Textbook. Outstanding. Distinctive.
Just released, just received, highly allocated. I only got my grubby paws on a few, including the higher-end cuvees, Le Bourg and Les Poyeux. The domaine bottling is 100% Cab Franc from the Saumur Champigny region of Loire, clay-rich soils.
Stuffing away the Le Bourg and Les Poyeux for long-term storage, one had to be sacrificed for the cause. I so love the '09 vintage in Chinon and Saumur. An exceptional vintage that stirred me to buy deeply (2005 and 2010 as well). The Baudry line-up, across the board, is stunning. Joguet produced some winners as well. Domaine Guion knocked it out of the park with an old-school, rustic wine of exceptional value. From the Baudry elegance, to the slightly modern Joguet, to the rusticity of Guion, lots to choose from in this vintage.
Clos Rougeard is another level.
Textbook Loire Cab Franc nose: Cigarette ash, brambly red fruits, crisp green pepper. The laser intensity of crunchy red fruits on the palate is remarkable. Amazing concentration and focus. Still primary, but after an hour open, showing some meat broth, salinity, tea leaves, dry forrest. Herbal, savoury. Moderate, chalky tannins, firm acids, medium finish. But the memory is indelible. This is classic stuff. The closest any Chinon of recent note that resembles this Rougeard, in my experience, is the Franc de Pied by Joguet, especially the 2005. (94 pts.)
As tempting as it is, I’m not touching another for a minimum of 5 years, likely 10 for the Le Bourg and Les Poyeux. These are vins de garde deserving of that respect, especially indeed at their current price-points. Ironic that Rougeard is considered Burgundian by some as the prices are certainly there!