TNs: Some weekend wines

IMPERIAL HUAI YANG DINNER - (6/2/2026)

  • 2015 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Grand Cru Ambonnay - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    100% Pinot Noir, disgorged 3 Jul 2020, 3 g/l dosage. Red-fruited but elegant and precise so I thought Savart. Lovely salinity and poise without being showy so on reveal Bereche made sense. Interestingly others guessed as something aged from the 2000s, but to me this was clearly a young grower Champagne from somewhere in the 2015–2019 window. Always a winner to me. (93 pts.)
  • 2015 Adrien Renoir Champagne Grand Cru Les Epinettes - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
    Brought for a friend. 100% Pinot Noir, disgorged Feb 2019, zero dosage but 3.5 g/l RS. Stylistically very similar to the Bereche with fresh red fruit and on the lighter side for a PN so I could see why previous notes found this underpowered, but I enjoyed the freshness of this even though it was coarser compared to the Bereche. (92 pts.)
  • 2008 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Les Alliees - France, Champagne
    100% Meunier, 3.5 g/l dosage. Quite developed with a deeper golden colour compared to the other two champagnes. Most including me guessed this to be in the mid-2000s but others went for house. However I was quite confident that this was a grower because of the high acidity. Others liked this for the slightly tertiary umami notes but I like younger iterations of this producer with greater drive and oomph. (90 pts.)
  • 2022 Oakridge Chardonnay 864 Aqueduct Block Henk Vineyard - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Opened as a backup after forgetting to bring a Barthod from the office. Tart citrus fruit wrapped in a creamy, rounded texture. Very Burgundian in feel with excellent balance and immediacy. Absolutely fantastic in terms of detail but already highly approachable, ticked every box for a white for me. (93 pts.)
  • 2022 Morgen Long Chardonnay X Omni - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley, Eola - Amity Hills
    Also opened as a backup with the Oakridge. Noticeable matchstick reduction that made it old-world in style but the distinct sweetness on the palate made this markedly new-world. Needs more time to integrate but a more rounded wine than the Walter Scott Freedom Hill from the same vintage earlier in the week. (91 pts.)
  • 2007 Domaine Marc Morey & Fils Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru En Virondot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Brought for a friend, opened in the morning for dinner. Remarkably youthful with no premox issues. Most correctly guessed this as a cooler vintage profile but 10 years younger because of the tension and slightly astringent nature (especially next to the premoxed Sauzet alongside). Lovely salinity that I always enjoy, not the most complex but a fine example of aged Burgundy that showed far younger than its age. (92 pts.)
  • 2013 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Dominated by honey and a distinct sour prune (suan mei for Chinese speakers) notes that made me suspect premox immediately and placed this as younger than my '07 Morey. Guessed '09 Pierre Morey Meursault. Think just go for post-'17s Sauzets which have been reliable in my experience.
  • 2019 Henri Germain et Fils Meursault 1er Cru Charmes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru
    Consistent with my previous experience. A touch warmer and more tropical than I expect from Germain but still enjoyable. Didn’t guess since I saw the bottle. (91 pts.)
  • 2006 Pascal Lachaux Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Grands Murs - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru
    Brought for a friend, opened in the morning. Not familiar with this plot but lighter and more acidic than expected even though it felt very much like older Lachaux, i.e., must have been quite a brute in its youth with significant oak use and earthy notes. Integrated and resolved; a textbook old-school Burgundy although lacking the complexity of top domaine examples. (92 pts.)
  • 2011 Louis Jadot Chapelle-Chambertin Domaine Louis Jadot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru
    The person who brought it noted similarities to the Lachaux, which I agreed with in terms of oak use and extraction but thought this was younger. Guessed a cooler vintage like a '13 NSG. Typical Jadot, solid but without much fireworks. (91 pts.)
  • 2013 Philippe Pacalet Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
    Noticeable brett on the nose, but with lift and a slight spritz so I went for Fourrier. But on reveal Pacalet made sense as this was definitely a little natural-leaning with some sweetness and wild strawberry notes. Drinkable but the stemmy character wasn’t my preferred style of Burgundy. (91 pts.)
  • 2018 Roagna Barolo Del Comune di Barolo - Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Very classic with pretty red fruit that was more in line with my expectations of Roagna than the disappointing 2015 Paje earlier this week. Easy guess as Roagna (but I guessed Paje) with light, strawberry-driven fruit. Always a sucker for pretty wines so this was my favourite red of the night. (93 pts.)
  • 2019 Lucien Le Moine Vougeot 1er Cru Les Petits Vougeots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Vougeot 1er Cru
    Guessed this as Vosne because of the spicy, stemmy fruit and from a warm vintage like '15 because of the overtly ripe and slightly sweet nature, Technically very well-made, but still coiled and needs more time. (91 pts.)
  • 2018 Château de Pommard Pommard Clos Marey Monge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard
    Distinctly distracting cheesy notes on the nose with sweet dark fruit but noticeable tannins; most went for Piedmont. When revealed to be Burgundy I immediately said '18 since it definitely was a vintage that didn’t show Pinot characteristics. Hard pass. (85 pts.)

CHINESE NEW YEAR GATHERING WITH HIGH-SCHOOL FRIENDS - (7/2/2026)

  • NV A. Margaine Champagne Premier Cru Brut Rosé - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
    72% Chardonnay, 28% Pinot Noir (10% still red wine). Disgorged Oct 2022, 9g/l dosage. A more immediate style compared to the Saintot alongside that was also rounder and richer in a strawberries and cream style. Well-balanced despite the high dosage, juicy raspberry and cherry fruit in a crowd-pleasing style. (90 pts.)
  • NV William Saintot Champagne Premier Cru La Roseraie - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
    Blend of 2017–2020. 76% Pinot Noir, 24% Meunier. 60% barrel, 40% stainless. Disgorged 14 June 2023, 3g/l dosage. Pretty translucent salmon pink appearance, elegant raspberry fruit in an understated and contemplative style. Enjoyed the finesse and acidic backbone of this. (91 pts.)
  • 2020 O’Leary Walker Riesling Polish Hill River - Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Polish Hill River
    Strong petroleum notes on opening and had a distracting chemical note. Improved with air as the citrus and melon fruit became more integrated and expressive. Still clearly youthful but didn’t show the same development that I expected from three years ago; without the extra gear of Grossets. (90 pts.)
  • 2023 Domaine Sylvain Pataille Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy, Bourgogne-Aligoté
    Slightly natty nose at first with some lactic notes. Good balance between ripeness and tension, but had some unexpected tropical banana fruit notes. Interesting, but was a one-glass wine for me. (90 pts.)
  • 2023 Oakridge Pinot Noir Vineyard Series Willowlake Vineyard - Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Sweet-fruited new world profile with kirsch notes. Was hoping that it would develop the lift and savoury complexity of the Henk’s Vineyard last year that reminded me of a Koji but unfortunately that didn’t materialise. Overall fairly straightforward and ho-hum. (89 pts.)
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