Unlike previous new-world themes, this line-up had more modern leaning producers which made it hard going (most bottles had about half left at the end of dinner). The Cullen stood out for being the most classic wine by far, whereas some of the other wines while not being the worst offenders, were difficult to drink because they were so artificially smoothened with mocha notes that I really detest in wines. The top 3 for the majority were the Cullen, John Riddoch and '04 Parker since most at the table were Burgundy drinkers.
- 2016 Lilbert-Fils Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Millésimé Cramant - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Disgorged between winter '21 and 2022, 3g/l dosage. Initially citrus fruit was a little thin but put on more weight with air, clean and precise BdB without being memorable. Rounder than I expected. (91 pts.) - 2020 Jean-Pierre Robinot (L’Opera des Vins) Chenin Blanc L’Iris - France, Loire Valley, Coteaux du Loir
Similar to my previous Robinot white, natty but with plenty of character. Some yoghurt and cidery notes, mainly ripe melon fruit. Atypical but enjoyable. (92 pts.) - 2022 Jean-Pierre Robinot (Les Vignes de l’Ange Vin) Lumière des Sens - France, Loire Valley, Jasnières
100% Pineau d’Aunis. Wild with plenty of brett and VA, tasted like cranberry juice. (89 pts.) - 1994 Lewis Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
From magnum. Everyone thought that this was an Australian Cab with eucalyptus and minty notes, fruit was tertiary but with some unresolved tannins. (89 pts.) - 2007 d’Arenberg Shiraz The Dead Arm - Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
Clearly a big, bold Oz Shiraz from the Parkerized era with huge oak and black, extracted fruit. Surprisingly not too offensive but couldn’t drink more than one glass. (90 pts.) - 2001 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra
Most of us thought this pair had Grenache or Shiraz in it because of the sweetness. This was clearly the older of the pair with more tertiary dark cherry fruit and some eucalyptus notes, good restraint. (91 pts.) - 2004 Parker Coonawarra Estate Terra Rossa First Growth - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra
More youthful than the '01 with vibrant blackberry and dark cherry fruit, extraction was over the top as was the norm in that era but didn’t seem flabby. One of the better wines on the night. (92 pts.) - 2001 Cullen Wines Diana Madeline Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot - Australia, Western Australia, South West Australia, Margaret River
By far the most restrained of the night, was surprised that I was the only one that called this as the obvious favourite. Very old-world in style, most including myself thought this was nailed on Mount Mary (and then we landed on Cullen). By far the most elegant and the highest acidity of the line-up, surprisingly not as green as my previous experiences with Cullen. (94 pts.) - 2005 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain - USA, California, Napa Valley, Diamond Mountain
Not as offensive as the '07 that I tasted last year but still a chocolate milkshake sort of wine that had been smoothened to oblivion. Hard pass. (84 pts.) - 1998 Penfolds Bin 389 - Australia, South Australia
My contribution. Most guessed '80s or even older because of the sweet, tertiary fruit that had balsamic and soy notes. Not sure if it was provenance (cork was fine) or this wine was just not meant to age, severely lacked definition. (87 pts.) - 1998 Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon John Riddoch - Australia, South Australia, Limestone Coast, Coonawarra
Much more youthful than my '98 Penfolds alongside. Most including myself managed to guess this as a Oz Cab with eucalyptus and pyrazine notes, but more polished than I expected with the cassis notes of a young Bordeaux. Can go on for another decade at least. (91 pts.) - 2000 Jasper Hill Shiraz Georgia’s Paddock - Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Heathcote
Unlike the '90 that I had last year which was restrained and elegant, this was fully Parkerized with high extraction and alcohol. Quite similar in style to the Dead Arm with chocolate notes. My palate was too tired to deal with this at this point. (89 pts.)
Other wines over the week
- 2022 Lourens Family Chenin Blanc skuinskap steen - South Africa, Olifants River, Citrusdal, Piekenierskloof (3/7/2025)
My contribution. Overly reductive and out of balance at first, but fruit became less tropical and more precise with air. Rich and viscous for a Chenin that was made like a Burgundy white with well-judged oak use and good acidity. Needs more time. (91 pts.) - NV Jérôme Prévost Champagne Grand Cru La Closerie - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru (3/7/2025)
'23 base. Guessed that this was a Pinot Noir-dominant champagne because it was red-fruit dominant. Slightly natty with curry leaf notes, high energy but a little too dense and tropical for my liking. (90 pts.) - 2013 Domaine A.-F. Gros Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vosne-Romanée (3/7/2025)
A little sweet and candied at first that I wondered if it could be a new-world. When confirmed to be a Burgundy thought this had to be a Vosne from a cooler vintage like '17. Too much unintegrated oak spice with insufficient body from the cooler vintage, have never been the biggest fan of this producer. (89 pts.) - 2008 Guillaume Gilles Cornas - France, RhĂ´ne, Northern RhĂ´ne, Cornas (3/7/2025)
Unfortunately corked. NR (flawed) - 2010 Domaine Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru (2/7/2025)
Friend generously dropped a sample off from his dinner. So sharp and incisive with pure citrus and orchard fruit, my first instinct was early '00s Leflaive Chevy (which was a pretty good guess if I may say so myself, didn’t guess late '00s because I thought it was a weak period for them). Became more expressive and youthful with air, an incredibly well-balanced wine. (94 pts.)
