SINGLE-VARIETAL CHAMPAGNES - (15/4/2023)
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2017 Bérêche et Fils Champagne Premier Cru Ludes Les Beaux Regards - France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
My contribution. Disgorged Jan 2021, 3g/l dosage. Crisp, green apple fruit that I feel is Bereche’s signature. Good balance between roundness and acidity with a lovely textural mouthfeel. Quite a lot was left by the end of dinner so I guessed the others didn’t like this as much as I did. Brought the leftovers on second day for another dinner, seemed to be a crowd favourite. (93 pts.) -
2015 Adrien Renoir Champagne Grand Cru Les Montants - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
A little more open than the last time I had this, although still very youthful and tight. Deep, red-fruited nose that made me think it was a BdN. Excellent potential but still needs more time. (91 pts.) -
2008 Taittinger Champagne Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Much better than the last time that I had this. Others were leaning towards 2012 but I thought the acidity beneath the sheer, ripe citrus fruit could only have been from 2008. More tropical fruit after time in the glass which I didn’t enjoy. (92 pts.) -
2018 Jacques Lassaigne Coteaux Champenois Blanc Haut Revers du Chutat - France, Champagne, Coteaux Champenois
Brought as an extra. Don’t have much experience with still wines from Champagne so this was interesting - a Chardonnay from a warm year in champagne felt like a cool year white Burgundy. Not as strict as his champagnes with riper, more honeyed fruit that made this wine more approachable than usual. A little greenness but well-balanced nonetheless. Again judging by the level left at the end of dinner the others didn’t like it as much as I did. Brought the leftovers on second day for another dinner, seemed to be a crowd favourite. (92 pts.) -
2008 Thienot Champagne Cuvée Stanislas Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Think others liked this more than I did once it was revealed that this was a 2008. Guessed 2013 BdB with the lean, thin fruit that wasn’t integrated with the creamy texture of the wine. Coarse bubbles that I dislike in champagne. (88 pts.) -
2012 Joseph Perrier Champagne Brut Nature AH83 La Côte à Bras - France, Champagne
Not a house that I am familiar with. I thought this a 2013 BdB which was the complete opposite, since this turned out to be a BdN from a warmer vintage. The zero dosage was probably the reason that misled everybody. Toasty notes without much fruit, maybe still too tight? Pedestrian house champagne that didn’t garner much interest from me. (89 pts.) -
2016 Déhu Père & Fils Champagne Cuvée La Rue des Noyers Extra Brut - France, Champagne
Had the 2014 previous day, exact same impressions so I made the exact same guess that it was a Pinot Noir. No overt sweetness of Meunier, fresh red fruit, i.e. a carbon copy of my note on the 2014 - the consistency of the producer is quite impressive. (91 pts.) -
2018 Elise Dechannes Champagne Brut Nature “Absolue Terre” - France, Champagne
Salmon in colour with a distinctive pinkish hue. Much better than the 2017 I tried previously which was overly funky. Still tight and lean, had a cider-like quality which I find sometimes in wines made in a more natural style. Didn’t do well on the second day. (90 pts.) -
NV Bollinger Champagne PN VZ15 - France, Champagne
Thought BdN from a riper vintage like ‘06, guess Bollinger hasn’t completely solved their premature ageing issues. Agree with the previous note that this lacked freshness and length, but it did improve with air as it gained tension. Nice, round texture with an obvious brioche note. (91 pts.) -
2002 Paul Bara Champagne Grand Cru Comtesse Marie de France Bouzy - France, Champagne, Champagne Grand Cru
Placed the vintage correctly with the ripe and vibrant fruit that was typical of 2002s, but thought it was a BdB as the acidity was quite prominent still. In a good spot where the developed honeyed fruit and acidity are just about in balance, would suggest to drink this soon before it becomes more oxidative and loses its vivacity. Unanimous favourite of the night including mine. (93 pts.) -
NV Mouzon-Leroux & Fils Champagne “l’Opiniâtre” Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne
Disgorged July 2019, 2.5g/l dosage, 2014 base. A little funky on the nose but wasn’t too distracting, guessed this was a 2013 BdB based on its acidity and cut. Good but the Special Club I tried last year was marginally better. Need to check out more of this producer. (91 pts.) -
2013 Faiveley Volnay 1er Cru Santenots - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Volnay 1er Cru
Generous extra from a friend who always has to finish with a red. Correctly identified as Volnay but thought it was from a warmer vintage like 2015. Slight cola note on the nose, nice dark cherry fruit, made in an old-school style with a good amount of density, so not very new Faiveley-ish here. (90 pts.)
