Started my love of Loire chenin with the late 90s and early 00 vintages. I haven’t drunk as much in recent years, but of course I know the broad trends, and I do keep up a bit. Still, these two bottles really hammered home how much the world has evolved.
2023 Huet Vouvray Le Mont Sec and 2023 Chidaine Montlouis-sur-Loire Clos du Breuil. Both used to be the freshest crispest wines in their respect stables. But in 2023, both are ripe rich golden wines, with waxy layers that evoke chenin, although for my frame of reference it might lean more towards the power of Anjou than the delicate frame I expect from Touraine.
With air and enough introspection, one can find the mineral precision of Le Mont and the firm modesty of Clos du Breuil. But this is a different world, I dare to say even more ripe and polished than 2003. I probably won’t bet on these wines aging closer to my palate. But they are undoubtedly delicious, just not what I remember…
Decided to move west and thrust my palate into the 2022 Domaine aux Moines Savennières Roche aux Moines, after having enjoyed some of the recent vintages. But this too smacked me with sweet thick ripe fruit. Not at all what I want!
I can see how the thick rich textures are ‘impressive’, and the finely-knit layers do speak to good winemaking, which cannot ignore the climate. It became more enjoyable on the second day, with more clarity and crunch. But overall, too heavy and alcoholic for me to really get excited.
I guess I have to wait for the special cool vintages and pounce on those! (Complete turnaround from previous decades…)
The same can be said about the 2022, in the glass right now…
Vouvray (or Chenin in general) and I, we don’t go back so far, so I don’t know what I am missing. I would be hard pressed to name more than 2 producers making Chenin in a less baroque style you are referring to. There must be more?
Faith restored, but only just. The 2021 Chidaine Les Choisilles is a perfect blend of ripe polished modern juicy gulpability with the tactile tension and mineral detail that I remember from yesteryear. I bought a few but should have bought more! (Will see what future vintages bring…)
Well there’s certainly a track record for improving over time and wiser palates than mine have suggested the Huet 23 Secs will reveal more over time. (And don’t forget the Demi Secs, etc). I’m just very picky and reporting on what I experienced now!
Ive never had a young LM sec that Id describe as ripe/rich (granted my experience is limited to a few vintages. That doesnt give me the highest hopes for longevity, but may the acid lifts it enough? Thoughts?
Sure. It’s all a guessing game. And palate preferences vary. I did buy a few more of the 23s, just out of curiosity, but will drink them over next several months and see how it goes.
How recent of a vintage have you had? I feel like the 2020s vintages of Le Mont Sec have been getting pretty rich and ripe, a noticeable step in that direction. But of course that’s all pretty subjective.
I had one bottle of the 2020 Le Mont Sec, but I dont trust my note on it. I stopped buying recent vintages in favor of ones I think are ready to drink as my wine budget has decreased
