Had a very good week of drinking including an evening of Krug that I’ve already posted notes. Here’s some of the better wines from the balance of the week.
’96 Krug Clos du Mesnil - I ordered this bottle as a replacement for a far too advanced '82 Billecart-Salmon NF. This may very well be the champagne of the vintage - which is really saying something with so many great champagnes made that year. It’s starting to become more expressive showing its Blanc de Blancs characteristics of sweet lemons, vanilla custard and femininity while still being a thoroughbred. Quite enjoyable by itself, but really shines when paired with a variety of food courses including sashimi, shellfish and pheasant. Killer minus
’76 Dom Perignon - The last vintage made by Rene Philipponnat which ended a run of 20+ years of incredible wines produced under that label. This bottle pancaked a mini horizontal including Krug, Salon, Cristal (corked), and Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Mag (which showed very well). At a perfect level of maturity, still with strong effervescence and tons of yellow fruit, but waves of complexity as well. Coffee, hazelnuts, creme brulee, truffles, cocoa plus other aromas could all de discerned. Full mid-palate with great acidity to match its long finish. Staggering Plus
’47 Pol Roger Wedding Cuvee - Disgorged in 1981 for the royal wedding. Deep gold color, but shows no brown yet. Little or no effervescence on site, but it can be more easily sensed on the palate. Very rich aromas and tastes on the palate. Mushrooms in the forefront, but the fruit while less intense than it certainly was, is still there. The surprising acidity on the finish makes this champagne the complete mature package. Staggering minus.
’72 Dujac Clos de la Roche Nothing better for me than the nose of a great red burgundy. Layers of dense red fruit, with a tocuh of confectioner’s sugar and hints of leather and autumnal scents. More fruit on the palate that coats the tongue and doesn’t dissipate for what seems like forever. Still vibrant and youthful with what seems like many decades of life left to it. Staggering Plus
’72 La Tache While not as good as the previous wine, certainly no slouch. Most '72 DRC’s are long in the tooth, but this was a bottle from a well stored, full case of La Tache. While there are some typical La Tache notes of Asian spices and soy, they don’t scream to you; you have to look for them. While the Dujac seems to still be ascending, this wine has already passed its apex. Staggering minus.
’72 La Mouline This is my favorite vintage of La Mouline from the “unknown and/or unheralded” years of Guigal. Slabs of smoky bacon on the nose, deep dark fruit, black olives and worn leather as well. Very thick mouthfeel but is balanced by a perfect amount of acidity that keeps it from being fat. Staggering
1971 Giacosa Barolo Riserva Rocche This wine should be used as the textbook example of a great Barolo. While it’s profile is stereotypical aged Barolo, it’s so stereotypical that it becomes unique. Tar and roses, tar and roses and tar and roses. Firm on the palate, but just when you think the tannins will take a stronghold, they melt away. Staggering plus.
And just so everyone doesn’t think I dole out “staggering” like some others give out 100pt’ers, one of the more disappointing flights of the week was a threesome of older Riojas
’44 CVNE Vina Real Riserva Especiale - while the palate has dense red fruit and a satiny texture, the nose is so overwhelmed by VA that it’s painful to drink. Fair plus
’38 Marques de Riscal Riserva - Corked
’35 Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Riserva Especial - best of the flight, which isn’t saying much. Probably best 20 years ago. Good nose, lacking a bit of fruit with a somewhat hollow mid-palate. Good minus.