TNs: Sunday at TriBeCa Grill

WINE TALK
1

A thoroughly mediocre meal at Tribeca Grill, where they actually enforced the “1 bottle for 2 people” free corkage policy despite a stone empty restaurant:

2012 PYCM St. Aubin 1er “En Remilly” - Disappointing. Less concentration than 2010 and 2011 vintages of same. Good acid, but not much going on other than a good whack of charry oak. Lemony. Simple. Not bad, but far below the established standard of the producer and vineyard - I’ve had plenty of terrific wines from this vineyard.

1989 Jadot Nuits 1er “Boudots” - My easy WOTN. A bit muted on the nose - tart cherry and whiffs of spice - but a gorgeous palate, resolved, rich, ripe, concentrated - just tons of delicious pinot fruit with a silky texture. Infinitely better than last week’s 1990 Grivot Boudot. This bottle was far more Boudots than Nuits. Excellent, drinking beautifully.

2011 Fourrier Gevrey 1er “Cherbaudes” - What went wrong here? Odd mirepoix like greenness underpins candied, bubble gum / jolly rancher red fruit. Like a mediocre Sonoma Coast pinot. Very new world, in a " new wave producer" sort of way. Not undrinkable, but not pleasant, either. Opened well in advance to dissipate reduction.

1995 Calon Segur - Very bretty. There seemed to be a nice wine underneath and the less brett sensitive at the table liked this, but it was very, very bretty. Flawed; I can’t imagine all bottles are this badly infected.

1978 Ridge York Creek Petite Syrah - Whoa - this is a big, powerful wine even at age 36. Black as night, licorice, garrigue and honey. Still very tannic and concentrated - not ready yet. A touch porty. Not nearly as good as a 1974 Mondavi PS drunk at you-know-where last weekend, but with some room to improve.

1997 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Spatlese Auction - Real interesting, but not that great. An odd juxtaposition of limey, medium ripe Riesling fruit with a big dollop of botrytis and a great acid backbone. Nose a touch muted. Sugar mostly digested. This is odd, interesting wine - botrytis on such a cool fruit profile - and the bottle is easily killed, but it’s quite disjointed and almost off-putting; it begs to be sweeter and riper than it is.

2

I’ve found the food to have been improving over the last few years, from downright below average to at least enjoyable if not memorable. I haven’t seen them enforce the byo policy before (typically going on Monday nights) other than no free corkage on wines currently available on their list. If this is a sign of things to come will need to scratch them for the list.

3

When we went for dinner a few weeks ago, this is what I was told when I inquired about BYO. I don’t have any issues when I know about a policy. We were 7 people with my 3 bottles, and managed to have leftovers. As you can tell, it wasn’t a Geek crowd. [wink.gif]

4

That’s good. I’d been really underwhelmed by the food the last few times I went so I haven’t been for over a year now.

5

The BYO enforcement was particularly infuriating because (a) we reused glasses for at least one, maybe 2 of the bottles and (b) when I offered the somm a taste of the Boudots, he replied “oh, I’ve been tasting all the wine already to make sure they are OK.” Grumble grumble grumble.

6

It’s been more than a year since my last dinner at Tribeca Grill. Also underwhelmed by the food the last couple of times.

7

Interesting etiquette question here. I understand why the somm tastes the wine when you purchase off the list – the somm wants to make sure the wine is correct before serving it, since you’re buying it from them and they have to stand behind it. But what’s the point of tasting a wine that a guest brought in? Why does the somm need to check the wine to make sure it’s ok? The restaurant isn’t standing behind it in any way.

My impressions of the wines generally match David’s. Except for the Jadot Boudots, the wines were generally pretty disappointing. I become less interested in 2011 burgundies with every one I taste.

8

We did a dinner there in December. Food was unremarkable as it usually is there but the wine service was very good. This was during the week and it was quite busy. I don’t think there were any empty tables.

9

Thanks for the notes, David, sorry to hear about the PYCM—first unhappy note about one of theirs I’ve seen in a while, but appreciate your candour in posting.

A bientot,

Mike

10

I viewed it as the somm helping himself to some of our wines. If it hadn’t been our one chance to hang out with Mr. JBS this year, I would’ve gone ballistic. As it was, it made more sense to have fun and enjoy the night.

11

Mike - PYCM is one of my favorite producers, and St. A Remilly one of my favorite vineyards; in past vintages, this wine has made me VERY happy. I’ve seen some bottle variation in PYCM so hopefully other bottles of this will be singing as they should.

12

The 2011 version of this wine is fantastic. This 2012 was not nearly as good. Unfortunately the 2012 is also about 25% more expensive.