TNs: some Chards and reds

Notes from a wine dinner at the recently opened Prime-Cut Café in Orange. Theme was Chardonnay, and a favorite red that you’d have with beef.

2005 Dehlinger Chardonnay, Russian River Valley – citrusy nose of lemon and lime, with touch of spice and mineral. Smooth on the palate, with a slight candied citrus peel quality, nice crispness and balance of flavors to acid. Nice full finish.

2002 Domaine Bernard Morey, St. Aubin Les Charmois Premiere Cru – sweet-sour citrus nose with an odd smoky underbrush scent. The acids stood more than the fruit on the palate, with some bitterness on a soft melt-away finish. Word was this was corked, which seemed less than obvious to me. I’m not overly sensitive to TCA, plus it could have been a temperature thing, but everyone agreed SOMETHING was off here.

2006 Nickel & Nickel Chardonnay, Truchard Vnyd, Carneros – while the nose here doesn’t scream Napa, there is a fairly big blast of rich ML-like lemony custard goodness, and smoky oak in the nose. The mouthfeel seemed a bit more restrained than the nose, and the richness did seem to balance nicely with the acids. Soft almost subtle finish, and quite nice!

2007 Domaine Seguinot-Bordet Fourchame Chablis Premiere Cru – lovely nose of smoky and meaty, mineral-infused citrus with a hint of ginger. Very nice mouthfeel, refreshing acid and fruit balance and juicy if soft finish. Very nice!

2004 Hyde du Villane Chardonnay, Carneros – few of us had heard of this, so it was a nice treat. Rich and slightly ripe apple and citrusy nose, with a touch of minerality and toast. The palate was mostly front-loaded, with very tasty fruit and elegant smooth transitions throughout, and long luxurious finish. Very nice!

2004 Rhys Family Farm Pinot Noir, Santa Cruz Mtns – knowing there was a potential for Brett with this particular bottling, many of us were on our guard. Well, try as I might, I’m not sure Brett was a spoiler here, but there did seem to be something amiss. The ripe dark fruit in the nose seemed to have a light bitterness, with an underpinning of brushy, earthy notes. On the palate, it was a bit disjointed – which could be just due to the fact that it was pop-n-poured, and not decanted. Full in mouthfeel, with dark fruit flavors, and the sensation and taste of spicy cola/Dr.Pepper concentrate, and a touch of heat. I tried this on day two, and while some of the Pinot flavors did come to the forefront, so did the alcohol.

1996 Cos Labory, St. Estephe – very nice nose of red and black fruit, leather, tobacco, and toasted herbs. Initially a bit reticent in mouthfeel, though the fruit and structure were certainly there, and this did begin to open up over time. Nice and chewy on the palate, with good balance of acids to fruit, and some stern tannins through the long finish. Good claret, with a better than average nose.

1999 Ch. D’ Armailhac, Pauillac – nose of nicely ripened fruit, toast, pipe tobacco and anise. Full and rich on the palate, with a big chewy mouthfeel, tannic off-sweet fruit, and powerfully long finish. Nice stuff!

2006 Madrone Cabernet, Oak Knoll District – nose of burnished ripe fruit that seemed to carry a caramelized brown sugar note. Following though on the palate, the fruit was somewhat candied in flavor, and balanced with more fruit than acid. Long enough finish, but this was tiresome to taste.

2002 Martin Ray Cabernet, Sonoma Mountain – nose of bright fruit, carrying almost a Kool-Aid quality. Clingy mouthfeel, with some decent fruit peeking through the semi-coarse tannins, and through the long slightly astringent finish. This is the second time with this wine, and although I did like it better this time out, it still doesn’t ring my bell.

2003 Ridge Geyserville – despite the field blend here, the 76% Zinfandel is readily apparent in both nose and mouth. Nice brambly black and red fruit, good flavors and excellent balance of acid to fruit. Lengthy finish gave off some of the “old viney” notes.

2002 Pride Mtn Reserve Cabernet, Napa Valley – the first bottle emptied at the table (rather quickly too, I might add), this was typical Pride richness and fruit throughout, well balanced, and very tasty. Smooth tannins, and nice long finish. That said, this wine seemed a just a hair underfilled for what I recall Pride Cabernet Reserves to be.

2007 Overlake Cabernet, Lake Co – somewhat leafy dark fruit – not quite green, but more sage-like aromas in the nose. A little disjointed in the mouth, with the fruit seeming to roll around like a BB in a boxcar. Decent body and finish, but not a very good poster child for Lake County.

2005 Stonehedge Reserve Petite Sirah – largely monolithic dark fruit, with some licorice and toasted herb. Smooth slightly thick dark something in mouthfeel, with indefinable berry and fine grained tannins. A bit milk-shake-like in structure, yet amazingly devoid of nuance or elegance.

Thanks for getting the notes going Eric. Wide variety of styles for both the whites and reds. Favs for me were the 07 Leguinot Bordet Chablis, the 04 Hyde & de Villaine Chardonnay and the 99 d’Armailhac.

DINNER AT PRIME CUT CAFE - Prime Cut Cafe (2/18/2009)

  • 2002 Domaine Bernard Morey et Fils Saint-Aubin Les Charmois - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Saint-Aubin
    Weird the first time around. The second the weirdness seemed much closer to TCA.
  • 2004 Hyde De Villaine Chardonnay - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
    A big surprise on the evening for me, a Napa Chard with some restraint and concentration without ripeness and make up. Nose on the tight or lean side but no signs of fruitiness or butter. Nice minerally finish after a well concentrated yet not fat palate. Terrific wine for the non-Cali Chard audience and I would guess is still on the upside of its aging curve.
  • 2005 Dehlinger Chardonnay - USA, California, Sonoma County, Russian River Valley
    Lean tight and unforgiving. I had trouble coaxing much of anything from this wine that night. I would wait before peaking in again on this.
  • 2006 Nickel & Nickel Chardonnay Truchard Vineyard - USA, California, Napa Valley, Carneros
    Lemon custard expression and with a round soft structure. Not my style but this drank well in the classic fat buttery Cali Chard style without going over board.
  • 2007 Domaine Séguinot-Bordet Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru
    Tight minerally expression on day one, balanced with clean acidity. An hour of air lets the Chardonnay start expressing itself better with nice lemon custard notes. Day two brings out some banana on the nose and the palate has rounded out some yet maintains the clean minerally finish. Stupid silly bargain at $20 and has plenty of years ahead of it.


  • 1996 Château Cos Labory - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
    Pure tobacco nose. Well balanced but a bit tight and tannic. 96 Bordeaux seems to be more about potential right now.
  • 1999 Château d’Armailhac - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
    Tobacco nose with some brett. Very good concentration of fruit and tons of tannin makes this still seem young yet though drinking nicely. Has a ways to go but the brett could be worrisome for future development. I enjoyed it for its classic Bordeaux expression.
  • 2002 Martin Ray Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain - USA, California, Sonoma County, Sonoma Mountain
    Cedar and cassis with some sweet oak notes though nicely balanced. Bit soft but not overly so with the fruit being massed up front. Falls off to some raspberry tart acidity towards the finish with medium to light tannins. Could use more palate balance with the up front fruit needing to mellow out. About as good as you can do for a Cali Cab at $20 though.
  • 2002 Pride Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Chocolate. Oh and chocolate with maybe some charred coffee beans. Much like fat buttery Chards this style of Cab is getting more lost on me by the day. I can see where the thick sweet fruit will keep people from being bothered by those annoying cassis, tobacco and cedar notes that mark good Cabernet but I like those notes.
  • 2003 Ridge Geyserville - USA, California, Sonoma County
    I was looking forward to this but felt let down. The ripest Geyserville, or Ridge Zin for that matter, I have had. Nail polish on the nose was ominous. Palate very light lacking concentration and the structure you usually see with this bottle and Ridge products in general. Very ripe fruit.
  • 2004 Rhys Pinot Noir Family Farm Vineyard - USA, California, San Francisco Bay
    My first go with one of these and I see what the controversy is. The nose was filled with brett to me in the sweaty sock sort of way. The palate still seemed tight though nicely balanced but the brett is a bit much to overcome for the palate structure. Somewhere there is a Burghead who will rave.
  • 2005 Stonehedge Petite Sirah Reserve - USA, California, North Coast, Mendocino
    Very ripe with VA over the prunes. Soft and juicy with a full midpalate. Drink now if you must.
  • 2006 Madrone Knoll Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Napa Valley
    Very candy like on the nose and palate. Juicy and light built for immediate consumption.

2006 Overlake Cabernet Sauvignon - USA, California, Lake County - Greenish hot nose. Sweet and bland.
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