- 2018 Domaine du Collier Saumur Blanc - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur (19/11/2024)
The good - an absolutely electric wine; broad ripe citrus fruit with zingy acidity. The bad - burnt tire on the nose and caramel popcorn on the finish that never quite dissipated. Overall - rather disjointed, maybe awkward phase? Interestingly the staff who had a small glass were very effusive about this (compared to an Haut Brion at the next table haha). (90 pts.)
GOOD WINES WITH CLOSE FRIENDS - (21/11/2024)
Small group dinner where I wanted to share my first Vatan with close friends. Was very good but didn’t transcend the grape, the unanimous favourites were the Gaspard and the Aubert.
- 2021 Champagne Gaspard Brochet Champagne Brut Nature Lion Tome V - France, Champagne
100% Pinot Noir, disgorged Jan 2024, 3g/l dosage (so not Brut Nature, think there is a CT error). Very pretty salmon pink in colour. Guava notes on the nose on opening; creamy, opulent red fruit on the palate. Loved the acidity and precision on this, with air and at a warmer temperature it became more conventional while retaining its balance and poise. Stunning showing and much better than any of the wines at the Gaspard tasting last month. Brilliant wine. (95 pts.) - 2014 Aubert Chardonnay Sonoma Coast - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Coast
I was certain that this was an old-school Meursault from the late ‘90s. Reductive flinty notes on the nose, but palate had broad citrus fruit in the old-school Burgundian fashion. Got fresher and developed complexity in the glass, this was unanimously well-received. Was surprised that it was only 10 years old but guess it’s better to drink them on the younger side, the ‘06 I had previously had lost most of its structure. (94 pts.) - 2008 Edmond Vatan Sancerre Clos la Néore - France, Loire Valley, Upper Loire, Sancerre
My contribution. Most correctly identified this as a Sauvignon Blanc because of the grassy notes and tropical gooseberry fruit. Superb intensity and precision, but didn’t quite transcend the grape. I think F. Cotât for 1/10th of the price is a much better proposition. (94 pts.) - 2020 Caroline Morey Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chaumées - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
Similar to previous impressions. Very pleasurable with ripe citrus fruit, but broader with more oak influence than the last bottle that I had a few months ago. (93 pts.) - 2016 Jean Foillard Morgon Cuvée 3.14 - France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
Similar to my previous impression from three years ago albeit with more secondary development e.g., forest floor, slightly mushroom notes. Clearly Bojo with the sweet red-fruited nose, sharp acidity and less structured on the palate compared to ‘13/14. An amped up Bojo in terms of depth and complexity. (93 pts.) - 2016 Francois Confuron-Gindre Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaumonts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru
Rather oaky at first but loosened up with air. Quite muscular in style with a Gevrey-like rusticity and cola note. First time trying this producer and nonplussed. (89 pts.) - 2011 Château La Violette - France, Bordeaux, Libournais, Pomerol
Thought new-world; guessed '15/16 right-bank when it was revealed to be a Bordeaux. Quite ripe for a weaker year with polished purple fruit and mocha notes. Not my preferred style of Bordeaux (especially when this young) but I did finish a couple of glasses. (90 pts.)
Interesting Italian theme; as Sven would say ‘first half good, second half not so good’. The reds that I brought reflected my stylistic preference - traditional Nebbiolos with grippy tannins without being overripe or oaky. The more modern-leaning Conterno and Chiara Boschis brought by others were also very good, but the Prunotto and Donnafugata were horrific examples of internationalised, spoofy Italians that I suspect will fall apart with age. Was interesting to tally the votes as half the table were non-wine geeks, Conterno was obviously the unanimous favourite, but the Gabrio Bini, Principiano, Oddero, Sottimano and Accomasso gathered votes as best of the rest (clearly I wasn’t the only one who disliked the international styled wines).
- 2020 Azienda Agricola Serragghia (Gabrio Bini) Zibibbo Bianco - Italy, Sicily, Terre Siciliane
My contribution. Similar to previous impressions. Watermelon and lychee on the nose, palate tasted like fruit juice rather than wine. I prefer their whites to the reds, but the idiosyncratic nature isn’t for everyone (this was much more well-received today compared to the last time I brought this to a crowd with more traditional palates). Fantastic with Teochew cold crab and braised meats. (93 pts.) - 2020 Roagna Montemarzino Derthona - Italy, Piedmont, Vino da Tavola
Wasn’t quite sure what was this - felt woolly and a cross between Chardonnay and Chenin Blanc, but without the acidity. Managed to nail it when this was revealed to be an indigenous grape because I had the same difficulties guessing this wine the last time. Much better with air and as it warmed up, more clarity and exuberance from the ripe, slightly tropical pear fruit. Truly a grand cru Timarosso. (92 pts.) - 2013 Ferdinando Principiano Barolo Boscareto - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Brought for a friend. As usual with this producer, very pretty red cherry fruit with almost no tannins for a Nebbiolo. Elegant and weightless, was a universal favourite for most. (92 pts.) - 2011 Luigi Oddero Barolo Vigna Rionda - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Brought for a friend. More tannic and unready compared to the Principiano alongside, but still on the traditional, crunchy red-fruited end of the spectrum. Some commented on the obtrusive oak on the nose but I thought it was more of the tannins being unresolved. The better plot gave this more complexity than the Principiano so some including myself preferred this. (92 pts.) - 2017 Giacomo Conterno Barolo Francia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Didn’t guess this since I accidentally saw the label. My first time having such a young Conterno, initially the unintegrated oak on the nose gave it a disjointed feel but all was forgiven once I tasted it. Incredibly silky tannins but with a structure and clarity that the Principiano didn’t have. Prefer the modern sweet red-fruited style to the older, more masculine wines from pre-2010 based on this showing. So ethereal and classy, a very generous pull from a friend. (94 pts.) - 2012 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Mosconi - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
This suffered from being served alongside the Conterno but I liked this despite its more modernist nature. More tannic and darker-fruited in the Aldo Conterno mould without being too drying, so on reveal the producer made sense. My first time trying and was impressed with the winemaking even though it’s usually not my preferred style of Nebbiolo. (92 pts.) - 2012 Sottimano Barbaresco Cottá - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
Brought for a friend. Not as red-fruited and pure as post-'14 vintages but much better than the tannic monsters from the '00s. Some high-toned VA on the nose but grippy tannins on the palate; the balance between dark liquorice fruit and earthy undertones made this another crowd favourite. Fantastic value from a fire sale. (92 pts.) - 2019 Prunotto Barolo Bussia - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
Accidentally saw the maker and was fearing the worst. Red-fruited which was its only saving grace. Too much vanilla on the nose with artificially smooth texture that made it anonymous like a Chapoutier northern Rhone. Like Syrah, I hate Nebbiolos that are made in such an international style - poured this out to a friend beside me after a sip but she hated it too (though there were some fans at the table so YMMV). (80 pts.) - 2015 Lorenzo Accomasso Barbera d’Alba Pochi Filagn - Italy, Piedmont, Alba, Barbera d’Alba
Brought for a friend. Better showing than my last bottle, quite dark in colour with ripe fruit but wasn’t as glossy and extracted as the last time around. Balsamic and mint notes with a little rusticity, plenty of character that won this some fans at the table. (91 pts.) - 2019 Donnafugata Mille e una notte - Italy, Sicily, Sicilia
Thought this was a young Supertuscan; glossy black fruit and tannic as hell, chocolate milkshake vibes. Just no. (75 pts.) - 2008 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici Riserva Antonio - Italy, Campania, Taurasi DOCG
Thought this was Bordeaux-like so guessed Supertuscan, I thought this was similar to the horrific Donnafugata alongside but when I revisited it I liked this a lot more; much more traditional and restrained despite being a structured beast. Dark cassis fruit that was rustic with drying tannins, a goliath of a wine that was stylistically not up my alley but at least I respected the quality of winemaking here. (91 pts.) - 2019 Fattoria di Fèlsina Berardenga Fontalloro - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
Another bruiser of a wine with tannic black fruit (at least this wasn’t a modernist mess). Better to leave aside for a good few years. (90 pts.)
