The second part of a friend’s birthday celebrations after he opened a lineup of epic wines in the first round.
DIBBS’ BIRTHDAY PART 2 - (11/7/2025)
- 2013 Roses de Jeanne / Cédric Bouchard Champagne Blanc de Noirs Côte de Val Vilaine - France, Champagne
Brought as an aperitif. Initially a little lean and acidic, but put on weight beautifully with air and at a warmer temperature. Very pretty, precise orchard fruit with a round texture, seamless and at peak. My cost for this was under S$100… (94 pts.) - 2004 Domaine Jamet Côte-Rôtie Élégance - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Wow everyone including myself thought this was a Burgundy. Guessed '90s Gevrey because of the savoury, meaty notes but when revealed to be a 500ml I got to the producer and guessed a cool vintage like '04 or '06. As usual with Jamet, such classy and elegant dark red fruit with real depth. (94 pts.) - 1990 Château Cos d’Estournel - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Unfortunately oxidised. NR (flawed) - 1990 Domaine des Varoilles Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Bonnes Mares Grand Cru
Bottle 2 of Tastevinage bottling. Surprisingly youthful with high acidity, I thought this was a '04 or '11 Gevrey. Quite shrill so most of us were surprised that this was a '90. Not the most balanced wine. (90 pts.) - 1978 Château Latour Grand Vin - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Brought for a friend. Initially had an old wine mustiness but became more elegant and clean with air. Never reached the heights of the bottle last year because the cork taint became apparent after 2 hours into dinner. A shame. NR (flawed) - 1993 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Mazy-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru
The friend we were celebrating hoped for a Rousseau, I turned to him upon my first taste to say that he got his wish because of the sensual, ethereal palate. Got led off-course by the sweet, soft cherry fruit to be a Rayas, but the orange peel and tea-like tannins should have made me stick to Rousseau. Wonderfully fresh and textural for a top maker without hitting fifth gear. (94 pts.) - 2017 Domaine Robert Arnoux / Arnoux-Lachaux Clos Vougeot - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos Vougeot Grand Cru
My contribution, opened in the morning before dinner. I had a small taste at home so wanted this to go after the Rousseau because of the similar wildness and sweetness present. Wild, stemmy funk was a little candied and distracting at first, but this developed superb precision and clarity with air. Still too young at this stage, and I agreed with a friend who said the H-N Clos Vougeot from the same vintage was better. (93 pts.) - 2007 Joseph Drouhin Musigny - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Musigny Grand Cru
Wonderful, lifted nose with sensual, rich dark red fruit. My first instinct was '10 H-N RSV but Drouhin made perfect sense. More youthful and structured than the bottle last year, but with the prettiness that I adore in red Burgundies. Fantastic length. (95 pts.) - 1989 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline - France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Côte-Rôtie
Accidentally knew the identity of this wine before dinner. Some barnyard at first but I reassured the rest that it would blow off. Rich, seductive dark red fruit that developed some smoky bacon fat with air. A powerhouse of a wine that was an absolute treat, but the fruit faded with air to leave the tannins (from oak?) to be a little overbearing. (94 pts.) - 2006 Château Lynch-Bages - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Clearly a young left-bank from a cooler vintage, thought this was a '08 GPL or Haut-Bailly. Elegant, but not the biggest fan of chocolate or blueberry notes in wines so this was too young for me. (91 pts.) - 2011 Christophe Roumier Ruchottes-Chambertin - France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Person who brought this usually brings Dujac or Cathiard but I quickly eliminated both. Showed some stemmy spice with superb balance so I wondered if this could be a '16 DRC Ech. Was shocked that this was an '11 because it didn’t show any greenness or austerity. An iron fist in a velvet glove sort of wine that was so seamless and pure. My WOTN. (95 pts.)
