’t make things worse. I have found other good wines here as well: The Langhe Nebbiolo Sandrina 2004 was excellent and I wouldn’t have protested if it had been labeled a Barbaresco. The Barbera and the Sauvignon Blanc are good as well.
B&B-Producers That Are Not Yet on the List
Cozzo Mario: Relatively short fermentation/maceration (two weeks), aged in botti only. This is one of my favorite producers although I do not visit them primarily on account of their Barolo. They are located in Dogliani and most of the production is based on grapes other than Nebbiolo: Excellent Dolcetto, Barbera, Syrah, and Arneis. The quality is consistently high and the prices very modest.
Gillardi: Has only recently started to make Barolo. The first vintage might be 2011. Not sure about how it is vinified but it would surprise me if it would fall in the modernist or “lean modern” camp. This is another favorite producer, although I visit them primarily on account of their Dolcetto (Cursalet and Maestra, very good and not expensive) and their Syrah (Harys, which is 30 euro at the winery but very good). Haven’t yet had an opportunity to try their Barolo.
Cantina del Nebbiolo: Traditional
Diego Morra: Methods unknown
Carlo Viglione (di Giulio Viglione): Relatively short fermentation/maceration (about two weeks), aged in botti only