I guess. Don’t we have 20 other threads on this (IPOB, Bonne, Parker blows, Rajat Parr, the “new California” and other). There will never be a new world Chablis. So just buy Chablis because it is cheap and be happy that it is affordable.
I don’t even get how Muscadet and Sancerre taste like Chablis other than they are dry white wines. But whatever. I’m all for the style, but think it is a bit rich that all these “almost” California alternatives are twice as expensive as the real thing.
PS - I read your review on the 95 Lytton today and think that you were spot-on.
I don’t agree. Every suggestion I made for alt-Chablis is another variety grown on the Kimmeridgean ridge (melon de bourgogne and sauvignon blanc, specifically). I think the OP is going in exactly the wrong direction looking for Chardonnay from different terroirs if what he wants is a Chablis alternate. Even the Chardonnays from the Cote de Beaune have less in common with Chablis than do Muscadet and Sancerre IMO.
Did he not ask for an alternative to Chablis? Did he not specify that he wants “minerality, acid, sharpness” and doesn’t want “flabby, buttery, sweet”?
The notion that the above qualities are varietally specific is false. Chardonnay is one of the most malleable grapes creating vastly different wines depending upon where it’s grown.
But if he wants Chardonnay, then I’d recommend the Kalin Cuvee LD mentioned above, and Michel Gahier’s Arbois Les Crêts. Nothing at all like Chablis - nor possessing the qualities he’s specifically requesting - but damn good Chardonnays.
Look, people can drink whatever they want. But to criticize the responses in this thread is unfair, esp. given that the OP has specifically said that he is not sure how to describe what he is looking for. For example:
“I love a good Chablis but over recent years its become silly expensive”
“I remember drinking a 1983 Rene Dauvissuet Grand Clos Les Clos Chablis that blew me away, now I find most Chablis to be too thin.”
“Who makes a really sharp minerally acidic but full bodied chard ?”
“what im after is the minerality, acid and sharpness that i associate with chablis”
“The 90s style of buttery oaky chards is just a nightmare to my tastebuds, ive had Peter Michael, Kistler etc that is highly rated but just not my thing”
“i just dont have the experience to describe exactly what im looking for, all i remember is that 80’s Chablis was perfect and i cant find anything to replicate what i recall.”
I am not criticizing the OP here, just agreeing with him that he is having a hard time describing exactly what he wants. Given that, I would expect a large variety of responses, which is what we have seen. I am not sure he wants ONLY Chardonnay. What makes you so sure you know what he wants and that others do not.
There have been lots of negotiations between the US and the EU on names like this but no deals. It doesn’t help the Europeans’ cause that “Chablis” and “Hearty Burgundy” are iconic brands for Gallo, far and away the biggest wine producer in the US (see Nate’s post #17). Actually, I think there was a deal on Champagne but “California Champagne” is allowed. (Many of the biggest California sparkling producers are subsidiaries of Champagne houses, so they defer to the mother country and use “Sparking Wine” on their labels.)
The same issue comes up with cheeses and other food products with appellation names, as well (e.g., “cheddar,” “feta” etc.).
So far as I know, the EU has never tried to reclaim Hamburger or Frankfurter. That would mean war and the breakdown of NATO.
I know others have mentioned liquid farm but here is a tasting note from a bottle we opened last night.
2012 Liquid Farm Chardonnay White Hill- USA, California, Central Coast, Sta. Rita Hills (4/27/2014)
This was our first Liquid Farm and I’ve been looking forward to trying one. I poured a couple glasses and handed one to Ann, blind. I have to say I smiled when she took a whiff and said, “smells minerally, salty - like Chablis.” Just what I had heard and why I bought it. The wine is taut, with lemon/lime, tart green apple, good acidity, saline and mineral. There is a hint of light toffee or butterscotch on the finish but it is light and not obtrusive. I wouldn’t say this is lean as there is a little weight, yet it is crisp and thirst quenching. Reminds me a little of the Yuen bottling from Wind Gap. I’m so glad there seems to be some momentum with style of Chardonnay coming out of CA. Really good.
The last couple of nights I have uncracked a vineyard/producer new to me – the 2016 Varner ‘El Camino Vyd’ Chardonnay [Santa Barbara Cty]. It’s quite good, even if not in my usual wheelhouse of plumper California blanc. It’s 14.2% which is higher than what it ‘feels’ like on the palate where its lighter, crisper, and apple driven. I do get some hints of stone, citrus on the nose but its not an overly perfumed blanc at this stage. This drinks nicely over a number of days, even improving, so I would expect this to continue to keep well. It was right out of the fridge when I took the picture, so there is some condensation on the glass, which makes the color a little harder to discern. For those who like an acidic lift to their wine, consider this producers whites. For my palate its on the cusp between an A and B in my grading chart, but most AFWE / WB would give it the higher notch.
Interestingly I just listened to some podcasts on the history of the IPOB movement, as well as another Jon Bonne one, and the Varner fits in well
