TNs: Weekly Highlights

Had a very good week of drinking including an evening of Krug that I’ve already posted notes. Here’s some of the better wines from the balance of the week.

’96 Krug Clos du Mesnil - I ordered this bottle as a replacement for a far too advanced '82 Billecart-Salmon NF. This may very well be the champagne of the vintage - which is really saying something with so many great champagnes made that year. It’s starting to become more expressive showing its Blanc de Blancs characteristics of sweet lemons, vanilla custard and femininity while still being a thoroughbred. Quite enjoyable by itself, but really shines when paired with a variety of food courses including sashimi, shellfish and pheasant. Killer minus

’76 Dom Perignon - The last vintage made by Rene Philipponnat which ended a run of 20+ years of incredible wines produced under that label. This bottle pancaked a mini horizontal including Krug, Salon, Cristal (corked), and Perrier-Jouet Belle Epoque Mag (which showed very well). At a perfect level of maturity, still with strong effervescence and tons of yellow fruit, but waves of complexity as well. Coffee, hazelnuts, creme brulee, truffles, cocoa plus other aromas could all de discerned. Full mid-palate with great acidity to match its long finish. Staggering Plus

’47 Pol Roger Wedding Cuvee - Disgorged in 1981 for the royal wedding. Deep gold color, but shows no brown yet. Little or no effervescence on site, but it can be more easily sensed on the palate. Very rich aromas and tastes on the palate. Mushrooms in the forefront, but the fruit while less intense than it certainly was, is still there. The surprising acidity on the finish makes this champagne the complete mature package. Staggering minus.

’72 Dujac Clos de la Roche Nothing better for me than the nose of a great red burgundy. Layers of dense red fruit, with a tocuh of confectioner’s sugar and hints of leather and autumnal scents. More fruit on the palate that coats the tongue and doesn’t dissipate for what seems like forever. Still vibrant and youthful with what seems like many decades of life left to it. Staggering Plus

’72 La Tache While not as good as the previous wine, certainly no slouch. Most '72 DRC’s are long in the tooth, but this was a bottle from a well stored, full case of La Tache. While there are some typical La Tache notes of Asian spices and soy, they don’t scream to you; you have to look for them. While the Dujac seems to still be ascending, this wine has already passed its apex. Staggering minus.

’72 La Mouline This is my favorite vintage of La Mouline from the “unknown and/or unheralded” years of Guigal. Slabs of smoky bacon on the nose, deep dark fruit, black olives and worn leather as well. Very thick mouthfeel but is balanced by a perfect amount of acidity that keeps it from being fat. Staggering

1971 Giacosa Barolo Riserva Rocche This wine should be used as the textbook example of a great Barolo. While it’s profile is stereotypical aged Barolo, it’s so stereotypical that it becomes unique. Tar and roses, tar and roses and tar and roses. Firm on the palate, but just when you think the tannins will take a stronghold, they melt away. Staggering plus.

And just so everyone doesn’t think I dole out “staggering” like some others give out 100pt’ers, one of the more disappointing flights of the week was a threesome of older Riojas
’44 CVNE Vina Real Riserva Especiale - while the palate has dense red fruit and a satiny texture, the nose is so overwhelmed by VA that it’s painful to drink. Fair plus
’38 Marques de Riscal Riserva - Corked
’35 Bodegas Palacio Glorioso Riserva Especial - best of the flight, which isn’t saying much. Probably best 20 years ago. Good nose, lacking a bit of fruit with a somewhat hollow mid-palate. Good minus.

While it is undoubtedly an epic lineup, the '72 La Mouline and the '71 Giacosa Riserva sounded absolutely incredible, and I’m going to find one of those Giacosas…THAT’S gonna be my birthyear wine, probably for my 40th…

That’s it? :smiley:

Nice to hear bout the 96 Krug Clos du Mesnil. Each time I have had it since release it has been better than the last. I’m very impressed at how much it has improved since release and at how tasty/approachable it is right now (relatively speaking). I may have underestimated this and can’t wait to see how the two 96 Krugs compare over time. For today, the Clos du Mesnil is more enjoyable, but the price tag doesn’t make it a normal drinker for me.

Original release of the 76 Dom?

Brad,

Original release DP

Todd,

That Barolo won’t be an easy find, so if you want to drink it in 2011, I’d strat looking for it sooner rather than later.

I like your rating system! That’s a staggering plus line-up of my birth year (72) wines too, and it gives me hope that I’ll find something great in time for my 40th.

Serious question: which ranks higher, killer or staggering?

In descending order

Killer
Staggering
Excellent
Very Good
Good
Fair
Poor

what no killer+?
great notes on nice wines.

All KA ratings can be adjusted up or down with a plus or minus.

Ray,

You need to copyright the rating system as it makes much more sense than most.

I’ve been pouring over all my notes on older vintages lately (a small book compared to your library) and was reminded at how much I really enjoyed 76 as an overall vintage. I think it ranks up there with the best of them and the best 70s Dom was from 76 IMO (as was the best Krug and Salon). Just plain wonderful wines.

Great stuff Ray! Never had the '71 Rocche Riserva…pretty rare bird there.

Ray, I’m curious re: your comment that most of the '72 DRC’s are “long in the tooth”. I’ve got a bottle left of the '72 De Vogue Musigny – have you tried that recently, and if so, how is it holding up?

Never had the '71 Rocche – if it’s anything like his '78 Rionda, I can see the killer rating [cheers.gif]

I loved reading these, Ray. What’s great is that both your enthusiasm and knowledge are key to the notes–and they are fantastic. I wish you would publish a book on champagne; we’ve discussed this before but I think its just waiting to be done and you’re the guy.

And finally; yes. There’s nothing better than a great burgundy showing itself first on the nose. Fantastic.

Great notes as usual Ray. Good to see you here. The '96 Mesnil is something I’d love to taste someday & of course the '72 Dujac…

Bob,

Sorry to be wishy-washy, but I’ve only had the '72 Vogue Musigny a couple of times in the recent past, and once it was showing very well, the other time it was tired. Assuming the bottle has been stored properly, I would be optimistic.

Wilfred,

Thanks for the kind words [cheers.gif]

Here is a rare wine I can actually chime in on. I had the ‘72 Vogue Musigny at a celebration at Daniel for Daniel Johnnes’ 50th birthday in 2005. It seemed a bit thin but had startling aromas. Juicy wine with great acidity but the palate failed to impress.

So it sounds like I’m best served drinking up as soon as the opportunity presents itself & keeping my fingers crossed. Previous bottles I’ve had from this lot drank very well, but this is my last one and I haven’t had one in over five years. Thanks for the input.